Glenn Moore
-
Posts
279 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Glenn Moore's Achievements
0
Reputation
-
Glenn Moore joined the community
-
Hi Stu, there is a link to the depron supplier I last used on page two and a lttle further down the page somebody suggested another. I think the only difference between white and grey depron is the price.I think the grey is cheaper because that is its natural colour but I mght be wrong on that. Glenn
-
Hi CS , somebody was encouraging me to build a concord at the end of the vulcan build but I had a few more planes higher up my to do list. I believe a concord would be fairly easy to build in depron due in part to the large sheet size and ease of bending. I may still have a go at one but it would probably be quite big, like at least 100" long. I will have to play around with some dimensions. as for retracts in depron all that is required is a little ply reinforcing in strategic places and it would work like any other model. I was toying with the idea of using retracts on the spitfire but my flying field is not suitable for wheels so I decided against it. Many people mix depron and balsa in their models but I dont generally bother as I think depron is just as good on its own. Just my opinion of course and many people would probably disagree but depron models certainly work out cheaper to build and as I enjoy building as much as flying it allows me to carry on building more large models.I just have to find a better balance with work to allow me more time. Glenn
-
Hi CS, the Vulcan build is here **LINK** and the model is still alive and well. Glenn
-
sorry for the lack of progress. I have got bogged down with work since the holiday and I am struggling to find time at the moment. There should be some updates early next week when I am hoping things will settle down a bit. Glenn
-
Hi Simon, the spars are ramin. 20mm x 6mm front and 12mm x 6mm rear . They should be plenty strong enough for the job and the space above will be filled in with 6mm depron. I will also add some intermediate ribs to give more support for the skins . Chrisie, I usually add extra layers of 6mm depron in the hinge areas and bore a hole with a tube to take robart hinges. Rudder and elevators will be done this way although I am looking at a slightly different design with the ailerons. I will decide once I have the top skins on. Glenn
-
assembling spars and ribs onto core
-
-
-
Hi Chrisie, not decided on a scheme yet but while I intended this as a fun scale model I will put as much detail in as I can manage without adding too much weight. Glad you like the hole cutters, its nice when a simple tool makes the job easier. Should have another update later. Glenn
-
Toni, I did try using a heat gun once to help bend the sheeting as I heard of others using this method. All I managed to do was melt the depron so all I use is may fingers and the edge of kitchen worktop (when I am allowed) and this works fine for me. Roy, I am using hardwood spars and I will add a plywood reinforcing plate for the nylon bolts for attaching the wings to the fus, this is the only wood that will be used on the wings. I normally use 6mm sheet for formers as there is a bigger edge to glue the skins to. I have used 3mm to skin all of my other models but I bought a box of 2mm to try and it seems ok. I like to build my models as light as possible so I dont use glass cloth over the skin but there is no reason why glass couldnt be used with something like poly c or even epoxy to make a really strong model
-
Used some spare wood to make a wing shaped table with the dihedral built in so I can set up each wing half in one go. Front and rear spars made up ready to be glued on
-
-
-
core sheets layed out
-
