Ronos

Hello, I have a 5050/60 850kv Brushless motor with a APC 14x7 electric prop on a 80c ESC with a Turnigy 4S 5000mAh lipo, powering a VQ Hurricane 60 weighing in at 4.5kg. Please bear in mind that the power plant is recommended from the supplier. When powered up to full throttle there seem, in my opinion,not as much thrust as i would expect. Anyone got a opinion, just want to be sure before the maiden. Thanks Ron. Edited By Ronos on 28/01/2020 12:15:59

I know this is a old thread but I hope there is still someone out there. Just got the VQ Hurricane 60 and got the Electrospeed Boost 60 pack from Hobby Plastic, which comprises off, Electrospeed 5055/60 580kv Brushless outrunner and a XP2 80A SBEC ESC. With a APC 14X7 electric prop, on a Turnigy 4s 14.8v 3200mAh lipo, but a full throttle it seems a bit under powered and getting about 7300rpm with a tachometer. The motor and esc is what the is recommended so should be ok, or not. Your replies will be appreciated.

Cymaz, I have the pdf file, I got the Harmony second hand and is very nose heavy at 90-100mm, was wondering if this was the correct CogG. I have a seagull mosquito and in the book it says 150mm, but the best CofG is 130mm.

I know this is a old thread, put can anyone of you guys remember what you set the C of G at.

Thanks all for you reply.

Thanks Steve, 10 yrs that's a while ago. Did you balance it the right way up or like a warbirds, upside down??

Just got one second hand, fitted with two Irvine 53 they run nice. What's the c of g, book says 90-100mm and do you balance it upside down or the wright way up. Mine is very nose heavy, but the guy I got if off said that's how it flew.

Hi Jon, the dot is in line with the push rods at TDC, and the valves are set at 0.05.

I have put it back on glow, just to see what the difference is, and the answer is not a lot. I built the test bed up so that it would run inverted, like in the aircraft, the top end rpm got to a max of 7900 and would idle at 2000rpm, that's with the same prop and new glow plug. I think it is what it is and the proof will be be in the planes performance, on takeoff and in the air. Hopefully it will have a happy ending.

Hi Jon, sorry about not getting back to you,. The engine has little compression, would this affect the rpm

Just a update and a question. Turned the fuel tank upside down to get it nearer the center line of the carb, but was still above it, can't drop it any lower because of the airframe, so went the whole hog and got a Walbro carb from Morris Mini Motors. Anyway my question is, it idles at 1800-2000 rpm, max revs 7500rpm with a 14x8 APC, but transition in the middle, 1/2 throttle, is crap, spluttering, I have alter the mix on the low end a top end to see if its the mix but doesn't alter the poor running. It's just the middle section, idle and top end fine. Baffled.

Been for a quick go before back shift. Retarded the timing sensor about 5mm and worked back from there. I would say it's about 2mm retarded from my initial starting point which was set using the timing sensor from Just engines. Tick over is quite steady at 2300rpm top end about 7600rpm, but that's no inverted and the centre of the tank slightly below the centre line of the carb. Jon, when I get time I will invert the engine on the aircraft and see if I can lower the tank, see if it makes a difference.

Yeah sort of defeats the object of converting, running glow. I might be unlucky, but I think I'll be sticking with glow or sell my glow's to fund the change over to petrol engines. Don't think I'll be buying another conversion kit. Thanks all, I'll keep you posted on how I get on.

You don't hear of the full cost of glow/ petrol conversion. Yeah you save money on fuel, but the initial cost of the conversion kit, the sensor/magnet collars (if you don't want to take the engine apart to drill two hole for the sensor bracket) and maybe the additional carb, for a few extra quid you can buy a proper petrol engine.

Hi Martin, that entered my head about a Walbro pumped carb might solve the problem, and you are correct about the needle settings on the glow carburetor. The top end needle is about 1/2 a turn from being all the way in and you only have to turn the bottom end 1mm and it can either rich or lean, small margins. What I have noticed is that nearly all the videos on YouTube off these conversations are on test beds and are all upright, I haven't found one yet, running inverted.

Jon, I looked at the tank position in the aircraft and it came to mind that it might be related because it is higher than the carb ,where as on the bed the centre line on the tank and cab where about the same. I turned the engine upwards last night and the carb is in a much better position. I will try it later today. Thanks

Just converted my SC120FS to petrol using the kit from Just engines. While on the stand it run and idled great, but after putting it back in the aircraft, inverted, can not get the idle down below 3000rpm with out it cutting out where as before it was holding at about 2000rpm. Has anyone done the same and had the same problem.

Thanks Denis, I think you've saved my life. I can get hold of a left DX8 one, but only right DX9 ones.

John Lee, thanks I'll have a look

The thing is,I dropped my DX9 and when I took the throttle/rudder gimble out it has snapped the carbon bush for the rudder. Cant see getting a spare, so I think only alternative is to get a second hand left gimble and replace the lot.

Would a left hand gimble of a DX8, fit and work in a DX9.

Thanks for reply. Denis all pipe work and bung air tight, check all that when I took in out of the aircraft and run it on test bed and it run great, put it back in aircraft run it in garden great, took to site first flight great, second flight trouble. Gangster, thought ab out different fuel, but because I have mainly 4 stroke and run these on Lazer 5, but it should run ok on this, but is a option.  Old geezer. Am running a No8 plug, like what has been said in another post might try a enya No3 Edited By Ronos on 25/05/2019 13:23:51

Come across this thread,as I too are having top end running problems with mine. It has had a few tanks through it, both on the bed and in the air, about a gallon in all, it was running ok at first then it started to dead stick at 3/4 to full throttle. It ticks over great,runs great up till 1/2 throttle, no stutter to full throttle ,runs ok when you point the aircraft skywards, runs ok for the first tank, then it's down hill from there. Fill the tank up again, start the engine, ok, idle ok, up to 1/2 ok ,take it to full slowly dies, take it back to 1/2 it picks up again, but it doesn't do it all the time, I mean you can take it to full throttle and it's ok, take it back to idle then full and it's back again. Any ideas

Hi Frank, it could be the micro switch, it looked like it was coming from that area, but the board is covered in some sort of epoxy resin, so I think it would be hard to fix.

Bob, the mechanics were OK. I had just taken them out of my Seafire and were going to put them in my Hanger9 P51, which requires the 10mm strut ready. I have a set of the 60-120 which take the 5mm pin ang put them in the Seafire. After installing the strut ready ones in the P51, I was just testing them,when they burnt out. The strut ready one's are a slightly wider than the one's that take the 5mm pin,probably to accommodate the 10mm strut.