DH 82A

4s LIFE PACKS --- Puffin models.

If you have a steerable t/wheel, and are taxying around, hold full up on elevator. For take off, hold full up and steer with rudder, as speed increases ease off on elevator allow tail to rise to flying position. When flying speed is reached, gently apply up elevator, and model will take off.

Good old BMFA- if it moves, bring on a test for it.

If there is no light on the Futaba receiver, when the Transmitter is on, then ,either the receiver is not bound to the transmitter, or the receiver is not getting power from the Rx battery. Read the Futaba manual and make sure the receiver is bound, before doing anything else.

Are you using a Futaba transmitter? If so, the throttle channel will need reversing from standard, before any ESC will respond.

Yes, built one many years ago, powered by early O.S. 60 f/s. Was underpowered with this, but took off and flew well, but slowly, needing care on the turns. With more power would be an excellent scale project.

Another vote for 4-Max, very helpful.

How did we all manage before the A test etc. was thought of.

If you colour dope with the stain, each coat will darken the colour. Best to get the colour with the first coat, then use clear after. Also as said above, spraying would be better than brushing.

Isn't that what I suggested way back in the thread ? Contact a local French Polisher or furniture maker and ask for a small quantity of oak cellulose stain. Offer to pay of course!

If there is a furniture finishing business, or French polisher near you, you could enquire if they would supply a small amount of Oak cellulose stain, this will mix with the dope. (I have been 50 yrs in polishing and furniture finishing.)

If the motor is supplied with the two prop drivers, as in the picture on the w/site, there is no need to move the shaft. If the motor is mounted bolted to the bulkhead, use the "X" mount and the propdriver with three small holes, and the collet on the shaft at the back. If the motor mounts with the shaft through the front former, use the other "collet" propdriver.

Posted by Robin Kearney on 09/03/2014 15:29:03: Talking of ebay finds, I discovered this Howard Metcalfe Phantom last night, did anybody ever have one? I always fancied one years ago and thought this might be worth a cheeky bid. Yes, I had one years ago, flew very well with an OS 10FSR, or 15.

I've used roundhead chipboard screws for years. The coarse thread gives a good grip in plastic bearers, and in a crash the head is likely to break off, releasing the engine, and hopefully avoiding damage.

BMFA really opened a can of worms when they instigated the A test.

Posted by Bandit on 13/02/2014 17:22:43: No-one said it was a licence. It can be a REQUIREMENT at some clubs and I don't blame them as it sets a standard of competency often overlooked in a club environment for 'mates'. One club I fly at occasionally does not require an A and I have had close misses on the flight line where planes nearly hit me, the other requires an A and there is none of that I wonder why... Again why wouldn't you? It nowhere compares to swimming the channel or climbing Everest or running the 4 minute mile as those require a much higher level of commitment. Any competent flyer should find it a doddle and it costs nothing, only takes about 20 minutes and you probably at the flying field already! Sorry but that's my opinion no offence intended No offence taken. What I mean is like a car driving licence, you cannot fly/drive alone until you pass the test. I have seen pilots with an alphabet of certificates acting like hooligans.

Posted by Bandit on 13/02/2014 16:39:53: Why wouldn't you want to attain a certified higher level of flying? For the same reason that I don't want to climb Everest, or swim the Channel, run a 4 minute mile. The A test is supposed to be a personal achievement, not a licence as it has become.

Posted by Stevo on 07/02/2014 18:35:52: Nice link! Well, I suppose an easy way would be to install a blade fuse holder, so it attaches to the fuselage side or wherever. Simply plug in a a blade fuse and fly... You will be covered up to 100A that way... and no potential voltage drop over a MOSFET! Where can the 100A blade fuse be obtained, and how big is it?

On the full-size Mossie the props turn toward the cockpit at the "top". It's always best to parallel the batteries on a twin.

I notice only ONE prop, is entered in the calc, with two, 40 deg. climbouts and mild aeros are predicted.

There is a very simple way to calculate the area of a tapered wing. Using the dimensions from BEB's drawing above--- Take the root chord 17". add the squared off tip chord, 5".= 22" Take the span, root to tip of one wing 28.5". Multiply 22 x 28.5 = 627 sq. ins. What this does in effect is to add the two " triangles" and make a rectangle. I thought everyone knew this idea.

Ah, beat me to it.

Yes, the ESC drops the volts to about 5 volts. Plug the small Rx type plug into the Rx, the two thicker wires into the battery, observing polarity ( red to red, black to black ) Before connecting battery switch on Tx, and close throttle.

It's simple, an electric model is not " safe " until the battery is disconnected. In the same way as any mains electric appliance is not safe until the plug is removed from the wall socket.

From your modelshop, a 4 cell receiver battery. Nowadays it will be a "nimh" , not nicad. if possible, get one called "Eneloop", these last a long time before they need charging. You can use the charger that came with your radio outfit.