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Posts posted by David Ovenden
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Like Jon I too had an Acrowot powered with an OS 48 fourstroke. It flew fine. Not overpowered but flew perfectly well. So yours with an FS52 should work fine too. Why not try it out as it is before buying a new engine?
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All sorted as Steve Webb had the parts needed on stock to repair the existing carburettor.
So no need for a replacement carb.
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I did send an emai to Steve Webb but thought I'd check on here too in case anyone had something suitable. If no joy I will try making up/adapting some parts to suit.
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Anyone have a working Enya twin-needle carb for a .45 engine available for sale? I am looking for one with 7.5mm bore and 13mm diameter crankcase mounting. It is to fit to an Enya 45CX engine, though the same carb is used on various 40-50 size Enya engines. (Though not all have the same mounting dimensions) I don't mind if it is the angled safety needle version on the standard in-line needle type.
Thanks for looking.
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On 04/01/2022 at 09:45, David Davis said:
Once upon a time OS produced the OS52 fourstroke. Now they produce the OS FS 56 Alpha.
Did they ever produce a fourstroke engine with a cubic capacity between these two or is my memory slipping?
Maybe you are thinking of the Enya 53-4C engine?
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According to this site the distinction between hardwood and softwood is to do with the type of seed the tree produces.
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1 hour ago, Tony Harrison 2 said:
Hi David, and thanks - sorry for my belated reply but I've only just seen your helpful comment! I couldn't be bothered to drive ten miles to the shop, then wait an indefinite period for a replacement to arrive - so I epoxied it together again. It works fine, very useful.
Best, Tony
In the circumstances I would have done the same Tony
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9 hours ago, Cuban8 said:
I don't use plastic engine mounts of the SLEC type or similar these days, but back in the day I drilled and tapped the appropriate thread into the mount, secured the engine with cap head screws and added a self locking nut to the remaining exposed thread on the underside for belt and braces. Never ever had a fixing loosen off. Just nip up the screws securely and resist the temptation to lean on them.
I'm with Cuban8 on this. Tap the plastic mount; use cap head socket screws and add a locknut. Makes for a proper job.
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I did manage to download the manual from MattyB's link. It's OK but not great as the way it was scanned cuts through the text in places and ends up with text "flowing" onto the next sheet. It's all there, but not very tidy.
I think OS printed the instructions on a large folded sheet so it's just not easy to scan onto A4 sheets .
I tried asking OS but they sent me a link to the FS200 manual!
BTW, sceptreflight.com have 3 different test reports on the FS20.
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5 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:
Got some 9 x 6 and 10 x 6 props if you want them David,,,
http://sceptreflight.com/Model Engine Tests/OS FS-20 (3).html
Cheers Paul,
I think I'm OK, but will ask if my stock props don't work .
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Thanks Matty. Google is obviously working better for you than it did for me!! Have a Happy Christmas.
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I wonder if anyone has a pdf. version of the manual that came with the OS FS20 four stroke engine they would be prepared to share?
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2 hours ago, Tim Hooper said:
I'm a fan of the stepped drill.
However, I'm aware that the initial tip is going to get all the wear, no matter what size of hole you're aiming for. For this reason I like to drill a pilot hole with a conventional bit first.
Tim
Tim, yes I tend to do exactly that myself. Drill a pilot hole first.
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38 minutes ago, Allan Bennett said:
Interesting, I'd never heard of a stepped drill bit until this post. Apart from avoiding the hassle of changing bits for different size holes, is there any other advantage over conventional single-size bits? A disadvantage would seem to me to be when the size you use most wears out you have to replace the whole bit, at a much greater cost than a single-size bit.
I am still using my original HSS step drill (made by Halls of Sheffield) that I bought 35 years ago. Its never been sharpened an is still working well. I also recently picked up a cheap one from LIDL and that works fine too!
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I find them very useful for making larger diameter holes in thin material. As Ace says, you can drill from both sides for thicker material. I also find they are good for starting a nice smooth round hole (that you can drill deeper with a standard drill bit once the hole is neatly started). Avoids splintering the wood with a big drill when you start drilling a larger size hole.
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Tony,
Looking at the photo I believe the blade holder (vertical part) should be rigidly attached to the horizontal (adjustable sliding) part. You could glue it but I would contact the shop for a replacement item.
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Mark, any more progress with the Cougar?
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15 hours ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:
Oh come on David you don't have to put the rest of us at shame, we sleep in the morning,
we all arrived at 14h, around 8 of us at 10°C, and most of us flew,,,,
My fault if its cold in the morning. And the sun low in the sky too. Should be sensible like the rest of you!
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12 minutes ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:
My work bench often ends up a mess simply due to lack of space and the fact that i always seem to need every tool i own. Having too many jobs on the go is not helpful either.
A messy workbench is the sign of a genius at work!
Jon I'm with you on fixing that wing. It's annoying to do, but very satisfying when you can save a wing (or fuselage) like that . Once done it will be better and stronger than new. Good luck with the rebuild.
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9 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:
No picture but + 12°C and no wind here yesterday, and a few flights with my Tiger Moth accompanied by another members one.
Yes a very nice afternoon. The 2 Tiger Moths looked great flying together. Paul's 4-stroke powered one sounded much nicer than the other 2-stroke version though.
I managed 4 good flights with my new Black Horse Mohawk . So all in all a very pleasant time.
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Had the opportunity to fly the Mohawk again yesterday. It is much better with the 10x5 props (replacing the 9x5 which didn't load the motors enough) In spite of the new set-up drawing more Amps at full throttle, 9 minute flights still left over 50% in the battery (3700mah 4s) I assume as I could fly most of the time at lower throttle setting.
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53 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:
It was 11°C at our model field yesterday but still 9 members and a youngsters Mother turned up to fly, 0 wind
till I got my Tiger Moth up into the yonder grey sky, I had to try out my OS .61fs that I got second hand for 65€ :afro: it turned out 5 minutes later to be a big mistake, 30+ klm/h cross wind blew up, and as the main runway is S/N across the field is only 41 metres of uncut ( the North end ) grass and mole hills, the club members were huddled together like penguins and waited for the 'British' mouthy pilot to finally crash a plane so that they could celebrateFor you David, Thierry flew his 3d printed 1.4m plane into the fence,,,he didn't see it,,,?
Well, in his de-fence he dosen't often crash coming from that direction! He just needs more practice.
Curtis Condor biplane twin
in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Posted
I have finally got round to starting the repairs on the Condor model. I have sripped out the servos from the tail and removed any excess weight I could from the rear of the fuselage. I have largely rebuilt the front fuselage structure and need to think about where to relocate the servos. I want to squeeze the servos and ESC right at the front of the fuselage. l wonder how much weight I will actually be able to lose? Will the model fly any better afterwards? Only one way to find out.