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Mark Lubbock

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Everything posted by Mark Lubbock

  1. I use a GWS pico for all my micro models-never had any problems & assuming it is a small model, range isn't an issue-I fly my IFO using one of these & fly is as far away as I am comfortable vision wise. You can always save weight on some recievers by dispesing with the case-you would be surprised at how much a bit of plastic can weigh! Hope this helps.
  2. Many thanks David & others for the kind comments.   There must be many old free plans out there from that era both R/C & F/F that would make excellent subjects for todays small elecric motors-this power setup would be ok for anything originally powered by, say,  a Cox Pee Wee .020 to a 1-1.5cc Diesel of the era. Got to be worth trawling through the stockpile of old mags? As for me, I have just recieved another of these little motors & after the sucess of the Elf intend to design a similar size but more scalish design-watch this space!!
  3. I have a bit more info now:   The motor is a 22g micro brushless from Giant Cod-comes with a heatsink stick mount, 5"prop & saver all for around £7! Wattmeter arrived today so here are some figures-On the supplied prop & 900mAh 2s lipo it draws 41.5W flat out & around 20W in what I estimate to be the 'cruise' power.  The 20 min flight times would appear to confirm this. The model can be made to 'hover' in a slight breeze with no sighn of tip stalling. The model will roll & loop on the recommended settings, but I have reprogrammed the radio to give this on 'low' rates & about 60% more on 'high'. Not had a chance to fly it like this yet. Heres another couple of covered photos:
  4. I'm not surprised Bob!!! Looking at some old engine tests, 120W is about what a 1950's 2.5cc diesel would have put out!!!   My wattmeter arrived today, excellent piece of kit from GC & only ordered Mon evening, & yes, it shows 41.5W flat out & around 20W in the estimated cruise. (I am an electrical engineer, so my Ohm's Law etc. should be right!!!)
  5. Quick update: I have just put an ammeter on the model & it draws 5.8A a full throttle & around 3A at what I estimate I fly it at normally. Roughly assuming 7v this is a 21W cruise & 40W flat out. I think this shows what can be done with a light, efficient model-it compares pretty well to the Cox's output, given the weight saving. I have just ordered a Wattmeter from Giant Cod, I will update this post with some more accurate readings when it arrives. The motor I am using is a GC 22g motor which comes with a 5x3 prop (which I am using) for around £7. Hope this helpsEdited By Mark Lubbock on 02/09/2009 11:31:52
  6. You have to remember, most small ic engines need a very small prop to achieve their max power & are normally run below peak revs, even Coxes. Couple this to the largeish props swung by a low Kv outrunner, any loss in efficiency is soon made up. In my experience this seems to be true-my 2lb weight Veron Deacon flew well on a 1.5cc diesel producing around .1hp/80 or so watts-the performance on a cheap bell motor drawing 7-8A from a 2s lipo (50-55W) is at least as good. As for weight, the ic model has to carry a flight nicad-a 4xAA pack weighs 110g as opposed to 50g for a 900 2s lipo, so add a bit of fuel & the balance swings in favour of the small electric, combined with the micro gear we have today we can achieve a much lower flight weight. The original version of the model pictured had to put up with what passes for micro gear in 1986, a 225 mAh nicad + a sliding servo mech for the elevons & needed balllast to balance correctly-we really have never had it so good.   I love my IC engines & am still not convinced for high power applications that electric flight makes sense, but I think that for these small models lipos & brushless motors are an absolute revelationEdited By Mark Lubbock on 01/09/2009 20:21:44
  7. I have just looked at the Cox engines page of Wikepaedia.   Here, the author conveniently gives the power output in Watts for some of the engines:   Babe Bee .049 = 42W Black Widow .049  = 60W Tee Dee .049 = 72W   The model below was originally designed for a Black Widow & comes out approx 30% lighter with electric power making for a sparkling performance on around 50W.   It's worth looking around old magazines for old free plans for small engines as many would have a new lease of life with modern small & cheap brushless motors & super light servos & Rx's   Hope this is of use to someone.  
