Stuart Z
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Posts posted by Stuart Z
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Thanks for your thoughts on this.
ED
I do like glass clothing and airbrushing but as said it is time consuming but the airbrushing is fun. Using film I find frustrating. I was wondering though is it heavier using glass cloth?
BBHow did you find the models performance having glassed it? What engine are you using? On the Acrowot is was thinking OS46SF.
S
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Hi
I’m thinking of building an Acrowot and covering with glass cloth then airbrushing. Read somewhere the weight difference is not a major issue. Has anyone done this?
Or is film the only way to go?
I’ve glass clothed funfighters a few times, quite an easy process really.
Welcome thoughts on this
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GG
Sorry it's been a while but finally got round to it - definitely helps - pulled the rod out and treated most of it to lightweight oil. Makes a big difference to the control movement. I did not oil the end that went through the servo arm just in case it slipped. Hopefully it will be less of a drag on the servo and the battery. BTW I finished up with E-tronix 17G servo in place of the Century one, I note that is still out of stock. The story of radio control modelling at the moment.
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Eric
It’s the salt that makes the current flow.
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Eric
Was this salt water?
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Leccyflyer
I’m following advice from 4Max. I soak them for about 4 weeks-seem very dead by then.
I don’t like Lipos at all and this seems a good way to kill them off.
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I soak mine in salted water for a few weeks. The they can go to tip for battery recycling. 4 Max have a data sheet explains how to dispose of them safely.
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Well, I tried the Radient servos and found them on the small side, bearing in mind mine is a replacement fuz and the servo tray may be different to that supplied in the complete plane. I have also tried the Etronic servo and that was about 1mm too long so out with the file.
Bearing in mind I have built a few planes in
my time it has prompted the following comments
The access to the servos is very restricted and my size 11 hands are not good for the job so it was like surgery with long tweezers and long nose pliers
The rudder pushrod is actually tight in the tubing making the servo work very hard.
The pushrod is not in line with the servo.
In a conventional model all things that can be easily managed-but not in this lump of foam?
Probably now put to one side as the rudder is used a lot and this will cause battery drain, shortening flights.
Still have a viable Ruckus but after that it’s back to the IC models. So much easier to work on.
Just my opinion.
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And
I read recently that the cost to the Fire Brigade was something like 5 times committed time of EB fires than electric fires in EVs. Is this the unseen cost of electric?
It will all work it’s way through society but I wonder at what real cost?????
Mad world, glad I’m heading to end of the trip rather than the beginning!
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Agreed, the hobby will evolve and people will choose what they want! Important though that people understand options. It seems nowadays, people follow the shortest/ easiest route and don’t learn what make the important choices, now is the time to carry forward skills of today. All too easy to follow the crowd . Skills lost will remain lost. So sad.
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Thanks. As are Force and SH 2T engines and no doubt a wide range of second hand engines. You are also right that people spend more in the social arena so the cost of fuel is often insignificant.
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1 hour ago, Cuban8 said:
It very much depends - I don't agree that eletric needs to be prohibitively expensive when converting an IC model. Maybe a large and heavy type but most sport types of around the usual 55" to 65" size or thereabouts are usually very viable. There's enough info around to prevent mishandling and there's really no need for any confusion regarding electric setups given the advice available from sources like 4Max.
IC noise is not necessary as you say - the old Irvine Q series engines proved that years ago.
Thanks for your thoughts. As I said I did look at cost and it was more than I would want to pay as it would have cost nearly as much as a small foamy model. The batteries are another large cost and the associated issues with Lipos. So I struggled to justify spending the money. I’m happy with IC as I don’t like having batteries stored in numbers. I will be sad (or gone) when IC is not viable.
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2 minutes ago, GaryW said:
Long Live The Glow Plug
Absolutely!
(Fuel stored at one end of garage in unplugged fridge, batteries in BatSafe at the other end).
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And I transport my batteries to the flying field in ammo boxes. Has to be said though I much prefer IC. So not that often.
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13 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said:
Hope the fridge isn't turned on. Flammable liquids stored in the fridge are a serious explosion risk, a loose cap or slight leak can lead to a build up of flammable vapour which a spark from the thermostat switch can ignite.
The lab I worked in had a special fridge for storing flammable liquids which had all the electrical equipment on the outside of the fridge isolated from the interior.
Suprisingly I knew that. It’s an old fridge that is both light proof and heat / cold proof and unused. It stands there as a store cupboard and the fuel fit fits in nicely. I also store the few Lipos I have in special Bat Safe boxes. I keep the risks low.
Some leccy fliers I know have large puffed up batteries that I would not give house (or garage) room. -
Sadly I understand that feeling only too well
Still my stocks will last me! -
It’s sad to think IC is disappearing I think the IC engines still have a great deal going for them and a lot more character. Learning to manage them is something to be learnt -yes- but electrics leave me confused and Lipo’s are a potential disaster if mishandled and can explode in the extreme. I looked at the cost of converting one of my IC models to electric and the cost was alarming. The cost of batteries is significant to the extent that the project has been shelved. Let alone having additional batteries in the garage. Fortunately I have plenty of engines still in stock. I have enough fuel to last me and it is stable in the fridge. A big argument against IC is the noise but a good silencer solves that and I have the silencers to cope with all my engines. Seems that most model shows and many clubs have users of large petrol engine some of which are both large and quite loud, but these seem to be quite acceptable.
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I have Phoenix 5.5 not modern not the best but I use the same radio on mine as you do. Phoenix is obsolete but someone with a younger brain than mine will probably come along and tell you where you can download it. I believe that can be done legally.
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Kim
Certainly
Will give this a try when the new servos arrive. I tend always to use rudder so will see how this helps
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Shaun
Thanks for your input. Probably the same on mine. Not worth an autopsy. New servos on order.
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Thanks Chris. Point taken and I agree totally. It is a rudder servo that is oscillating rather than rotating. Probably OK to fly but I replace rather than put the plane or people at risk. I find it needs rudder to do good turns (drags it’s tail in turns) and of course it takes a beating on the ground.
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Thanks Colin. I was just looking at the Etronix versions. I’ll take a look at the Radient ones as well. My big concern now is getting any servo in with my XXL hands!
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Thanks Martin. I guessed that they may be similar but I noted that the Century ones had no spec given so was difficult to make a comparison
Thanks again
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Hi
Has anyone used alternative servos in their Riot? Century apparently out of stock so looking for alternatives.
17g as I understand but are they all the same?
Look forward to hearing from you
S
Glass cloth or Film
in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Posted
BB
Sounds exactly what I want - simplicity and ease of maintenance.
Thanks
S