ntsmith
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Everything posted by ntsmith
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Spectrum state themselves that the capacitor is specifically meant for ground vehicles and is NOT to be fitted to aircraft. Cant see their reasoning myself but I never fit one but aim to keep the voltage to a level that is high enough not to warrant problems. IE use a 6v system where possible and if a 4.8v system then a max a four standard servos and check the voltage by applying some force to two or three of the surfaces at once to simulate a high load and check what it drops down to. Spektrum now have a very fast rebind time but this is all off topic. The topic is Telemetry and in short I would only under exceptional circumstances not use it.
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Dont want to get into a rant about spektrum receivers. They are great but what else would you expect at 3.7v. I dont think theres much that will work out there, When the voltage is gone its gone - on any radio !
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As I stated it was the Receiver voltage and had I paid attention to it my crash would not have happend. Regarding update speed it still would have shown the very low voltage that was being seen at the receiver as it was an average voltage that it had fallen to and I agree always use a seperate BEC particuarly with more than four servos.
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what is the covering type. is it better than the black horse low winger?
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Here's a story: (and a thought!) The other day I crashed by beloved 48" Vanquish. After the crash the flight log (on the transmitter showed a lowest receiver voltage of 3.9v. I imagine it went lower than this and caused a "brown out". I had flown it a lot but that day was about the fourth or fifth flight with the added telemetry module and I take it that it may have been that which was the straw that broke the camels back. It was on that last flight that I was practising some flick rolls which take quite a bit of extra power from the servos so I am not sure if it was the telemetry module addition or if it was the added load. I little of each I suspect. I later found that there is an alarm on the DX8 which would have defaulted to 4.5v - had it been activated, so the fact is that used properly (not like I did) it can save a model. The fact that this one didn't get saved was because the system was new and I was unaware of its capability. I had recently changed my transmitter from a DX11 back to a DX8 which I loved and decided to return to but as I said, wasn't fuly conversant with its capability but it has made me a firm believer in telemetry systems; its yet another fail safe that if used properly can save your aircraft. I put it down to experience and I hope I and others can learn from my mistake.
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Apparently a Merco 61 would have weighed in at 12.7oz and my SC52 is 19oz. I'm glad to have found out as it would ended up decidedly nose heavy. Not sure about using any kind of "quick finish" now like Oracover as it would make maters worse. Solartex at minimum but perhaps this is goind to be a forced Nylon and dope job !
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The design calls for 1" balsa block tips but I have kept the tips light so far. There is only one servo located centrally and the sheeting will not be 100% over the surface. It wouldn't be too easy to access the bellcranks either if that were done. I am contemplating a 1/8" sheet and gussets but the dissadvantage that out weighs the weight benefit is that the tips are far less durable. Block or sheet is the question?
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Have got the wings joined. I used some 1/16" ply dihedral braces although none are shown on the plan. If not using them the alternative would be to splice the spars and use fibre glass bandage.
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It aint big, thats for sure. Its got 15mm added on its tail moment to compensate for lighter engine too! I cant believe this has supposed to have 1" under each tip for dihedral. Can anyone confirm? I would have guessed at about an inch under ONE tip, but thats a guess. I want to be sure before the halfs are joined which is where I am at present.
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I now have the firewall mounted as well as all the fuz underside sheeting done. The engine mount is fitted as well. Now trying to do some of the rear top of the fuz but am waiting for some 1/2" sheet to be delivered. I orderd some 3/4" sheet from Al's Models which will be used for the cockpit and forward of the cockpit sheeting. I will hollow the block out which is different to the slick-fli which I just used 3/16" sheet but with this bulbous cockpit I think this may be easier.
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BTW. If I get this finished in time I have the plans for a Kwik-Fli II and III
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Now I actualy have got a fuselage to work on! Mind you I aint got no wings yet !
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I agree - I am also looking forward to this - it also looks like a kwik fli 3 may be joining the fold so we will have a full house. I used to think that the Bar Fli was ugly sister of the two (fli) machines in vogue at the time. Time is a great corrector of views though Martyn THE BAR-FLI WAS THE UGLY SISTER. HMM Beauty must be in the eye of the beholder as I always thought it the best. Its the simplicity of the design and built for the purpose and at the end a really beautiful model. Certainly in comparison with todays modern aerobatic things !
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No probs there. When its inverted, its orange, just so you know it. Seriously, I learnt from flyer who flew VERY FAST and small models that colour shouldn't be relied on and in fact they all blend in after a certain distance anyway. Try flying your sim with the model in silouette mode, you soon get used to it. It will have some black trim applied but I just wanted to get it out and flying. There are about three things to do. 1/ Tighten but NOT file a flat on the steering tiller grub screw location. (It needs to be able to turn if it get a whack when its not supposed to! If it sits on a flat then the servo gets the shock and thats not good. Much better to just reposition the noseleg and re-tighten. 2. Add some more lead in the back. I am going to do what I did before but more so. That is to cut the botton a little and screw a chunk to the rear fuz side. 3. Adjust the engine throttle cable control range as this engine just idles at rediculous speeds and it can go lower ! I want to be able to cut it though some times. I have at least temporarily changed the metal spinner for a plastic JP one but only starting it a few times will tell if its man enough for the job. Strangely, nearly all flight surfaces were almost spot on for neutrals and for throws. Very pleased about my guesswork.
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I got the maided out the way today with good vis and temp at about 9c. the wind was about 9 going on 15knots. Lowish but changing direction all the time. The first landing nearly ended in disaster when the wind caught it just before touch down but the SC61 opened up without coughing or spluttering and I went round for a pretty good landing - imho! However, it is STILL significantly nose heavy even with some lead in the tail and the battery (6V placed behind the wing) so I am going to have to shove a bit more lead in the tail some where yet again. Anyway, IT FLIES
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With the first flight of my Slik-fli made today I can once again start back to work on my Bar-fli. I hope to have learnt something though and that is that engines, albeit less powerfull back then were lighter and the Slik-Fli came out quite nose heavy. It was suggested to use some thing like an OS55 on the Bar-Fli but I am not sure if thats "cricket". I am quite adamant that the .61 I bought for this will be too heavy. Its not only the engine but the radio equipment which has undergone significant changes in all these years. Solartex or nylon and dope? Now theres another question. I wont ask the wife I know what she will say!
