Robert Bylin

Hi there,   Here is one more Puma video   Puma video       and some flying pictures   Forum pictures   / Robert       Edited By Robert Bylin on 11/07/2009 17:44:24

Hi there,   Here is one more Puma video   Puma video       and some flying pictures   Forum pictures    

Hi Dennis! I am glad you like the Firecracker. No I haven’t loads of patience so, for that reason I prefer this fast and easy build method. Here is another build log, perhaps things goes clearer. And here you find the video. / Robert

And here is same more video. Puma 3  Puma 4 Puma 5 Puma 6 / Robert

I have negotiate with Eje and he said 9.95£ +shipping to UK for the foamkit, fuselage and wing. Here is a few Puma videos, Eje is the pilot.    / Robert

Thank you, Matthew. A friend of mine have cut out the wing. I think you should give it a try, you will not regret. / Robert 

This is picture of my Puma.  It´s a aerobatic slope soarer built in green foam and designed by Mike White. The plan is from the Silentflyer issue 2 1999. Take a look in my Swedish build log. If anyone is interested in a plan and article just send me a mail. / Robert 

This i my Fling Wing Take a look in my Swedish build log. / Robert

Yes please

Hi Andy. I have built a Limit Ex in Depron. Here is a build thread. Here you can see the video / Robert

Thank you

Hi! This is the kind of depron plane I want to see more of in the RCM&E Mag.  Take a look in my Swedish build log.  Part 1. Part 2. / Robert

Hi Chris! Check your e-mail adress or send me a e-mail. / Robert

Hi Chris! If you send me a e-mail a can send you a copy of the mag. Have you miss the videolink in my last post, here it is again. Chris say: Im guessing you used a 3s lipo in your model, what amp Esc was that with? You find the answer in the build thread, look at the pictures. / Robert

Hi Chris! Keep it light and you can use a small outrunner. In my Tucano 30” i have a 29 gram motor with a kv 1550.    You can see the performance in this video[u]http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/KQJC36NXCZ4664CL[/u] And here is the build tread[u]http://www.svensktmodellflyg.se/forum1.asp?viewmode=1&msgid=105864&page=&CurrentMainTopic=11[/u] / Robert

 When the plastic is ”baked” , put the frame on a firm surface and  push until you see the tap on the other side. If you should fail you just put it back into the oven again and start over. One tip is to lay a kitchen chair on the side and place the frame over one of the legs. Tip 2, drill a hole in the bottom of the tap and glue on a pin to get something to hold on to.        Now create a new bottom part to have something to attach the Canopy on.         Paint the inside with Latexpaint in optional color and glue it on. I used water based glue.To attach the Canopy to the plane I used dowels in the front.        This is the bottom part with support joggles and a broken razor blade. Magnets are used to attach the blade.Good Luck with your Canopy manufactur. /Robert  

 Mix the plaster and put it into the mold. After a couple of hours you can remove the mold and you have your self a “big chunk of plaster”. I allowed my “chunk” to dry for 3 days.After that you can start working on the “chunk” with a saw, surform or sandpaper.        After grinding and fitting, grinding and fitting it can result in something like this. Plaster is easy to grind and you will rapidly see the shape developing.When you are happy with the shape, apply twice with boat varnish on the tap to make it more sustainable. When the varnish has dried, apply one or two layers of car wax on the tap.      The next feature is to create the frame to attach the plastic seal. Imprint the hole by the using the plug. Make the hole approximately one  cm bigger than the tap for getting a tight frame.  Chamfer the edges, approximately one cm. Paint the chamfered edges to reduce friction towards the plastic.        Staple the plastic with a stapling machine or similar. This plastic is a simple cover from a plastic box that I took from the neighbor.If the plastic has big swells only it’s to the advantage, due to that you will be able to get more material down through the hole when pushing it.Put the frame in the oven at 200 degrees C for 10 minutes. Leave the plug outside the oven. Keep it under observation.