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ntsmith

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Posts posted by ntsmith

  1. Spectrum state themselves that the capacitor is specifically meant for ground vehicles and is NOT to be fitted to aircraft. Cant see their reasoning myself but I never fit one but aim to keep the voltage to a level that is high enough not to warrant problems. IE use a 6v system where possible and if a 4.8v system then a max a four standard servos and check the voltage by applying some force to two or three of the surfaces at once to simulate a high load and check what it drops down to.
    Spektrum now have a very fast rebind time but this is all off topic. The topic is Telemetry and in short I would only under exceptional circumstances not use it.

  2. Here's a story: (and a thought!)

    The other day I crashed by beloved 48" Vanquish. After the crash the flight log (on the transmitter showed a lowest receiver voltage of 3.9v. I imagine it went lower than this and caused a "brown out". I had flown it a lot but that day was about the fourth or fifth flight with the added telemetry module and I take it that it may have been that which was the straw that broke the camels back. It was on that last flight that I was practising some flick rolls which take quite a bit of extra power from the servos so I am not sure if it was the telemetry module addition or if it was the added load. I little of each I suspect.
    I later found that there is an alarm on the DX8 which would have defaulted to 4.5v - had it been activated, so the fact is that used properly (not like I did) it can save a model. The fact that this one didn't get saved was because the system was new and I was unaware of its capability.
    I had recently changed my transmitter from a DX11 back to a DX8 which I loved and decided to return to but as I said, wasn't fuly conversant with its capability but it has made me a firm believer in telemetry systems; its yet another fail safe that if used properly can save your aircraft.
    I put it down to experience and I hope I and others can learn from my mistake.

  3. Apparently a Merco 61 would have weighed in at 12.7oz and my SC52 is 19oz. I'm glad to have found out as it would ended up decidedly nose heavy. Not sure about using any kind of "quick finish" now like Oracover as it would make maters worse. Solartex at minimum but perhaps this is goind to be a forced Nylon and dope job !

  4. The design calls for 1" balsa block tips but I have kept the tips light so far. There is only one servo located centrally and the sheeting will not be 100% over the surface. It wouldn't be too easy to access the bellcranks either if that were done. I am contemplating a 1/8" sheet and gussets but the dissadvantage that out weighs the weight benefit is that the tips are far less durable. Block or sheet is the question?

  5. It aint big, thats for sure. Its got 15mm added on its tail moment to compensate for lighter engine too!
    I cant believe this has supposed to have 1" under each tip for dihedral. Can anyone confirm?
    I would have guessed at about an inch under ONE tip, but thats a guess. I want to be sure before the halfs are joined which is where I am at present.

  6. I now have the firewall mounted as well as all the fuz underside sheeting done. The engine mount is fitted as well. Now trying to do some of the rear top of the fuz but am waiting for some 1/2" sheet to be delivered. I orderd some 3/4" sheet from Al's Models which will be used for the cockpit and forward of the cockpit sheeting. I will hollow the block out which is different to the slick-fli which I just used 3/16" sheet but with this bulbous cockpit I think this may be easier.

  7. I agree - I am also looking forward to this - it also looks like a kwik fli 3 may be joining the fold so we will have a full house. I used to think that the Bar Fli was ugly sister of the two (fli) machines in vogue at the time. Time is a great corrector of views though
    Martyn

    THE BAR-FLI WAS THE UGLY SISTER. HMM
    Beauty must be in the eye of the beholder as I always thought it the best. Its the simplicity of the design and built for the purpose and at the end a really beautiful model. Certainly in comparison with todays modern aerobatic things !

  8. No probs there. When its inverted, its orange, just so you know it.

    Seriously, I learnt from flyer who flew VERY FAST and small models that colour shouldn't be relied on and in fact they all blend in after a certain distance anyway. Try flying your sim with the model in silouette mode, you soon get used to it.

    It will have some black trim applied but I just wanted to get it out and flying. There are about three things to do.

    1/ Tighten but NOT file a flat on the steering tiller grub screw location. (It needs to be able to turn if it get a whack when its not supposed to! If it sits on a flat then the servo gets the shock and thats not good. Much better to just reposition the noseleg and re-tighten.

    2. Add some more lead in the back. I am going to do what I did before but more so. That is to cut the botton a little and screw a chunk to the rear fuz side.

    3. Adjust the engine throttle cable control range as this engine just idles at rediculous speeds and it can go lower ! I want to be able to cut it though some times.

    I have at least temporarily changed the metal spinner for a plastic JP one but only starting it a few times will tell if its man enough for the job.

    Strangely, nearly all flight surfaces were almost spot on for neutrals and for throws. Very pleased about my guesswork.

