Dave Bond 2

Hello, How does everyone transfer the plan onto the balsa before cutting out the shape. I know there are many ways this could be done, but was wondering what the most common time saving way of doing this is? Trace it, scribble on back and re trace Photo copy an iron on back hoping toner will re transfer Photo copy cut out and stick to balsa These are the few I have come up with, what does everyone else do?

Hi All, Its getting to that time of year again. Does anyone have any novel ideas for gifts for fellow modelers? This should be easy ..... but it is not. I was wondering if you have received any gifts that do not break the bank that you have been very happy with? I hope others will enjoy this thread too.

Hi All, Looking at getting a gift subscription, and I have a few questions I was hoping others might be able to answer. Once you select your start issue and give the recipients address. Is the first thing to pop through their door the first magazine? I am not wanting to blow the surprise before the day, with extra correspondence going through the door. In addition the free gift, how long does this take to get processed?

Just been looking around, this also certainly is not a cheaper option by a long way

Thanks for all the replies it might not get me far in reality but has been interesting to hear what people have to say.   So I was planning: 2x 11.1v 2600mah packs in parallel will give you 11.1v and 5200mah capacity. The original specified motor is 580RPM per volt so max RPM on a 4 cell pack of 8584RPM So a three cell pack needs a motor of about 773 RPM per volt, but at similar wattage 1500 the speed controller is getting rather large.   If I have gone through this I think I see the limitations and why 4 cell packs are needed as current and rpm per volt gets to be a number that does not seem a standard motor.   Do you all agree? Or am I missing something?   Edited By Dave Bond 2 on 16/10/2015 12:50:45

Hi All, Part of this question is out of interest to try and figure out how to calculate the power train of any model, as it all seems a little black magic. The other half of the question is for the Mosquito model in the RCM&E special requires a power setup that in my case would mean a set of batteries that can only be used in this model. So keeping the motors the same the batteries are 4 cell 5000mAh LiPo packs. If there was enough room and I am yet to figure this out but looks promising. If I was to use 2x 3 cell 2600mAh packs per motor, the voltage would be higher at 6 cell rather than the specified 4 cell, and the overall capacity would be about right. But could I really do this? The slight increase in weight I do not think would be significant. I assume the difference would be the motor would have a higher RPM? This has the advantage for me of using packs that I can use in other models rather than having dedicated packs for this model. Could someone help put these thoughts into a coherent plan of if it would work and if not why.

Thanks all, I will give it a go. There are some very good points here.

Hello all, For the B certificate I see the requirement for rolling the model twice in both directions without pause in the middle. I am flying a Cougar 2000 and though I appreciate that the B certificate is a measure of skill. I am finding rolling twice maintaining altitude much harder than I feel it should be. I see other people flying models and do not seem to be fighting their model half as much. I can fly in level flight and inverted with very minimal correction using elevator. When trying to roll I always seem to be loosing altitude at the point of entry into the second roll. The cougar has a very thin sectioned fuselage, so at 90 deg I wonder if as there is no lift from the wings and minimal resistance from the fus I am loosing altitude at the four times the model is in this attitude. So I am wondering what is the trick in getting this model to preform the roll nicely.

HSS can be ground on normal black wheels. In terms of heating cool the part in water as you go and take it slow. Don't let it get to the temperature where it discolours. White wheels are very soft and though will work they wear more quickly. My other hobby is model engineering where I have made a few locos from scratch. I grind and sharpen lathe tools and drills made from HSS all the time with black wheels. No problem at all.

Futaba 6exa the basic computer one that looks to be identical to the basic 2.4GHz current one but with different modulator stage. As additional Rx's are quite expensive still for Futaba, it seems silly to keep buying into 35Mhz where as the world seems to have moved on.

Posted by Dave Bond 2 on 17/04/2015 11:29:14: As mentioned on a previous thread I am just getting back into the hobby after 8 years. 2.4G was just coming in then, now it is the standard. When I was flying everyone wanted a Futaba transmitter, now looking spektrum seem to have the market share. Certainly a lot of pictures on this forum have one in the background. I realise both are a good option, but if I was to hang up my 57MHz Futaba what would I go for? Specktrum seems good value, but a part of me likes the idea of going with what I know. Ahh you spotted my mistake I do mean 35Mhz, I cannot find the edit post to correct it.

As mentioned on a previous thread I am just getting back into the hobby after 8 years. 2.4G was just coming in then, now it is the standard. When I was flying everyone wanted a Futaba transmitter, now looking spektrum seem to have the market share. Certainly a lot of pictures on this forum have one in the background. I realise both are a good option, but if I was to hang up my 57MHz Futaba what would I go for? Specktrum seems good value, but a part of me likes the idea of going with what I know.

Do you treat it like balsa then in terms of sanding and shaping? Or do you try and bend the sheets to maintain the surface, or even use fillers? It looks like most of the models are painted, what do you use?

Hello All, I am just getting back into the hobby after a break for 8 years. I see much has changed. I am quite interested to see people building traditional balsa models from depron. I am thinking this is a fantastic way to build electric models that do not look like shock flyers. Are there any drawbacks with this? Do you need to change the model design from the published plan? I only see stiffness being a problem, is it really? Also I would imagine this is overcome with carbon fibre rod. Is this how it is done? I have seen the thread on the depron spitfire and lancaster, I feel quite inspired to do this with other smaller models I have seen that have been built in balsa.