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chuck erdahl

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  1. chuck erdahl
    chuck erdahl joined the community
  2. chuck erdahl
    Come on mate, you can do it The blue core foam way is the easiest and fastest. Some moldies don't have replacement wings like the Phoon does so its a good skill to have. Good luck either way!
  3. chuck erdahl
    1. Piece everything back together from the inside and work out and us CA to re glue broken wood and skin. 2.Leave an opening on the LE and inject a little insulation foam inside the wing to strengthen it. Just use small amounts because it EXPANDS a lot. Use Bondo Ultimate to fill in gaps and holes on the outside. Shape it as much as possible while wet. 3. Sand it to shape. Glass it with 6oz fiberglass. Sand it and paint it. O R Cut out the damaged chunk of wing completely and replace it with a piece of blue core foam. Epoxy it on and shape it with sandpaper and glass over it.
  4. chuck erdahl
    Posted by chuck erdahl on 05/07/2013 17:17:16: Jonathan Here's a pict of the repair. Not pretty, but strong as new and can be glassed and painted, if desired. Question: is yours cracked so badly that the fuse flexes there? Good luck.
  5. chuck erdahl
    My poor Typhoon had a beautiful landing at Point Fermin in Los Angeles but unfortunately came down on the only rock in 50', cracking the fuse just aft of the wing
  6. chuck erdahl
    I tried a product called Great Foam to fill and strengthen a leading edge ding. It's your basic spray in insulation foam and it expands about 3 to 1. After it hardends, you can shape it and glass over it. It's good for big dings, but your expanding epoxy looks good as well. I think it would be more convenient for Dings that you don't want to glass up. Very nice. By the way, my Picts won't download to the site from my iPhone so I'll try again later my pc.
  7. chuck erdahl
    Jonathan Here's a pict of the repair. Not pretty, but strong as new and can be glassed and painted, if desired. Question: is yours cracked so badly that the fuse flexes there? Good luck.
  8. chuck erdahl

    Carbon tow repair

    chuck erdahl posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Carbon tow repair
  9. chuck erdahl
    I had some minor cracking in the same spot recently: right behind the wing saddle My fuse was still tight and connected so I lightly pulled the seams even by drilling a 1/16" hole in a seam that one side had dropped a little. I put in a piece of piano wire with a short bend and pulled the lower side back to even. Then I lightly sanded the damaged area. I put a piece of carbon tow about 2"s long over the crack front to back, and another one on the opposite side, spreading them gently apart to make them as flat as possible. Then wet with 30 minute epoxy and put wax paper over the wet carbon then taped it down snug. It came out looking like I carbon socked it and is REALLY strong with no flex. The fuse will come apart otherwise as this area gets a lot of loading. If you are concerned about the look of it, sand down the repair a bit and glass over it, then prime and paint it. Personally speaking I think the carbon doesn't look too bad and that area is as strong as new.
  10. chuck erdahl
    I hated those clevises that came with my Typhoon. I through them in the junk box and used 2-56 threaded rods and Sullivan Gold clevises. The are well made and won't break in the flight or during landing with the flaps. I love flying the Typhoon! Great sloper.
  11. chuck erdahl
    Posted by Hydeflyer on 05/02/2013 16:16:45: I've finally finished the Typhoon fit out. What a job it was for a relative novice where mouldies are concerned! Several issues as follows: The supplied M2 clevises are too long, even with a minimal length of threaded M2 rod and the clevises back to back. For the flaps I had to cut about 2mm off the threaded tube and use only the threaded portion of rod, about 20mm long. In any case only 6 clevis are supplied and with 2 for each wing servo and 2 for the fuz, there aren't enough. So I ended up using a cheap and cheerful shorter plastic clevis to connect to the control horn. Try as I might I couldn't then get free movement of the push rod without filing out a little bit of the T/E wing rib. Ouch! The metal clevis' then have to be ground into an arc on the lower surface to clear the servo hub to get sufficient travel for (almost) 90 deg flap. Here's a few piccies. Apologies for quality.. done with the mobile phone!
  12. chuck erdahl
    I really like the Spektrum 6200 receiver fits in my Typhoon. Besides being compact, the servo leads plug on the front instead of the ends. I was able to bring in the leads through a "hatch" in the deck and keep all the messy wires down below and out of sight Edited By chuck erdahl on 11/08/2012 02:13:47
  13. chuck erdahl

    chuck erdahl posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  14. chuck erdahl

    chuck erdahl posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  15. chuck erdahl

    chuck erdahl posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. chuck erdahl

    chuck erdahl posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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