Maarten Werner
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Thank you for your reply Malcolm, and thanks for writing the excellent book on the T14SG. It made switching from Graupner to Futaba a breeze. I agree that a handful of posts is insignificant considering the amount of users. The interesting thing is that I can only find reports from Germany on RC-network and the Futaba Forum concerning Fasst LBT. Some users have switched back to V 4.0 to eliminate LBT. Apparantly this is no issue in the UK. Best regards and safe flying, Maarten
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Hi Gents, on several German forums there are incidents being mentioned regarding the Fasst LBT protocol. Fasst LBT is supposed to be not as reliable as Fasst without LBT. Any thoughts on this? Regards, Maarten
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BTW my next project will be a PSS Brewster Buffalo in 1/6 th scale... Regards, Maarten
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Hello Gents, A couple of months back I build a Fairey Fulmar from the Alan Hulme plan. I am posting this information for reference and to stimulate the build of this fine model. I followed the plan but made a lost mould fiberglas fuse instead of a built up fuse. The wing section is made up of a thick root section and a Clark Y tip section with a bit of washout. I checked the no name root section on the plan which appears to be a NACA 4415 so I used that. For the tip I went for a Clark Y 11%. To be honest I was a bit unsure about the wing design, a far cry from the thinner sections that I like to use for PSS. The worry was needless as the Fulmar flies excellent and will penetrate into any wind. Inverted performance is of course mediocre but the plane flies very well indeed. The design is food for thought for future projects... I strongly recommend buiding this model! Regards, Maarten Edited By Maarten Werner on 06/05/2017 08:53:27 Edited By Maarten Werner on 06/05/2017 09:02:15 Edited By Maarten Werner on 06/05/2017 09:02:35
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i Posted by Chris Barlow on 29/01/2017 16:37:58: "...finishing with a layer of splodge..." Love it. What a technical term! Splooge is of course a formal technical term for a mixture of resin / microballoons It is also used for another substance but we will not mention that here.....
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Posted by Phil Cooke on 29/01/2017 10:53:36: Can you explain to me how you datum and attach the fins and tail to the hollow, thin walled fus? Sure On all my builds I like to do the wing first so I can make the fuse to fit the wing with a tight wingseat. With the wing attached to the fuse I jig up the wing to zero-zero incidence. Next I mark the incidence for the horizontal and cut out slots for the horizontal. After aligning the horizontal it is fixed provisionally with ca. Next I make fillets from resin/ microballoons to fix it permanently, Same thing for the vertical, of course proper alignment is very important. On this build I set up a light balsa lower vertical and gave it 2 layers of medium glass. Next I made heavy fillets from medium glass and resin, doing 3 to 4 layers, finishing with a layer of splooge and sanding. This made the lower vertical essentially part of the fuselage. Should be strong enough. Maarten
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Thanks Phil, with the layup that I use there are no formers needed.. Just a hollow fuse that is plenty strong.
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Thanks for the suggestion but Velcro does not seem like a particularly elegant solution. Also I would not like to lose the lower fin in flight.... My LZ is fairly soft so it should be OK since I used quite a bit of fiberglass on the lower fin. I wasn't too worried about the weight because of the long nose. Hardly any nose weight was needed. Regards, Maarten
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Hi Harry, the wing is covered with Solartex. The finish on the fuse is matching acryl carpaint with a final clearcoat. The dark earth camouflage on the wing is also carpaint. It works well over Solartex without any primer. The lower vertical is fiberglassed and should be pretty strong Regards, Maarten
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Thanks guys. Yes it's a PSS model. Took me about 5 weeks Now it's time to decide what to build next.....
