Old_Robin

Fabulous, Just fabulous....

Stephen.. thanks but I was after seeing Gerry's plane, not one of my pictures. Old_Robin I think Gerry has not put the picture into a blog forum album first, which is what I had to do.... Edited By Old_Robin on 02/01/2017 15:42:00

Sadly no. Regards Robin

Gerry. Cannot see and image or video....

With elevons, adding differential is effectively adding up or down elevator to the aileron input, so I would not advise it. Possibly more disciplined flying, or add an extra channel and fit a rudder servo.... Robin

Have a look at a Cutlass...... http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=107414&p=3#2092268 Robin

Manny, I noticed a very similar problem. I diagnosed it as over-banking in turns. With the long nose it seems it tucks under suddenly and you lose control. Reduced banking solved it for me... Old_Robin

While quite a good idea, the fun of fitting leading and trailing edges to this wing makes me wince. I think a thick and strong base layer to your bench with a soft pin-surface is still the best bet, with spacer blocks for the LE and TE and even the ends of the spars if you want washout. I am not a believer in plate glass and I think significant minor warpage can easily be created during covering, so why be in anguish about the last 2 thou (that's 2 mils to you guys over there) during the gluing up of very flexible assemblies.... I keep hearing a song "....castles in the air...."

Now got the Challenger flying as I want! C of G should be on the wing joiner tube. Some forums posts say front of the wing joiner for "gentle" and mid-joiner tube for "fun". Now the 45 degree dive test and the change of elevator on level inverted flight tests both show I am getting there. I braved the final touch and spun it. Quite sudden kick into spin, and fast rotation, but came out as I centred everything... don't think I needed opposite rudder. From being a poo of a model I think this may become a keeper! Amazing what a bit of concentrated trimming does to your impression of a model!

Hi Fun Flyer, I use APC 5.5 x 4.5E speed props on Hobbyking funfighters and as a pusher on the Cutlass. To provide enough clearance I use the hub from a second old broken prop to offset the prop away from the motor. There is a lot of thread on the motor adaptor so this is no issue. Also the prop "undoes" as it is not a pusher prop, so check the tightness of the prop nut every few flights. Remember to power-off well before getting near the ground and glide in the flare. This helps. Regards -- Old_Robin

Hi Texas Flier. Yes, mine is about 24 oz too. Balances on the spar and flies nicely. Only caution I would give is to not over bank in turns as if you do, with the long nose, I have had mine kick into a spin a couple of times. Other than that this is a great little plane. Best of luck. Old_Robin PS Mine flies on a Hobbyking funfighter motor and a 4S 850mAh 90c battery....which is why it is quite light. I used this as I have loads of the batteries as I love the funfighter series by Hobbyking...

Nice looking cutlass. Interesting finish and nice colour scheme. Hope the maiden goes well. Best regards Robin

Picture of the under-wing without the "drop-tank" servos.

Gangster, I couldn't agree more. The fus instructions only take you through the first half of the build and leave out the fitting of the turtle-deck sheeting, fus through-tube, and numerous other bits. No instruction at all about fitting and retaining the canopy hatch and the plastic bolts and small tabs for the underside of the hatch are not even in the parts list! Anyone "stuck" with their build, I would be happy to advise how I coped. I broke the fus with a tip-stall while turning crosswind leg to land and have just completed the repair. CofG at 75mm was not far enough back so I have set it at 85mm and will fly when the weather improves. I have checked for wing-warp carefully and I have none, so I wonder if they build in wash-out in the RTF version in the wings to reduce the tip-stall tendancy... anyway, keep flying reasonably fast on the way down and minimise the bank in turns near the ground. Also it does need opposite rudder to come out of a spin or it just keeps on going. It comes out with just a prod of it, so be mentally ready to apply rudder. It does look a treat in the air, but mine has been sledging along on its tail with lots of up elevator trimmed in to get it flying which is why I am moving the CofG. I also put in more down-thrust than specified on the motor if this helps. Robin.... Edited By Old_Robin on 31/08/2015 16:52:39