Rusty C
-
Posts
481 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by Rusty C
-
Need to find a new home for a sc.70 fs
Rusty C replied to Rusty C's topic in All Things Model Flying
Yeah I do the motorcycles and cars also so have plenty " rubbish" about a she says. Probably go for the acro I think looks a good flying thing. The sc inverted would either idle great and run utter rubbish or run well and wouldn't idle for nothing. So I just gave up on the model, hopefully I will get the engine in the air soon as it done nothing but be run on the ground lol -
Need to find a new home for a sc.70 fs
Rusty C replied to Rusty C's topic in All Things Model Flying
Thanks guys I will decide between the zlin, isport and the acro wot soon and get assembling. The AT 6 was a bit of a let down after it went together well and generaly a good quality kit, I guess it would have been fine with a 2 stroke. I am just in the process of robbing the parts from the AT 6, is its just me or is it hard to put a model down? Feels weird taking them apart but the wife would go nuts if I have more than 4 planes -
Need to find a new home for a sc.70 fs
Rusty C replied to Rusty C's topic in All Things Model Flying
I did look at the acro David, how is the quality of the kit anyway? Cheers -
Need to find a new home for a sc.70 fs
Rusty C replied to Rusty C's topic in All Things Model Flying
I couldn't get it to idle for more than 20/30 seconds when it was performing correctly, it is/was fitted to a seagul AT-6 at a sort of 8 o'clock position, near the end of my and others teather we started to point the finger at the tank position. The bulkhead was always very dirty with fuel so siphoning was a problem. The engine is running beautifully on the test bed so would like to use it in something, it might just be fine at a horizontal orientation. Thanks for the in put lads -
Need to find a new home for a sc.70 fs
Rusty C replied to Rusty C's topic in All Things Model Flying
I like the look of that z50 Steve, I have a pulse xt 25 e that i really enjoy to fly so was wanting something along that lines. That should take the 70 upright ok I'd think. Cheers -
hey guys can I get some ideas for a new airframe for an sc .70 four stroke. However the engine needs to be mounted upright as I have had heaps of greif trying to set up an inverted arrangement.
-
Hi chaps this is my first time back in a while, totally up to my eyes in work amongst other things! Just in need of some opinions today. I bought a new Irvine 40 ages ago with the intention of putting it in my first ic, in the shape of a trainer, however I came on leaps and bounds and now have a Texan with a 70 fs. I now have it looking at me screaming for a home and I can't think what to put it in. Anyone have any ideas? I fear it may be to small for anything worth talking about. Cheers
-
I used the 4s purely for the balance issue that the airframe has. rusty
-
Hey guys just wondering if anyone else had had any bother with Tjd before? My problem is that they are sending my orders out unfinished with notes on the invoice " xxxxx parts to follow" Now although I appreciate the swift order send out I would still like to see what I have paid for! I emailed them a week ago with no response so looks like I will have to call them tommorrow. rusty
-
The Aileron control when activated raises one and drops the other. Is this the order of things in real life? Yes this is the norm it generates the roll, Up aileron for a downwards motion down for upwards . Of course they need to be the correct direction. I would recommend ditching the chase view asap as you will not gain the orientation skills required, There is a time for this view at the start to understand how the aircraft works but that all really. rusty
-
The SC is still in and is sorted it took a hell of a time sort out, I still had to give up a bit on transition in order to get a rock solid idle as it is a touch lean. But Its not a problem as its just a little wobble at a stick position that is not producing any meaningful flying power. I am still not 100% convinced with it but I dont think it warrants and new more expensive motor. The aircraft itself looks and flys lovely very forgiving with now bad habits yet! rusty
-
My tank centre is at fuel inlet level maybe very slightly lower, With this and the test for syphoning I should think all is well. When I was on the test bed I was playing about with the tank lifting it way up and there was not much to be noted really, So I am hopeful that this will end well. I am determined to get this F/S and AT-6 flying on Boxing day so here's hoping. rusty
-
Well guys I ended up taking the motor out of the AT-6 and back onto the test bed, After about 30 mins with a good warm up the motor is running to its best it will now idle till the cows come home! and even with an long idle snapping the throttle open the transition is great. I am really happy its running great as I was beginning to think I was losing it, I am no guru but I am not totally idiot as I have had engines in my blood since I can remember wether it was bikes,cars or rc cars. Anyway now that I can confirm that is a good un will tipping it slightly upside down effect it much, If so how? and why? rusty
-
Stuey The run in process with the full throttle and crazy rich setting I dont agree with, 2 and half turns is way plenty at a throttle position to suit a nice lowish rpm, couple of tanks at that then a half lean to start varying the rpm from idle to half. I belive that you want to heat it as quick as you can and a slobbering rich mix will not allow this. I know that car engines are of a different make up but, when I run them in I use wrist bands to cover the head, set the throttle to idle and use the low end to meter fuel, rich on start up then I lean and richen to maintain around 100 degrees on the head button, this way it reduces the bore tightness. Your could be right that it has just not done enough yet though, I may let it run at a fast idle for while more yet before turning screw again.
