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Andy Hat

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Everything posted by Andy Hat

  1. I'm building a Ben Buckle Junior 60 and I'm not clear on the wing joining. When it comes to joining the two wing halves, there's no plan (other than the instructions and drawings to build a two part wing). Looking at the roughly cut dihedral brace and/or doubling up the width of the half-joiners, implies that the width of the flat centre section is -greater- than the width of the fuselage. i.e. the two outer ribs are further out than the edges of the fuse. This feels wrong since I'd normally assume that the pressures of the wing bands would go through the ribs, down directly on the top edges of the fuse. I've looked at many pictures online but can't quite determine what's correct. Also, any ideas on where I can get some nice 4-inch small-hubbed vintage balloon wheels like the Flair Smooth Hub Wheels shown on **LINK** ?
  2. The software is easy to up (or down) grade. All parts are easy to replace - gimbals, switches etc. After coming from JR, you'll find it initially confusing but once you've worked out the basics, it's very powerful. I'm not sure I remember a lot but I know how to duplicate, and then edit, models and that about all I need to know most of thr time. There are lots of youtube vids on setting it up. I wouldn't change from FrSky now.
  3. Thanks all! Might get the heat gun out later - to try and untwist the rear. Looks like I need to get some orange paint...
  4. I inherited this plane and I'm not sure what it is - anyone know? It's been stored in a shed for some time and it a bit worse for wear but I'm keen to rejuvenate it if I can. It looks like there's a part missing where the windscreen would be - there's nothing to attach the rubber bands onto at the front. It would be great to find out what model it is and see if I can get a plan. Also, once I've fixed the broken horiz-stab, I need to somehow un-twist the tail section. The whole tail area is rotated a few degrees so the rudder is no longer at 90 degs. Any suggestions on how I can do this?
  5. They are both very similar and the fully assembled 1600 should fit in most cars, . One thing to look out for is the motor mount screws/bolts on the 1600. I've seen a couple where the motor worked itself out of the mount. Probably best to check/use some thread-lock before the first flight (probably good advice for most ARTFs that are pre-kitted-out...) Good gliders. The fuses are totally indestructible, wings not-so
  6. Thanks to the help on here, I got it flying! I reduced the rudder throw a lot and added some more downthrust. I did find that I had to add a lot of down on the elevator to make it fly straight but I managed a number of flights. Not sure if it's a characteristic of rudder/high-dihedral only planes but it takes some effort to initiate a turn or roll. Once it's gone past a few degrees then it 'falls' to the side a bit easier. Taking off from the ground isn't pleasant because if you use the rudder to keep it tracking straight, it always violently rolls just as it takes off. A hand launch looks much more professional. I might try adding some more weight to the nose - I don't like it having lots of down elevator just to fly straight. It needs a bit more downthrust too since it climbs a lot under power. I tried packing up the back of the wing but it just seemed to make it less responsive on the rudder. Still, it was nice to see it flying around against a clear sky, after it spent 20 years in pieces up in the loft.
  7. Yipee! It arrived today (via MyHermes). It was from C M Manufacturing which is Cloud Models, where they make the Bullet and others. The kit looks very complete. It looks like it comes with everything apart from wheels. There's even a fuel tank, although mine will be electric. Some fun building time ahead...
  8. Thanks Alan. I'm glad I bought the stripe sticker at the time. Yes I've flown a few 3 channel (no aileron) planes before. I am probably considered to be the main maiden-flight-tester at our club which is why this one took me by surprise - and I built it! It's pretty straight and weighs just under 1300g ready to fly (with battery). I'll be a bit more careful next time - it probably is overpowered.
  9. Thanks Donald. The thrust line of the motor is exactly the same as the engine bearers that I cut away. I got my CG Machine out and found that I needed to add 30g to the front to make it just (very slightly) nose heavy. You were right - the finger tip method wasn't accurate. I'll wind down the throws a bit and try again soon. I'll post here and let you know how it goes. Steve - you should definitely get it out and finish it!
