maurice northcott

They did use 3 Bf110 to tow a Gigant, but all 3 Bf110 were totally separate aircraft... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D-NE8vX25I  This was rather dangerous and led to the Zwilling described earlier Edited By maurice northcott on 20/03/2017 20:36:23

Sorry chaps, its fictitious. Was built by an American plastic modeller for a "What if....."

Thats great Dwain, just the type of thing I was after. Cheers matey..

Dwain, its a 190D. Thanks mo

Hi Cymaz et al I dont know where 20kg came from. My original post stated "... weight about 20lbs." But I am more interested in a suggested power train......   maurice Edited By maurice northcott on 18/03/2017 15:35:08

Thanks Pete B I think even I would have trouble making an 80-inch 190 coming in at 20kg finished weight  maurice Edited By maurice northcott on 18/03/2017 15:26:32

Hi All Anybody got direct experience of putting electric motor in a model of the following size & type please? If so, could you please suggest a power train for the following? Size 80-inch span and length, weight about 20lbs. Wing area: 7.2sq.ft. Wing loading (calculated) approx. 2.78lbs/sq ft. Type: WW2 fighter of good performance. Many thanks in advance, maurice

Thanks Dwain. Well since the last time I posted, I spent the 4 intervening days at the Field, so not much more done. Today was as so often in scale modelling, a lot of thinking, quite a bit of doing but not much to show for it. Some more work done on the fin.... the fin cap was roughly shaped and more whittling and sanding around the lower leading edge and the base block was added on the right hand side..... I think it is gradually getting there..... Some more shaping of the undertail fairing and the addition of the bulge blanks. The pins and tape taken from the engine cowling bulges. The photo shows how the bulges have retained the curve that was induced by soaking them in boiling water and strapping them to the cowl with a bit of 3/32-inch balsa below the centre of them to accentuate the curve. When dry and released the induced curve reduces a little but is still sufficient that no stresses are induced when finally gluing........ Off the the Field again tomorrow if the weather remains clement..... See you soon....... maurice Edited By maurice northcott on 14/03/2017 20:14:24

Hello All, Please bear in mind I have written the operations for each item below as if it were carried out in one go – they weren’t – each operation on the various subjects was carried out as time allowed. Consequently the various operations on each component was carried out in rough parallel. All this followed a visit to the dentist L Well, first up was the easiest, the fin cap. A couple of blanks cut out with the bandsaw then glued and clamped together. Shortly after they were shaped in profile with the sanding disk. Then they were matched to the top fin rib – they were trimmed with the Permagrit and then glued in place with pva and pinned. Shown in the first photo, although camera angle has enlarged some bits and reduced others, same as I told the wife. Next was the rear fin extension. This was one method used to enlarge the fin area of the full-size 190D. Like most other WW2 fighters, the 190 series suffered from “snaking” and “porpoising” and various methods were tested to reduce these effects. It was a simple parallel section fitted to the rear of the fin post 125mm wide (to scale, almost exactly 24mm). Back to the model – two blanks were bandsawn from ½-inch light balsa and pva applied to one face of one blank (photo 2). This was smeared evenly over the face with a bit of spare wood (photo 3). The second blank was offered up to the first, straightened up and kept in place by a couple of pins until the clamps could be applied (photo 4). The two blanks for the upper parts of the engine cowl bulges were measured and cut out of soft ¼ sheet balsa – I chose soft because I knew they would have to bend a bit. One of them was pinned into place on the forward upper cowl along the hinge line in that position. The rear end tapers off over what would on a D-9 be the top gun cowl, but the D-11 did not carry guns in that position (photo 5). Photo 6 shows a view from the front to show 2 things – one is the amount of bending needed so that the blank stays in contact with the cowling (I think it will be necessary to soak the blank in water and bend it over a former and let it dry overnight – when doing this I find it best to bend it a bit more tightly than is necessary and it will return a little, but still retaining the amount of bend required). The other thing shown in this photo is a straight edge running down from the blank until it touched the side of the cowling – this will be the approximate line of the lower part of the bulge. I am thinking at the moment that the best way to produce the lower section of the bulge will be soft sheet again, but with micro-balloons filler forming the absolute lowest part where it blends into the cowl. We shall see…. Last are the often missed bulges around the tailwheel retraction area. The rough-hewn tail underfairing is shown pinned in position in photo 7 (first attempt at fin in the background - never throw anything away until 3 models further down the line, otherwise you will find you need it. The next photo (number 8) shows the tail underfairing flat on the board and should explain pictorially why the bulges are necessary – when the tailwheel retracts, the front of it would retract into the hole in the underfairing (just), but look at the aft end, its far too narrow for the tailwheel, consequently the need for the bulge both sides. The last photo (9) shows the oversized bulge blanks alongside the tail underfairing. When fitted and hollowed, these will allow the tailwheel to retract. However, I will not be fitting or finally shaping them until after the underfairing is finally fixed. That’s most of it for today, there was a bit more work done on the fin but I am sure you have seen enough of that to date .. I know I have, but work will continue Cheers all mauric

No not been hibernating - been out on the porch with the old grey dog and whittling. Well, metaphorically, at least. Been gradually chipping away at the fuselage/fin leading edge transformation piece. Been checking so many photos in so many books, and also using a Revell 1/32 plastic 190D - I know where they got their information from and it looks so so accurate, so why not? Never fails to amaze me how time flies when researching anything.... Off to  the Club tonight, so it will be tomorrow I will commence on some other details - the bulges both sides of the front fuselage (Further research indicates these are far larger than previously thought) and the oft-missed bulge both sides of the tailwheel opening. Also fit the fin cap and the parallel section added to the rear of the fin post.   Edited By maurice northcott on 08/03/2017 15:05:55 Edited By maurice northcott on 08/03/2017 15:07:03

Thank you "bouncebounce crunch". My opinion is that I have been making models (including free flight) from when I was a sprog - I was so young when I started I cannot put a firm age on it. I was inspired by a 1/72 Stirling made by my Father, who served in them amongst others during WW2. That model was carved from a hardwood but not balsa, the canopy and turrets were made from perspex and it was painted in the paints held on the Squadron. From that I became aware of "scale colour" when I was about 8 years. RC started for me in 1973. During my modelling life I had a number of tutors who helped me in many ways and In gratitude to all them, I do now like to pass what I have learned onto others. I do still retain the ability to learn something new and try to do this at least once a day. Be the fiercest critic of your own work and never, ever give up in the face of adversity. Love your "nom de plume" Thanks again maurice   Edited By maurice northcott on 08/03/2017 07:47:45

Hi All New fin and fuselage/fin translation basically constructed - see photo below. Please disregard the "belling out" at lower section, still got to do that bit. To my eye it is much more akin to a 190 than that thing I had there a day or 2 back. Happy (or at least a happier) bunny......... Still a bit of work to do on it today, so I will push on..........