  9. I got the maided out the way today with good vis and temp at about 9c. the wind was about 9 going on 15knots. Lowish but changing direction all the time. The first landing nearly ended in disaster when the wind caught it just before touch down but the SC61 opened up without coughing or spluttering and I went round for a pretty good landing - imho!
    However, it is STILL significantly nose heavy even with some lead in the tail and the battery (6V placed behind the wing) so I am going to have to shove a bit more lead in the tail some where yet again. Anyway, IT FLIES

    at the field before maiden flight

  10. With the first flight of my Slik-fli made today I can once again start back to work on my Bar-fli. I hope to have learnt something though and that is that engines, albeit less powerfull back then were lighter and the Slik-Fli came out quite nose heavy. It was suggested to use some thing like an OS55 on the Bar-Fli but I am not sure if thats "cricket". I am quite adamant that the .61 I bought for this will be too heavy. Its not only the engine but the radio equipment which has undergone significant changes in all these years. Solartex or nylon and dope? Now theres another question. I wont ask the wife I know what she will say!

  11. Its an interesting thought but a retro build with a model that had a 10cc engine but fitted with a .46 just doesn't seem to equate. Guess I will stick with the 10cc engine.

    The Firefly is a model I have completely forgot. Does anyone do the plans? I have plans for the KwiK-Fli II and III which I am tempted but this looks a possible alternative IF I can get plans. Certainly would be nice to have a look at.

    Posted by jeff2wings on 19/02/2012 20:28:33:

    It depends on the engine you intend to use , the Enya 60- 11 TV ,ST 60 ,Merco of that era only weighed 12-13 oz without silencer and made only about .9-1.0 bhp so a O.S. 46 AX or 55AX will make a good stand-in but with more poke !

    How about this one next !!

  12. Having almost completed my Slik fly I have now started building the Bar-Fli in earnest. I have cut most of the wing ribs and some fuselage formers. Currently I am getting the doublers (which had to be recut) added to the fuselage sides which are shown here being cut to shape.

  13. Have finally installed the engine and done a rough cg check. Oops. Not very happy about that one. It is VERY nose heavy. Not sure what I can put it down to but the original ended up with the battery behind the wing and I can see no other way than doing the same so its going to be a hatch built behind the wing to accommodate a 6V ni-cad and even then it will be on the slight nose heavy side. The other thing I may have to do then is fit a tail skid. Not necessarily wanted but in cutting the underside out I may be able to put a 20g lead weight in there to help things along. Anyway, here is a picture of the SC61 (Normal carb position) mounted in its pride of place. Since then all the plumbing has been completed and the engine is now in a state of being able to be run. Certainly I have now passed a major milestone in the building of this model. It could now be flown within days if the weather looked as though it was going to be suitable.

  14. Cant wait to get my grubby sweating mitts on one of these. Looks great but lets hope there are no issues like we had with the DX8 - not that I would consider uding anything else - have done, got the tea shirt and gone back. Just cant beat it but perhaps this just might
  15. does this mean that if the fuel absorbs water then the actual volume of fuel in the can would be seen to increase. For instance. If I left a gallon of glow fuel out with the top off would the amount in the can appear to increase or is there a similar decrease in something else. Its just that I was promoted to this question after reading the column this month by Brian winch but I cannot find his email address to ask him directly so I thought this thread may provide some sort of answer.
  16. Struggled today fitting four bolts that hold the nose wheel assembly together. Using socket headed bolts with spring washers as well as nyloc nuts for added security, the problem being that the long hex driver wasnt long enough and I had changed the lower two bolts as there was risk of the aluminium screw head getting destroyed by a worn screwdriver and particuarly more so if there was paint on the screw head. I figured capheads would be able to be removed more easily if ever it came to that. I then covered the bottom part of the nose. I expect now I have just about three pieces of covering to complete that task. My third roll of orange was orderd and received from Gladston's. I guess it wasnt in stock but they were very helpful in getting ot to me quickly as soon as they had it, Thanks Gladstons.
    I have to fit the rear two pushrods BEFORE covering as I don't want to juggle with the fitting of them and poke it through the covering! Just trying to think ahead.
     
  17. The part I cut wrong was the doubler which on the side view shows it ending at the rear of F1 and on the plan at the front edge. The latter is what I strongly suspect as being the correct place but I went for the first - at the rear so I now have to cut two more doublers
    Since it is a fairly low aspect ration wing with a partial span Dbox wing perhaps balsa wood be OK (pun inteneded)


    Posted by Martyn K on 10/02/2012 23:01:37
    :
     
    I am not sure which parts you have cut that may be wrong.
    Regarding the wings - go for spruce spars...
    Martyn

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