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Andy Hat

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Everything posted by Andy Hat

  1. My current project is a Ben Buckle Playboy Senior kit. It's a perfect example of pre-cut parts that are not accurately cut. You are meant to fettle six wing-tip ribs from the standard size, but its not actually possible because the drawn ribs don't fit into the standard ones. I don't think the drawn ribs are correct either, since my copies (cut using photocopies as a template) didn't fit too well. The pre-cut wing tip and tail parts were approximations of plan parts. I'm not complaining, I knew what to expect from making other BB kits. I'm not sure how old the kit was when I got it but I hope some new templates were made after mine was made... Anyway, here's a pic, you might be able to see where I've accidentally marked the soft wing spars when sanding the ribs - doh! The Axminster stuff looks good - particularly the detail sanders - cheers.
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  3. OK, I've built a large number of planes in my time but there's one part I always dread - sanding wings. My building is not as neat as some construction I've seen here. It would be great if everything lined up but in reality, my stuff needs some 'adjustment' after gluing, i.e. ribs need sanding down to match the spar height, drips of glue need removing etc. A lot of the time, I'll catch the top of a rib (and break it off) when I'm sanding a spar, or take a groove out of a spar when I'm sanding along the top of a rib. One of problem I have is holding down a wing (usually over a table edge) whist sanding it. Occasionally, I've had bad breaks because I'm applying too much force. I use my Permagrit block a lot but also a rubber sanding block (paper attached by spikes over the top. I also use those sponge sanding blocks. Even with the softer tools, I can still cause damage to the delicate structures! My models look OK in the end (covering can hide a multitude of sins/repair) but any expert-tips on sanding would be great to hear.
  4. A handy tip I was given by an old chap: (with the engine not running) set to low throttle, fit some tubing on the fuel feed. Blow down the tube whilst adjusting the bleed valve. You can 'feel' the resistance and set the valve so you're able to just get enough air through.
  5. Pat - Yes the first flight was hairy! If yours is the Flair tail then those measurements make sense. My Ben Buckle has much smaller moving surfaces so need more throw. The throws on the first flight were no where near enough but it was wallowing so much, I don't think anything different would have helped. I can live with what I have for now but if I built one again, I'd go with the Flair tail. I don't have a table saw so I stuck some balsa to a board and sanded it into a wedge. Then stuck it onto the tail plane seat with double-sided tape. Should be flight testing later...
  6. This thread has some interesting stuff about J60 trim/incidence: **LINK** Looking at the model, I think I'd rather attempt to make a very slim wedge to go under the tail, rather than hack away at the current fuselage. Next one I build will have the top longerons continued without a break, until the end of the fuse - like someone on that thread did...
  7. I think that be a harder permanent change and it might spoil the nice look. it's looking like sanding off the rear (4mm at the back, sloping to zero at the front of the tailplane) may be the best thing to do. Difficult to do accurately but worth a try.
  8. It flies! Well, the first flight was very scary. under power, and without power, it was ballooning/wallowing/dolphin-ing and there was limited control. I managed to get it down intact (those wheels are great at absorbing a heavy landing!). So, I put two halves of a lolly stick (4mm) under the leading edge of the tail, added two washers to the top of the motor mount, added another 75g of weight to the front and moved the clevises in by two holes on both the elevator and rudder. The next flight was much better and followed by 3 more batteries-worth of flights. It flies around nice and slowly. Most enjoyable! (I did learn that trying to take a photo whilst flying is probably not a good idea...) The extra weight may not have been needed so I'll try taking it out as Pat suggests. Both the rudder and elevator now move ~40 degrees. The Flair tail, with larger moving surfaces) looks much better but these are OK for now. Raising the tail LE 4mm meant that it flew well with zero elevator trim. Any suggestions on how to permanently build-in the raised tail LE? I'm not sure I'd be able to accurately sand a piece of balsa sloping from 4mm to zero, or cut a slope into the existing rear end. Edited By Andy Hat on 21/06/2019 20:24:20
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  10. It's finished! I had to add 220g of lead to the front to get it anywhere near balancing. Looking forward to flying it soon. Slightly worried about it climbing too fast and needing permanent downtrim. Also worried about the small rudder - will it be enough to control it?
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  15. It's nearly finished. Just a few more things to do, primarily the decoration. I've ordered some matt black vinyl for that. I can confirm that less than 3m of Solartex was enough to cover it. Luckily I had this much in cream. Edited By Andy Hat on 16/06/2019 15:17:06
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  20. I've just built one of these Ben Buckle kits and, at first, what to do with the wing tips wasn't clear to me either. It looks like it's too late for you to cut the slot in the outer rib (shown in the lower middle of the previous photo). If you've already put the lid on the trailing edge sandwich then I'd chop the wing tip where it meets the end of the rib. You'll then need to thin the end of the wing tip so it fits in the triangular sandwich, against the rib. Then finish off with a triangular brace on the inside (perhaps the part you cut off the tip). Edited By Andy Hat on 16/06/2019 11:26:15
  21. Thanks Dwain. 5m? blimey. I have quite a few rolls of Solartex but probably not 5m of the same colour. I usually use the Hobbyking film, which is excellent, and cheap. Shame they don't do a "solartex" equivalent since I really want to give this a vintage (non-shiny) material look. Oratex is pricey. Tissue wouldn't survive my handling and I've not had much luck covering in nylon. Covering this thing looks like it could easily cost as much as the kit cost to buy. I may have to work out colour-scheme which uses the Solartex that I have in stock...
  22. The Flair and KK designs of the wing joiner/centre looks stronger than the Ben Buckle version. I've now joined the wing with a 1/8 ply brace. It was too late to change the wing fixing method but I don't intend to fly it in anything other than a vintage way. I think I might double up the uprights under the wing though. Does anyone have an estimate of how much Solartex is needed to cover a Junior 60? Edited By Andy Hat on 31/05/2019 18:39:11
  23. Thanks. I think I'll make the centre section as wide as the fuselage (so the outer ribs sit on the longerons) and build in a new 1/8 ply dihedral brace.
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