Jim Walton

Thanks Bert. Jim

"I have a pdf copy of the original magazine bulid review if anyone is interested" Cessna Cessna, would you please post your pdf file on the magazine build? Jim

WW1 models require a little more flying skill. They sure do look good flying and landing. We have a "Dawn Patrol" event comeing up in early December. This has always been my favorite event of the year. For the last few years I have only built models that use fabric covering and fixed landing gear. This is mainly WW1 and between the wars. This is because of two things, Solortex is so easy to put on and I cannot afford retractable gear. Not only that, I do not want the complexity of retractable gear. Both of these make model building and flying more fun. Jm

Cessna, thanks for the photos. They will be a big help. The panel is beautiful. Is it a kit? I especially like the crackle finish on the panel. I now have a much better understanding of the slots. I was thinking they worked automatically. Would it be possibe for me to mail you a thumb drive with return postage? I would like to get a copy of all of the photos of the full scale. I doubt there is a full scale ship anywhere in the US. I really do not want you to go to a lot of trouble. Thanks again, Jim

I picked some ot the Dubro wheels yesterday. I already have the pump. We had a Southern War Birds meet at a field that also has one of the largest R/C dealers in the south-east US sitting within 100 yds. of the flight line. Just going to a fly in can get expensive but it is really great to be able to stock-up without doing mail order. I try to leave the Visa at home and just carry a limited amount of cash. Jim

Jon, your Nieuport sounds like my Pup. Best on less windy days. Flying off of grass with the narrow WW1 wheels helps. I alway use tail skids unlike a lot of guys building WW1. The tail skid with a little right rudder helps keep mine on the best line during takeoff. Mine is not a good flyer in the wind. Oddly enough my Balsa USA Eindecker 80 flys great on windy days. I have been flying mine for over 15 years. Due to aging, I have recovered it 4 times. Solortex is much harder to take off the to put on. It is a really tough material. The lb. vs the US dollar always looks bad from my end. On my trip to London about 10 years ago it was $1.90 US to the lb. Jim

Bert, I got up from my lazy fanny and opened the kit to inspect the parts. I have had this kit for over 2 years and never taken the parts out of the box. I have only looked at the plans. I found the slots. The hard part has already been done. Only ourside shaping needs to be completed. It will not be too hare with my 36" sanding block. Thanks for taking the photos. Cessna, thanks for the offer of photos of the full scale. I really would like some shots of the tail control horn and skip. Do you have a good shot of, the dashboard, motor, brakes, and maybe the wing slots. Do the slots function? What I mean is are they fixed on the full scale ort do they open and close based on speed? Does the kit wing build with a little wash-out? The yellow G-ARMZ looks great. The yellow would really be a good color for ease of sight when in the air. Thanks to both of you for the trouble. This sort of help will certainly make an easier build. When I'm finished with building I will have the only Turbi in the whole south-east USA I think I am already the only person I am aware of that flys SINGLE-STICK. Mine is a Multiplex 3030. I had it modified by the Multiplex service people when I bought it. Best set I have ever owned. Jim, Columbus, Georgia USA

The Nieuport looks very good. Does it fly as good as it looks? I would enjoy a building thread on the Pup. I have built a lot of Balsa USA kits and would like to see more threads. The 1/6 Pup would be a good one. At our Southern War Bird club meets, the Balsa USA Pup kits of all scales seem to be the most popular. Jim

Oddly enough, I sometimes use my old Nikon F2.Photomic. I have the film developed and put on CD's. I then load them on my MAC. I have actually carried over 300 old negs. to be put on disk. I have another 5000 I would like to have done. This would help with storage problems. I have not thought about picking a color. Either, yellow or orange (both being easier to see when flying) will probably be my choice. I do like the white one shown in your photo. I would imagine white is easy to see in the air. I finally made copies of my plans yesterday. I am looking toward late Nov. or early Dec. to start construction. I have a really good Saito 1.20 that I will use. I have already begun studing the 1/2 size copy of my plans to see any "pitfalls" I might encounter. The plans seem very complete. The only thing I have seen that will be somewhat difficult will be forming the wing slats. Jim

Bert, I meant to ask, do you have more photos you can post? If you do, pleas do so. Jim

Hi Bert, That is beautiful. It would be great to have a full scale close by to work from. I have never seen a full scale craft here in the states. Did your fly as good as it looks? Jim

Hello, I have built kits from Flair and Balsa USA and they compare favorably. Both require "bashing". Meaning a lot of changes to make them appear more scale like. The Flair Pup look-alike needs taller landing gear and many improvements on the tail feathers. The Balsa USA Pup requires much the same. Both need "sprung" landing gear. As designed, they are "stiff legged'. Landing can be hard with both. The Eindecker needs a serious modification. I drew-up and built an open structure rear fuselage. This change makes a much nicer looking and lighter model. I also use pull-pull control system on the rudder and elevator. I will be glad to post photos of modification made to both models if requested or you can PM me for details. The Balso USA Eindecker, if certain changes are made to the fuselage, can be a vey nice looking and great flying model. Mine is over 15 years old and still going strong with it's original Saito .91. My Flair look-alike Pup is also fairly old (6 years) and is still flying with an OS.72. Jim Walton   Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 24/10/2014 22:09:52

Thanks Percy, My Saito 1.20 is really a great engine. I used it in an 80" Tiger Moth. Flew with great authority. A few minutes ago I opened the box to inspect the kit. It is the most complete kit I have ever seen. The only thing You must supply is covering, engine, propeller, radio, glue and fuel. The wood is 1st class. Unbeleivable! I will replace the wheels as they are made of a hard plastic. I will use inflatable. As I mentioned earlier, I am going to copy the plans. They are huge. No one has yet memntioned the dummy VW engine. I guess if you could use something like a 1.80 or 2.00 twin four-stroke you would not need the engine kit. I will plan to use my single cylinder 1.20 so the provided VW will be needed for scale appearance. The plan makes it look like it will do fine. The landing gear looks doable. Thanks for the info on the Mapp gas. I already have a cylinder on my unit. P.S Cessna, if possible please post your pdf build review. I do not have a clue on how to post files. The review really would be of great help.

Wow! I really didn't expect so much good advise. I am getting eager to start my build. I am headed to my office to make copies of my plans. I will also make a 1/2 size copy to study. I have found my copy of the December 1997 issue of Flying Scale Models. It contains a Precedent Turbulent building article by Roy Salter. It is short but informative. He used a Super Tigre .90 for power. I am thinking of using a Saito 1.20 four-stroke. I will also use pull-pull for the rudder and elevator. The 1.20 is on the high end of the recommended engines. This may be more than I want to use. With the type motor mount I plan to use I can decide when I get closer to the final steps. I think it will mainly depend on how it balances. I have printed and collected all of the post and will keep them for reference. Thanks again. Jim

Beautiful building job. Looks great. Are the slots functional? How about using Map Gas? I understand it burns hotter. Thanks for the encouragement from both of you. I agree with the model being slightly nose heavy to start with. No one like to fly a model that is the least bit tail heavy. I have watched more than one person destroly a beautiful model because it was not ballenced correctly. A model that is flying tail heavy is easy to spot. Sadly it is not fun to watch the inevitable. I hope to get started right after Thanksgiving (November 27th). I plan to focus on it until complete. I will do a building post. It will be my first. Thanks again, Jim Walton, USA