Steven S
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Posts posted by Steven S
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When I tested my fan I got 559 grams thrust at 33.85 Amps for 351 Watts of power. The basic FMS 50mm fan from Banggood.
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Thanks Tim - I bought an E-Flite "Power 15" motor for mine, which is 35mm dia so I will see how inventive I can be and make it fit. I found an "Ken" doll at a boot sale, but he weighs 195 grams before surgery so I don't think i will be using him. My nephew has a 3D printer and doesn't mind making me parts.
I see you are inserting your battery from inside the cabin. I'm thinking of doing the same, but until I join and cover my wing which is still in 3 main pieces, and mount my motor I'm not sure where my C of G will end up.
Hi Barry - I cut out my motor mount box with my Dremal scroll saw.
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Posted by Tim C on 03/05/2019 16:44:36:
I will post up a link to download the STL files for the parts I use, so far it’s the end rib and flap hinge.
Tim - were you still planning on adding more 3D files. I wouldn't mind making a set of your motor parts and also your pilot for my Li'l Cub.
Your finished model is looking very nice by the way.
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The top and bottom pieces fit into the plate that mounts to the firewall and I am adding triangular pieces behind the motor mounting plate.
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I am making a plywood mount for mine.
I've just cut out the parts and still have a lot of clean-up to do.
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I bought some replacement wheels for the E-flite Timber. E-flite: EFL5258
They are made of a nice firm foam, 4 1/4 dia and 1 1/2 wide with a 0.13 hole that can be drilled larger. I haven't installed them yet so no picture in my album.
Edited By Steven Shaw on 16/02/2020 15:08:07
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I have the same problem with my 2nd generation DX6 with the rechargable pack. It seemed to last longer with the regular AA's.
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Would a nylon insert locknut work?
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Using the take a snapshot button works nicely also. Use the "Take a snapshot" button in the "Edit" dropdown tab, drag a box around the part you want, then "Control P" or the print tab and print.
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Have you tried reverse weeding Max?
Edited By Steven Shaw on 31/12/2019 18:35:14
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Duplicate
Edited By Steven Shaw on 19/12/2019 15:32:47
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Posted by Paul james 8 on 05/11/2019 10:48:45:Posted by Bruce Collinson on 04/11/2019 21:52:19:
Bet the t nuts were 1/4 UNC. Modelfixings.
BTC
If they were the original ones mine were quite a bit smaller than 1/.4 inch.
Plane looks great after the refurb, still waiting for the weather to improve so I can get mine flown, too wet to get the grass cut short enough for this type of model to take off from.
I know this is old news, but in Canada we use 10-24 and 10-32 nylon wing mounting bolts, they are 0.181 Inch Dia
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Posted by Paul james 8 on 05/11/2019 10:48:45:Posted by Bruce Collinson on 04/11/2019 21:52:19:
Bet the t nuts were 1/4 UNC. Modelfixings.
BTC
If they were the original ones mine were quite a bit smaller than 1/.4 inch.
Plane looks great after the refurb, still waiting for the weather to improve so I can get mine flown, too wet to get the grass cut short enough for this type of model to take off from.
I know this is old news, but in Canada we use 10-24 and 10-32 nylon wing mounting bolts, they are 0.181 Inch Dia
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The author of this 18 page Domino build thread is still active on the forum, maybe he can help you.
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Mine is coming along. I'm finishing the third wing section and have made most of the fuselage so far.
Next are the ailerons, flaps and finish off the [electric] motor mount. I still have to finish the wing mtg plates and change to larger wheels.
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Any local craft store that sells vinyl cutters should have some. The "Michaels" here sell 84 different colours, including a couple of golds.
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When I built my Sabre Jet I came across this duct calculator. It is best to have the duct taper to the calculated dia at the exit. I made my tube out of some old X-ray film.
Edited By Steven Shaw on 02/12/2019 23:29:50
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I have a small shop and had to give up my 15 inch Delta and replace it with a Dremel Moto-Saw 9.8 inch scroll saw. It uses Dremel pinned blades and I am very happy with it. It clamps firmly onto the edge of my workbench, makes nice clean cuts, and although I have never broken a blade they are easy to find in most DIY stores. I have regular, fine and metal cutting blades for it.
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Here is some info on flaps and leading edge slats that may be of use.
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+1 for GrahamC's method, that's how I do it also.
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Hi Peter, no problem, I just had to recut some new bottom strips. I have been following your build threads for years and should have noticed the mistake myself, but got caught up in cutting my wing "kit"
I just posted the drawing mistake to forewarn future builders.
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I'm building the wings now and came across a small problem on the plans. The layout at the front of the ribs shows the top and bottom sheeting stoping at the end of the ribs. I had to recut the sheets so that the leading edge strip would sit between them. Just some info for any future builders. The red circled notches were just there to remind me to add notches to 8 ribs for the dihedral braces.
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I have been mounting my steerable tailwheels with a small eyescrew under the rudder with a bit of stripped wire insulation for a bit of cushioning.
Has Your Club Made Any Decisions Regarding The Coronavirus?
in Flying Sites and Clubs
Posted
I just received an email stating that our monthly meeting scheduled for this Sunday has been cancelled. Our city just recorded it's first three cases yesterday.