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David Ovenden

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Posts posted by David Ovenden

  1. Hi had one of these 115s that suffered from a semi- seized big end. I had to replace the conrod and clean and polish up the wrist pin on the crankshaft. The new type conrod has a slot to allow lubrication of the big end rather than a single small hole on the original. Might be worth checking this on the poor running engine?

    The 115 seems to have very high compression and mine needed a lot of running in but is now a very powerful for its size.

    Another thought. When you swapped carbs did you change the inlet tube as well or just the carb? Is it possible that the O ring seal is missing from the inlet tube causing air leaks?

    Final thought. Could one of the cam followers be sticking in the cam housing causing slow or inhibited pushrod movement and affecting valve opening/closing and hence poor running?

    Edited By David Ovenden on 03/11/2015 22:57:05

    Edited By David Ovenden on 03/11/2015 23:01:33

  2. Is it just me? Having looked at my copy, I am frustrated that many of the photos don't have captions. Some aren't really explained in the accompanying text either. This seems a shame to me. Are the photos there to inform the article or just to fill up space? I'm left asking who are the people and what are the models and what is the purpose of the photo?

  3. I have a Black Horse Wilga kit bought over a year ago at the Nats. Now I get round to building it I have found it has missing parts - the moulded U/C to fuselage fairings (part 2a). I have emailed Ripmax and Black Horse direct with absolutely no response. Has anyone had any success in getting replacement parts for Black Horse models. If so, how?

  4. Well, I have both med and large Piper super cubs (68" span and a 106" They both fly very well. They both take the same time to assemble at the field. One cost more than the other,. However, the large model looks more realistic in the air, handles wind much better, feels more "locked in" than the smaller one and is easier to land well.

    As has been said earlier, the smaller one turns faster and is generally more nimble. So do you want scale impact or agility? I enjoy both models but the bigger one does fly more realistically.

    So the answer to the question probably depends on what we want from our model flying experiences. Fun & thrills; full-size like realism; gentle relaxation; aerobatic precision; to be the centre of attention; to fly indoors; or something else. It will be a different answer for each person I guess.

  5. Another vote for Prosynth fuel. I use 10% in all my engines from SC30 up to Saito 170 radial, and have done for 10 years. Keeps for ages and doesn't go off (found some 4 years old and it worked fine.) It doesn't gum up the engine and it just works - every time.

  6. Yes, the Saito 170 radial fits in easily with room to spare. Mine also has a Keleo radial ring exhaust that fits inside the cowl. It also makes it sound great, especially at low throttle when coasting in to land.

    When I got mine the YT kit was not available. I am happy with the Black Horse kit. I have replaced the wheels with 4" Kavan ones though.

    Edited By David Ovenden on 12/09/2015 21:12:42

    Edited By David Ovenden on 12/09/2015 21:14:29

  7. Well I enjoyed it. Full size Spitfire and great flyby by the Dutch B25. TJD guys and the Lacaster were good as were the Horizon Team. Some good jets too. I left early (3.30) but had felt I'd had a decent day. Got a couple of bergains whilst I was there.

    Also looked in on the lorry and truck tent. One of the chaps driving a large RC truck was responsible for getting me in model planes. He used to fly free flight power from a field down the road from where I lived as a boy. Small world.

    Edited By David Ovenden on 12/09/2015 20:57:01

  8. I have one I am putting together at the moment. Quality seems good. Mine will have a Saito 170 radial up front, but this has meant adding an extension to the front former to suit the engine. (The rear mounting points on the Saito came below the bottom of the former)

  9. With the increasing number of quads etc I wondered how local clubs are responding. Do any of your clubs have protocols for mixed fixed-wing & multi-rotor flying? Do they have separate slots or does mixed flying work? Do you have discrete areas for the 2 disciplines? Do multi-rotors use the runway to start and finish flights? Does the BMFA have guidelines for this?

  10. I scrapped the ridiculously heavy Volantex motor that came with mine and fitted a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2830-920kv motor which weighs only 57g instead of 140g. That sorted out the nose heavy problem. I am using the same prop that came with the model and 1000mah cells. The model is so much lighter as a result and flys much better too with balance at the correct place

  11. Thanks for all the ideas. In the end I decided to start again. I've removed all the enamel paint from the cowl in question and have repainted with car spray paint and then used Aerokote 2-part fuel proofer for a all-round tough finish.

  12. What can I use over Humbrol enamel paint that is really Fuelproof (against 15% Nitro fuel) and won't attack the paint?

    Also where can I buy 4mm thick sheet Dural /H15/ AU4G grade aluminium for a U/C? Need a piece 700 x 80mm!!

  13. I ordered goods (radio item NOT lipos)l from the International warehouse on 20th May. Shipped on 2ist May and still not arrived in the UK (according to tracking) on 11th JULY! That's over 50 days for airmail. - Claimed from Paypal and just been refunded. Still no parcel. Obviously a real problem at the moment.

    Edited By David Ovenden on 11/07/2014 21:08:50

  14. Thanks Tim and Cymaz.

    It seems to me I need to get a nut inside the fuselage, which is pretty impossible to do. However, if the hole in the kit is not tapped, then I will have to try to find a way to do just that. Access is blocked by a former. Might be easier to cut away some of the covering underneath so I can get some fingers in there!! Then replace the covering after the nut is done up.

    David

    ps

    How did the Moth fly?

  15. I'm not sure if this is the appropriate forum to post this; but with so many scale bods reading it it seemed worth a shot!

    I have a Flying Legends 1/4 scale Gypsy Moth kit I'm assembling. The instruction book is pretty poor as it does not give you the info you need (there's a new thing for an ARTF!)

    I would like to clarify how the bottom wing fixes to the fuselage. The model has folding wings and obviously the rear spar attachment point on the wing  bolts to the fuselage with the bolt acting as the hinge. So it's a pretty important mounting.There is a pre-drilled hole on the bottom of the fuselage in the "right place" to line up with the wing spar hole, but the bolt drops straight in.  There is no tapped hole (or way to get a nut on from behind. None of the photos show a close up and the instructions don't even mention it. Is my kit faulty (should it have a blind nut or tapped hole in the fuselage - or am I missing something obvious?

    Any advice from someone who has a model would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Edited By David Ovenden on 03/06/2014 08:36:24

    Edited By David Ovenden on 03/06/2014 08:37:43

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