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Stuart Z

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Everything posted by Stuart Z

  1. Great to see this build. I tried the “Lite” one and definitely did not like it. Somehow building a built up wing without a plan to pin down to was not a pleasure! I had the “older” version in the 80’s - it was brilliant.
  2. I use 2 stroke fuel with synthetic oil. Exhaust extensions push the exhaust further out so wiping down is minimal. Also run the engine dry ( after the flight) so there is no residue to leak out.
  3. Glad to hear you’ve got to the bottom of it. A very odd problem indeed. Now enjoy !
  4. This is sad news - do we have a list of remaining kit builders that are UK based. I know we are still lucky to have Chris Foss out there but who else? I like to support UK businesses where I can.
  5. My Super 60 used to zoom towards heaven - until I moved the C of G forwards. S
  6. I don’t think it will cause major issues so well worth going to the front of the CofG range
  7. Nigel All the foregoing has been a useful discussion but your plane would be difficult to adjust and still look good. If it has been assembled from new and is assembled per the instructions, I don't see that you should need to go further than a call to Century UK. As said these are good planes that fly well, not the most refined in construction but pretty hard to assemble wrong. A few screws and an ally wing joiner rod. The wing and tail fit as per the moulded wing seat / tail plane slots. A call to Century seems the next step.
  8. Given that this model is moulded in wing and tail slots I suspect any wing packing will not solve it. Checking the incidences will at least eliminate any production lines errors. Never seen a Ruckus fly that badly. Therefore a thorough check of the basics is called for.
  9. It’s a shame, it’s a good flying fairly aerobatic plane and lots of fun. It’s worth finding out what’s wrong. S
  10. You’ll need to pack the trailing edge, not the leading edge. A couple of incidence meters would be useful. My Super 60 had a similar problem and as engine adjust was awkward the tail plane incidence was changed. Not such an easy fix on a Ruckus. Do you know someone that has the same plane so that you can compare. Incidence meters will help. S
  11. Personally no, but someone here will know.
  12. CoG same as mine. Washers same as mine. If I’d built it myself I’d be checking wing and tailplane - but these are moulded in. Have you changed the motor at all? Might be worth increasing the top row of washers for a test flight ? As CoG is correct no need to ask about the weights as the balance is correct.
  13. BB Sounds exactly what I want - simplicity and ease of maintenance. Thanks S
  14. Thanks for your thoughts on this. ED I do like glass clothing and airbrushing but as said it is time consuming but the airbrushing is fun. Using film I find frustrating. I was wondering though is it heavier using glass cloth? BB How did you find the models performance having glassed it? What engine are you using? On the Acrowot is was thinking OS46SF. S
  15. Hi I’m thinking of building an Acrowot and covering with glass cloth then airbrushing. Read somewhere the weight difference is not a major issue. Has anyone done this? Or is film the only way to go? I’ve glass clothed funfighters a few times, quite an easy process really. Welcome thoughts on this
  16. GG Sorry it's been a while but finally got round to it - definitely helps - pulled the rod out and treated most of it to lightweight oil. Makes a big difference to the control movement. I did not oil the end that went through the servo arm just in case it slipped. Hopefully it will be less of a drag on the servo and the battery. BTW I finished up with E-tronix 17G servo in place of the Century one, I note that is still out of stock. The story of radio control modelling at the moment. S
  17. Eric It’s the salt that makes the current flow.
  18. Eric Was this salt water?
  19. Leccyflyer I’m following advice from 4Max. I soak them for about 4 weeks-seem very dead by then. I don’t like Lipos at all and this seems a good way to kill them off.
  20. I soak mine in salted water for a few weeks. The they can go to tip for battery recycling. 4 Max have a data sheet explains how to dispose of them safely. S
  21. Well, I tried the Radient servos and found them on the small side, bearing in mind mine is a replacement fuz and the servo tray may be different to that supplied in the complete plane. I have also tried the Etronic servo and that was about 1mm too long so out with the file. Bearing in mind I have built a few planes in my time it has prompted the following comments The access to the servos is very restricted and my size 11 hands are not good for the job so it was like surgery with long tweezers and long nose pliers The rudder pushrod is actually tight in the tubing making the servo work very hard. The pushrod is not in line with the servo. In a conventional model all things that can be easily managed-but not in this lump of foam? Probably now put to one side as the rudder is used a lot and this will cause battery drain, shortening flights. Still have a viable Ruckus but after that it’s back to the IC models. So much easier to work on. Just my opinion.
  22. And I read recently that the cost to the Fire Brigade was something like 5 times committed time of EB fires than electric fires in EVs. Is this the unseen cost of electric? It will all work it’s way through society but I wonder at what real cost????? Mad world, glad I’m heading to end of the trip rather than the beginning!
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