-
Steve When I was setting the tappets up I was doing it in such a way that the paper could be pulled out easily so I dont think they would be far enough out to cause any bother, But I will buy some gauges soon when I next get to halfords or the likes. The engine runs fine on the glow, when its removed it dies but not instantly it more a slow death. you can almost here the blood in its throat gurgling then thats it. This Is why I was worried about the orientation of the motor sounded like it was pooling up. As for the engine age I had it running for a long time on the bench 5 8oz tanks at idle which felt like an eternity. I dont think its a mile away now but its real frustrating as the final touches seem to be really sensitive. If it does not happen soon I will need to think about either getting a different 4 stroke or putting in a 2 stroke as I want to have it air worthy for boxing day! rusty
-
Steve The idle speed just now is all that can be achieved without it spluttering to a halt, So I would think your right about it being rich. However last attempts to lean at this point resulted in no idle until the throttle was advanced further which I couldnt get my head round. when I was pinching it at WOT It was rising in rpm slightly before stopping, this I the desired effect yes? and same at low end I guess? In earlier attempts I think my problem was that I to focused on the throttle open position at idle and was adjusting the low needle to get it to run which did not work well I did check the tappets before and after its first bench run and they where well slack when I got it so tightened them up, But as I did not have any feeler gauges I use a piece of paper which I thought would be near as damn it. Any thoughts here? I am holiday as of tomorrow so I will try again weather permiting
-
David I have setup it up on the throttle cut button. But with the stick right back the barrel its about 2mm open, but to get it to idle I have to trim up and I think the barrel is now open around 3mm maybe a touch more. This seems too much to me after years of 2 stroke car tuning, But this four stroke game is beating me at the momment rusty
-
Hey guys I would like to leave the high alone also as it is good where it is using said pinch test and nose up attitude. Steve I think it is stiil to fast at idle as the airframe is creeping down the strip which is not even close to its normal short cut. Would this suggest a rich low end with the barrel open to far to compensate for the lak of air? thoughts on that would be great. I am still not happy to put her into the air yet I want to make sure I get the best chance of getting her back, I have only simulated dead sticks with my pulse 25 E and it glides forever Something the AT-6 will not I guess.
-
One of the worst things I have ever had to go through was a long haul to chch New Zealand, My god was that horrible! I was sitting at the wings both ways and was going mad with the engine noise 26 hours each way!, Sayin that dont know what I would be like if they went silent at 30,000 rusty
-
Steve I dont have a tacho I have just been doing it by ear and feel, I would guess its idle is around 2500 rpm. To which you are going to tell me to get a tacho right? Its turning a 13x6 apc I have others to try if need be though. Yeah it does seem to splutter after a long idle and sometimes dies on real quick application of throttle. Are you saying rich low end or high, Or even both? rusty
-
Well I got some success today the engine seems to run well the air bubbles have gone I am not sure where the problem was cured but who cares. Should I always expect the motor to splutter and die after a long idle say 3 mins or so, I am not really sure what I am to expect of the engine thats all. overall its a million percent better that before, still a little bit lumpy on the transition but I am scared to touch any more as its ok when its been out of idle for a few seconds. rusty
-
YakMad Yes you are spot on bud Thats what happened on the first installation, I noticed fuel bubbling out the seal, Which was replaced and I also put an extra one round the outside much better. Steve I think your on the right track here, How long should I be waiting before removing the glow driver? I was not leaving it on to long as my one is on its way out! so I have just took delivery of a new much big capacity along with my new OS F As for the "factory settings" is this where to start or should I go back to the fuel tube and blowing into it way? as they seem to be a good bit apart ie air flow. Sorry about the pics I was not aware of the ill effects that caused Rusty Oh and yes I was pretty brave for bringing the model into the bed room, But she had pitty on me as the conservatory was freezing !! and thats where the camera lives anyway It wont happen much I bet
-
Hey Steve Yeah I have ordered another OS F just in case my one has given up. I have checked for holes and leaks till i was blue in the face so I am nearly sure its good. But you may have a point about the warming of the motor, I was letting it sit to warm but not as long as you suggest, As I said in another post it was around zero degrees so it possible it was still way to cold. And yes it will round with the glow driver on, Which made me think to was rich but when leaning out not much was happening then confusion took over and i was lost. Now that I am back at the factory settings I cant see how I can go wrong. Will update you's tomorrow. rusty
-
Just a few pics of the instal guys, You can see the bit of foam at rear of tank to stop it moving back and fourth I also trimmed down the tank bulk head piece and inserted more foam in ( not seen here) You will also note the fuel feed line rising up over the battery mount, where as before it came straight out to the carb ie between the mount . rusty Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 13/12/2012 08:51:59
-
