Oliver Terschowetz

Thanks for that. It does sound good. If you've ever heard the sound of a Tie Fighter flying past in Star Wars...that's the sound ! 😁👍

Thanks for the 2 blade reassurance. Clockwise when looking at model from front.

Thanks Simon but sticking with the 2 blades. Will defo purchase APC style though if/when my unforgiving club tarmac runway disagrees with a dodgy landing. ☺️

Too right Peter. The noise just gives me goose bumps every time. Mind you that .61 geared engine makes quite a satisfying 'whine' when passing. Makes the guys at the club smile anyway.

Call me old fashioned but give me the noise, smell and oily fingers every day of the week. An aircraft with 'soul' and a thumping heart at its core! 😁 ♥️I.c.

Yes that's a good point actually. You go to the 3 blade for scale look and it ends up being shorter in blade length and looks prob worse than the 2 !! I just wouldn't want to upset how it fly's at the moment. Your looking at £30 odd quid for the spinner. 😵

Would love a Hurricane...

Thank you Peter. 👍

Noted, thanks. Would that 14 X 7 be suitable to replace the 16 X 8?

So forgetting the 'geared' spec of my .61 for the moment, should I stick with the 16 X 8? In anyone's experience what changes could I make to either improve longevity of engine and or increase in power? As I mentioned she plods along quite happily but would be nice to have a little more thrust in reserve.

Thanks for that Allan. I suppose I'm lucky in that I don't need to worry about noise. It was purely for a 'better look'. But now come to the conclusion after reading replies to this post that, what's the point! It runs perfectly well with 2 blades! And as Martin pointed out, who's counting when running! Kind regards.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there Martin. (I was thinking the same thing). I get my enjoyment out of flying the darn thing rather than it sitting in the garage looking pretty with 3 blades! J D 8 - my engine is also geared. But "if it ain't broke...." I'll stick with my 2 blade and eBay the three blades!! Thanks for your input. 👍

It's actually a OS MAX .61. O.k, so Don your saying keep the 2 blade and by dropping an inch on Dia will that be 'kinder' on the motor? Allan, is your "yes" FOR the 3-blade? Or "yes" to Don's "Three blade props are not as efficient as 2 larger blades". What is "efficiency" regarding model engines? Just generally a happy motor !? Thank you both.

Any wise words of wisdom would be much appreciated please. I have an old model spitfire with a 2 stroke glow .91, currently running well on a 2 blade master air screw 16 x 8. I was contemplating putting a 3 blade on to make it look a little more authentic. Before I commit and purchase a shiny new spinner (£25 - £30 !), I just wanted to check first.... IS IT REALLY WORTH IT? I have picked up two sizes of 3 bladed props, 16 x 10 and 14 x 9. If there are no detrimental effects of going to the 3 blade prop, what are the general rules of thumb regarding prop dia and pitch? Would these two sizes be appropriate? Am I wasting my time 🙄 Thanks for any help.

Help please. Can I glue radiator air duct, air scoop etc directly to the solar film? These vacuum formed parts came with the model but we're not attached. And would canopy glue be best to attach? Hope someone can help. Kind regards.

Great. Not very confident with cutting into the balsa and sounds too clinical for my inexperience!. So the silicon seal sounds like the better option for me. Thank you for the tips. Kind regards Oliver

Ok, thanks Danny. Never considered magnets! Silly question... I presume then 'super' sticky tape to hold magnet to the ultracote surface, or glue?

Hi everyone. This is probably more a general query on attaching add on details to any ultracote covering. But in this case is for my spitfire which i have obtained the three detail underwing add ons including the radiator. I have no experience in this hence the question. I dont want to cut into the ultracote covering without at least checking first. Can anyone please help and or advise me? This will finish the detail of the model off nicely if i do properly.Thanks.s

Glad you said that John! Thanks both.

Hello all. Hope you can advise me. Currently working toward my safe solo A test and was wondering what I need to do for the range check, pre flight? I have a Spektrum DX6i. Do I have to physically stand 30 mtrs from my plane and shout over to my helper to check I am moving all control surfaces in the correct direction? Or is there a simple range check test on my Tx that I use in front of the examiner? No one at my club seems to have a clear answer? Thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone this makes sense now. Its a club requirement for safety basics flying ic, rather than a bmfa requirement. BMFA are just providing the foundations or guidelines for the club. I suppose a balsa wood, engine carrying plane can hit a little harder than an electric foamie and hence portrays a more dangerous situation. Hence requires the confidence in the club for you to fly solo. Though saying that you need at least 2 persons at the club for safety anyway.

I am currently gaining my wings on an I.c. trainer, to hopefully eventually pass A test. I have been told I need to take my test with an I.c. plane to cover electric flight also?. I.e. if I pass A test with an electric plane, I wouldn't be able to fly solo with an I.c. plane? Is this true? I can't find any refernc to this in the BMFA manual or anywhere else. Can anyone advise? Thanks in advance.