Dave Hopkin

I am probably being thick here (I usually am!) But in Pats Diags, they look identical, the only difference I can discern is (maybe) the distance from servo center to the pull line attachment... if that's correct, is there an optimum ration between rubber horn and (used) servo arm length? Or am I missing something......

Surely the answer is.... Spektrum AR610 £29.95 Orange R620 £7.90 Ebay R620 £8.00 to £14.69 So either Spektrum are adding a very large mark up OR Orange are using the cheapest possible components potentially with lower quality performance and a higher fail rate..... As they say you pays your money and takes your choice... My personal experience (DX5 then DX9) Never had an issue with Spekky RX, have 2 Orange RX's only one of which will bind..... But as I have only recently moved over from RC Boats I don't have the flying time to draw any conclusions

I think one of the problems here, is we are mixing two different issues, true "brownout" (being a loss of lockon with the Tx when the RX input voltage drops below a (component dictated threshold) and "Loss of Signal" (being an break in Signal reception by the Tx) True "Brownout" is totally internal to the model and Tx independent and given the battery supply is delivering a consistent voltage to the Tx - if you are running the Tx on the main flight lipo's and immediately prior to the brownout the motor was running properly it is highly unlikely it was a "brownout", if you are running on a separate Tx Batt, then that Batt could be the cause (modern digital servos drawing higher current than older ones etc) - It could be that Orange use/have used cheaper components with less tolerance to voltage drop? Looking at the cases described in the thread its much more likely to be a "loss of signal" issue in this case its an generic issue with 2.4mhz not specific to Spektrum as the very short wavelength can be blocked/impeded by physical objects, so questions.... Aerial differences between the Dx6 and Dx6i? Aerial orientation to the model? Aerial layout in the Rx? Dual Receivers in the Rx as opposed to single? Rx installation? Model Generated RF Noise? External RF Interference? Of course some of the cases will be that of some other cause of failure (its so easy to blame the Radio if we are honest).... Cant think of any other variables off-hand

Looking good sir...... but don't even think about a maiden anywhere near Cardiff in early September!!!!!!

Posted by GrahamC on 15/08/2014 10:13:58: Its only three days... And as for those who say "stuff em and fly anyway...." 2.4g / 35mhz jamming equipment is surely not beyond the wit of those responsible for national security. Cough, the old 27Mhz was routinely jammed during the Troubles in Northern Ireland (late 70's early 80'2) most foot patrols carried a small dry cell jammer that gave a jammed zone of about 100ft radius, there were (and almost certainly still are) a range of different jammer's issued depending on the threat assessment for the locality was, they used to be called "xxxx Jokers" where xxx was a colour, the colour changed depending on the target frequency.

Posted by kc on 14/08/2014 19:19:31: My point of view is that if the latest DX6 is not compatible with Rx that were / are OK with the old DX6i and other Spektrum Tx then Spektrum should clearly state this now. Edited By kc on 14/08/2014 19:21:26 Spektrum are under NO obligation to test their equipment for compatibility with competitors in any way shape or form, if a company markets a product as being "Spektrum compatible" it is up to them to verify it and issue any warnings required..... Has anyone had issues when using a Spektrum TX and a Spektrum RX? No? then logic dictates that the issue lies with the claim that Orange Rx;'s are a "fully compatible product"

Get well soon Banjo........................ know how you feel John All the best

Yep, done in in my <cough> rc boating days..... It works (with care) if you put a length of suitably sized solid rod inside the tube before tapping it down it down, and use a smaller hammer........ and hit a batten of wood not the tube

I have to reverse elevator and ailerons on all aircraft on Phoenix 5 - but its consistent and doesn't change between airframes

A National Center could (perhaps) be run as a commercial venture (along the lines of the National Motor Cycle Museum) there is not reason why a National Aeromodelling Museum could not be part of it too... we have museums for everything else so why not? Design in some good quality conference centre facilities and most of all market the facility on a commercial basis As a Museum there might be scope for external funding too As far as bringing the youth into the hobby (and that's vital) then the BMFA should be facilitating/promoting link=ups with existing youth organisations (the ATC is a prime candidate) that could be a win/win relationship too

Seems to me that the title of this thread should be "Fake Orange RX poor range" If you buy a cheapo drill bit at a car boot and when you use it, its rubbish, do you blame the electric drill?