  10. This Precedent Fly Boy was mostly assembled in the early 90s, put in the loft, and only recently finished off. It was built for IC and I converted it to electric as I finished it. Today it had the maiden flight and, although it's not smashed up, the flight was very scary. It was climbing, almost prop-hanging, and all over the place. At one time, it flipped upside down. It cartwheeled in after I cut the power and the only damage was a stripped rudder servo and a slightly crushed wing root. When it was 'flying' it felt possibly tail heavy but something/s need changing before I try again. The CG is as specified and the throws are those recommended in the instructions. I've read (probably on here) that they can be difficult to fly. It may have been one of the planes mentioned in a worse-plane-ever-thread. I think I've also read that someone had to pack up the rear of the wing to make it fly? Any suggestions most welcome! (Motor 3536/1050kv, battery 2200mah 3S, prop 11x5.5)
  11. I ordered a Galaxy Gazelle Kit on the 3rd Oct and the order is still showing pending. Does anyone have an idea of how long it normally takes for a special order to be processed? Are the Galaxy kits made to order?
  12. When buying disposable batteries, I use this as a reference: **LINK** I have found the supermarket 'extra long life', or similarly named, pretty good value for money. Sometimes places like Superdrug have buy-one-get-one-free type deals which can make their batteries even better value. Yes - I know I should be using rechargeables, and I do have a load, but I also have many AA/AAA battery consuming devices in the house....
  13. Thanks - it looks like adding differential is the way to go. Thanks for your offer to help Richard- I'll send you a quick email.
  14. It did respond to the rudder better than the ailerons, even with 100% rates on the ailerons (full servo movement, big aileron angle). I'm not familiar flying planes with such a high wing and I usually use the ailerons to turn. I'm sure you are right about the pendulum effect - it fought the roll a lot. I'll program a switch so that I can mix some rudder in with the ailerons. Thanks Bob!
  15. I have a Corben Baby Ace that someone else built from a DB kit. It was unflown when got it. I don't have any plans or instructions. It's crashed twice and I'm currently repairing it again. Although it balances under the wing spar, the ailerons are pretty ineffective i.e. you need maximum throws to just make the wings roll even a small bit. Once its rolled a short amount from horizontal then it tended to roll more i.e. it was hard to start a roll but once it was going, it seemed to 'fall' into the roll. The two crashes may have happened when wing struts detached but I can't be sure, so I'm beefing up the connections. Both crashes ended with the plane spiraling, in an uncontrollable spin. Either that was caused by me turning too sharply(?) or the wing struts detaching. Questions - do ineffective ailerons show that the CG is not correct? Or is it something else. Is this the normal way a Corben Baby Ace, with it's very high wing, flies?
  16. This wing is about 52/53 inches. Perhaps the classic wing is shorter than the tapered wing? This one has a 12" chord and I know the ARTF Mk2 is only 11". I assume the ARTF Mk2 is based on the kit Mk2? Because of the initial state this was in, I assumed it was really old. But I'm pleased if it's the 'latest' model. From my research, and others help on here, this seems to be OK(?): Wot 4 kits Mk1 - 1977-1981 released as a 'plan pack'. Foam veneered wing plus plans. Mk2 - 1981 - (circa) 1994 Square wing (foam veneer) full kit with die-cut parts. Can be identified by a V-shaped joint in the fuselage wood(?) Mk3 (circa 1994) - present Two versions released - Classic (straight wing) and Mk3 (tapered wing). Both with a 'Mk3 fuselage' which is narrower at the back and has more swept back fin and tailplane. Mk2 and Mk3 came with 'Wot 4' logo stickers but the red/orange/yellow decals were/are sold as an optional extra. ARTF (date) Foam-E - Mk1 smaller all foam model (stripe colour scheme in dark blue, although other decals/colours were available), 2015 Mk2 same model with internal changes(?) and the red/orange/yellow colour scheme. (date) Wot-4-E - Ripmax balsa ARTF smaller wingspan (1200mm) specifically designed for electric power. Stripe colour scheme in light blue and black. (date) Mk2 - ready made balsa model marketed by Ripmax, based on a Mk2 Kit. Designed primarily for IC. Stripe colour scheme.   I wish there was a Wikipedia page on the Wot 4, I think it deserves one!   Edited By Andy Hat on 26/05/2015 11:41:41 Edited By Andy Hat on 26/05/2015 11:43:05
  17. I don't own the plan but would like to. I'd be keen to build one if I had it 8). I think this is the one that was sold on Ebay but was being sold again by someone else. The original seller has removed the copyright and added his own 'company' name. He seems to give this one away 'free' with some homemade drawings of a MK1 wing. It's not for sale at the moment but you can see the interesting list text here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chris-Foss-Original-Wot-4-Plan-set-52-Span-Fun-Fly-/280652210355?nma=true
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