  8. We tend to just sit around in the sun(?), chat & have a drink unless we are going somewhere-I just do a bit here & there when I get bored with all that, but yes, my Wife Carole is great (think it saves her having to talk to me!) If you have a look at my other photos, you will see another i did a couple of years ago-still flying well. wouldn't be surprised if OK for EDF with some mods-I will get a wattmeter on it & see what power it uses (I suspect around 50W but it flies happily on half throttle & nearly vertical on full). The model spans 28" & has 240sq in of wing area, so is quite a floater but also shows a good turn of speed & seems virtually unstallable on the recommended control throws.Edited By Mark Lubbock on 01/09/2009 09:48:31
  9. I like to give myself something to do during our hols in case the weather turns nasty-in the event, the model was built & flown in 1 week, draw your conclusions there!! Model is ELF 16, a Dave Boddington design originally a free plan in RCM&E in 1986. Original used a Cox .049 & a sliding servo mech for the elevons. Mine is electric powered & uses giant Cod''s 2.4GHz computer radio, 8g servos & a 900mAh 2s lipo & GC micro motor. Flies for around 20 mins without flattening the battery & weighs 11.1 oz, compared with the original''s 1 lb. shows how far things have progressed. Flies superbly as do all DB''s designs I have built
  10. Hi Myron-they have the recievers in stock now-I have just bought one of their 2.4GHz computer sets & some RX's-they are truly excellent for the price (£52 for Tx & Rx, £10 for the Rx!) & perform superbly. The budget non computer set is only £25 & even has a V-tail mixer!
  11. Hi Danny,   I always do as you describe & go over the edge of the tape with a matching paint first-just a thin stripe along the edge does it-I expect clear will do OK also. The problem with liquid masks is that they also have to be put on either freehand or with masking/stencils & creep can occur here & if you can mask freehand, you may as well paint freehand-not as difficult as it sounds, but you do need Artists 'lining' brushes for best results
  12. Thanks Simon, I was thinking of something like that-maybe a Harrods bag for that 'up market' look!.   However, I have found some metallic wrapping in a card shop in a very attractive metallic green, only £1 for 5 sheets-it will take 2 sheets to cover the IFO & it seems to be a metallised Mylar, so should be ideal. I will experiment first & let you know how I get on. It's available in silver, red, gold & blue, so may be quite versatile, especially if it heat shrinks.
  13. My IFO covering is showing it's age & the covering film used on it doesn't seem to be available anywhere now & heatshrink films are, I suspect, not suitable. I can see why, the 'unused' adhesive on the open side would pick up a lot of dirt & apparrently, a heat sealing iron causes bent CF to crack. Has anyone any suggestions on what to use & where to get it please?
  14. I placed an order with them around 2330 on Sunday night-All the items ordered arrived today. My order totalled around £46 including postage & the cost locally (if indeed they had it in stock) would have been well over £100! Excellent service-thanks
  15. As far as I know the only powered aircraft you can fly without a licence are foot launched machines such as Paramotors (which I fly) & powered hang gliders. They are still subject to the ANO just as we are when flying our models. Notwithstanding this, I did approx 12 months of training before I felt competent to actually fly. Even if this guy had a licence, he was in breach of the ANO in endangering not only himself & his aircraft, but those around him. It's just lucky he got away with it, he was obviously out of control & that machine could have gone anywhere. Just think if one of the models had also hit it-it would be in the press that "model plane brings down aircraft" with all the attendant bad press for us. Doesn't bear thinking about.
  16. Hi,   I buy all my diesel from Southern Modelcraft-they are at most of the major shows, but I'm not sure if they mail order. Half a gallon is £10 ish & is excellent stuff. Ether can be bought from chemical suppliers ( not from Boots as I used to in the '70s!!), but is expensive & be prepared to be asked some questions as it is also used by the drugs fratentity, I believe. An alternative source if you are desperate is Easy Start, about £3 for a 300ml can. Hope this helps
  17. I do the same & yes they should do a discount for OAPs. I did cosford a few years ago & it was excellent
  18. if you want a model of similar type to the Guilliows kits the West Wings kits are very good-also Flair do a few small rubber jobs (or they used to, at least)
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