Not sure but these are still gigging..... http://www.thelambrettas.co.uk/band-bio.php

Very pretty and looks the part..... its an option of course, but I'd really love to have the cordless drill flying on a more scale like prop nut....   And too my ears a cordless drill sounds better than an asthmatic lambretta any day Edited By Dave Hopkin on 08/08/2014 11:00:27

I was think more along the lines of props that in real life dont have a spinner, thing WW1 Biplanes... just a flat steel boss with bolts going into the prop hub....

I very recently saw and brought a 90% complete 66" L4 Grasshopper built from the Svenson kit; seller was selling on behalf of a modeller who couldn't complete it due to arthritis, a pity its extremely well put together and covered I did feel a twinge of guilt when I handed over £40 for it

On aircraft with no spinner, just the (full size hub boss) how do people go about eliminating/concealing the (model) prop shank and nut? I could simply hack off the excess shank but even then it leave a totally non scale looking nut on the air side of the prop hub. In my particular case its electric but the question is general.....

If Plod saw the thing shooting a 3ft (sorry must be PC) 1 Meter flame out... I think you would have some explaining to do on the ground that flamethrowers probably count as "offensive weapons" (Off to design a flying St George now, just in case I encounter one)

A really old fashioned way is to use gummed paper - the sort you lick to stick On the Gum Side draw the design you want Tape the label down so its reasonably taut Over pain the design with clear dope (this will form the layer that is in contact with the model) Paint on the design you want on top of the dried dope Cut out the transfer leaving a little margin of clear dope Dunk the whole thing in warm water and use exactly as water-slide transfers as the gum will soften rapidly allowing the dope "carrier" to slide off onto the model I guess you could print onto a doped gummed label to bring it into the 21st century!

Insurance should cover any civil claim, negligence can lead to criminal prosecutions which will not be covered by insurance (though legal costs might be)

Reading the insurance operating with a modified rig would be covered - but if any investigation subsequently proved the mods to have been a direct contributor to the incident then the flyer might well find themselves facing charges of negligence in that the flyer "owed the plaintiff a duty of care" and the modifications formed a breach of that duty So says STMBO who is in the legal trade

Tshhhhh Mrs BEB's project should have been diagonally double planked and nice stepped hull to go with that hard chine, that would get it to plane (and yes, that is a nautical term) nicely ..... course a couple more 600's either side of the one you have would help too.....

Its not an RC Submarine, I am just investigating the application of Lipo's for a new form of farmland ploughing

Hi Paul As I have a few months off, I am going to the field during the week, as I am for the moment an "interesting liability" in the sky it's probably best I avoid the busier flying times!!!!

I wont claim to be anywhere near museum standard, in scale boats there are several classes for Scale models, from Class A (Exact Scale, where builders plans and full documentation must be provided) down to class C (for kits) - sounds like your member is in the Class A area... Me? lower echelons of class B! I think the biggest challenge in building boaters will have is weight control, its simply not really an issue in boats, I have a 56" 1904 HMS Kent which when ballasted down to the correct waterline weighs in at 60lb!

Been lurking for a few months whilst preparing the ground with "she that thinks she must be obeyed" for a return to aeromodelling, yes I confess I was seduced away to RC model boats for a good few years, but I have done the Jeremy Kyle detox thing now and back and swapping 40mm brass props for 12" nylon ones..... Joined a club (Rochdale Flyers) purchased an Apprentice and very slowly learning to fly the damm thing...... mind you still feels a bit weird NOT putting 4 or 5lb ballast into the thing........