eflightray

Just looked up the Dawn Flyer, a 48" span early monoplane, open rear frame. The Turnigy is a bit of an over-kill, but then she should cruise round nicely on low throttle. Maybe something like a 12 x 6 on 3s Lipo.

Assuming you're also an IC engine flier. It's no different really from sticking a 60 in a model meant for a 40, (and don't all IC fliers do that), it has the potential to go faster, but doesn't have to, depending on the throttle. The only other consideration is the same for the IC set-up, if it's heavier will it upset the CG. If it fits, go with it.

Posted by ericrw on 03/04/2014 13:44:55: I was hoping to use this motor in my Dawn Flyer build but the recommended wattage for the model is only 300w. Or is it possible to use a 470w ? The 'wattage' actually used will depend on what pack voltage, and what propeller you use. Watts = volts x amps. Amps, depends on the load on the motor, i.e. the prop size. One of the first 'tools' worth getting is a wattmeter.

Alignment Roy ?, what's that I'm a model builder, not an engineer A roll of wallpaper backing paper, some straight edges, pencils, pens, and angles, and a tin of pins, the rest is 'by eye'. For the Dauntless I did use Google SketchUp and a 3-view to work out how big and how long a box, (technology at it's best). With a box construction you automatically get straight edges, (you hope), so it should be straight to build. It's amazing what you can get away with under the skin, they all look pretty when finished and in photographs.     Edited By eflightray neath on 28/03/2014 15:08:57

Posted by John Milne on 28/03/2014 14:24:59: Hi, Great building and techniques. What glues do you use for the various types of joints. John My favorite is UHU Por, but have tried most types, - wood glues, (fair but slow), epoxy, (can be quick, or messy), hot glue, (watch the temperature and amount, it melts Depron), Gorilla glue, (great stuff but can expand a lot and look messy), even used, 'Use No Nails', (wall board stuff, good for sticking wing skins on as slow drying). Never liked the foam safe cyno. Depron building is very similar to balsa, just cheaper. I have even seen a thread in another forum of a Depron built turbine model. My avatar is another of my 'Deprons' - Sunderland 90" span.

Yes the main box and formers are 6mm, then I generally skin with 3mm. Depron has a sort of 'grain', a little like balsa has, and will bend easier one way than the other. I pre-shape the skins by either rubbing them over the edge of my work top, or roll them over a tube, (old bottom section on a fishing pole). The recent Depron I have bought, seems to have a harder skin on one side and doesn't bend as easy as some of my previous stock. The trick to stop it cracking is to put tape on the 'outside surface' of the sheet, (packing tape etc), prior to bending, then slowly build up the bend. My previous Depron sheets were much more flexible, it could be the manufacturer has changed something, though sanding the hard skin does seem to improve bendability. The two finished models-- Scratch built, (no plans), Douglas Dauntless, 67" span. Scratch built, (based on TN's plan, free in mag), Spitfire, 72" span. eflightray.

I thought I would show these pictures of my current method of scratch building fuselages from Depron. The general method seems to be full formers, perhaps built on a central crutch. I build a box first and add outer part formers for the skins. The box gives strength plus it gives you a very handy place to put all the RC rear, battery(s) etc. Might be worth a consideration for future models, the choice as always is the builders. My Dauntless and Spitfire fuselages -- eflghtray.

Anything a model could possibly do, a vehicle could do in a much bigger manner, except vehicles can be easily seen and restricted in their movement. Model UAV's don't have to have to fly in daylight, electric flight can be pretty silent, and who said it had to be explosives.

"Just one question do you guys clothe the complete fuz and tail ?" On most of mine I use ceiling emulsion paint as an undercoat and sanding sealer, (add a little talc powder), then use acrylic artists paint as the main colour. A little extra protection is finally added using Ronseal Diamond Polyurethane varnish.

Nice build and a lot of effort going in. I too enjoy building with Depron, but generally cannot drive myself to spend enough time on the finish. My scratch built Douglas Dauntless SBD, (Scratch Built Depron), 67" span.

I don't think I've registered in this forum before. But then my second hobby is forgetting things, obviously my first one is model planes. Been at it a while now, must be coming up to 60 years since that first rubber job. My models have progressed a bit since then, but the great thing is about this hobby is you can keep learning. Hi from eflightray, here in the WWW, Wet, Windy, Wales.