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Ariel

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  1. Light Burn will be the next step. Things have come a long way since the Keil Kraft Robin, a broken Gillette razor blade and my mum's dress making pins on an upturned coffee table.
  2. So, it can be done. The process is: Convert your Auto Cad dwg file to pdf. I used FastCad which is about £16 for a year subscription which allows you to convert it to pdf. There are doubtless others. It does a very good High resolution Job though. By default it shows white lines on a black background. Right click the image to reverse it to black on white in the fly-out menu. Take the pdf files to your local photographic shop. They used Photoshop to convert it to Tiff for me. Excellent result with no loss of detail. Cost me £3 per file. I took a memory stick with me and they saved it to that. You can now import the Tiff images into Fusion to use as a canvas to draw over once the images are calibrated. If you have the paid for version of Fusion you can just import the .dwg file. Bit rich for me though! If you have Photoshop you can do all the conversion yourself from the pdf file. Photoshop can't read dwg files though. Sledge hammers and walnuts maybe but I'm happy and somebody might come looking one day
  3. Thanks for the offer PDB. I have the PDF files which I used FastCad to create so I think that bit is covered I'm going to take a walk to the local photo shop and see if they can do it for me. It's the resolution that is the issue. It can be done in Preview on the Mac but the result is a bit naff as the text is illegible.
  4. I have some line drawings in .dwg and .pdf format that I want to insert as a Canvas into Fusion. I have the personal use version so importing .dwg is out . Fusion won't allow .pdf as a canvas so .tiff is the next best thing. You can allegedly convert it in Acrobat but a yearly subscription is a lot for something I will probably never use again. Has anyone solved this conundrum or know a work around? Thanks
  5. ..... and there goes another interesting thread.
  6. Somewhere in the manual it mentions that increasing the frequency of the sensor's read and transmit interval may slow down the servo response. When you think about it. it makes sense. The sensor transmits back to Transmitter via the Receiver which presumably has a limit to Bandwidth. Tx writes the value to the it's screen or card or both. Sampling more often puts more data over the connection. How much difference it makes in reality is anybody's guess but Futaba feels it worth mentioning. Maybe if you are doing competition aerobatics? I only have an altitude sensor on my Slite glider set to 20 seconds sample. Works fine.
  7. Just wondering what settings are commonly used for getting smooth surfaces on flat top surfaces. I have tried ironing and adjusting the top and bottom layer settings and lines for infill. Not a bad result but very slow and some infill print-through showing. Using Polymaker Polysonic PLA at 204C. Cura 5.9 Wall 0.3 Line height 0.16. 0.4 Nozzle. Anyone been down this particular Rabbit Hole and come out the other end? Thanks
  8. Worth downloading the Kindle Book by Malcolm Holt. Futaba 16/18sz Programming. it's on Amazon and you can install Kindle Reader on your Computer. All explained there and worth the £6.40. There are some worked examples to follow which help you get your head around it. It is possible to do but having done it I now can't remember how. It's an age thing. Book will sort you out though. I don't think the 16iz is significantly different to the 16sz.
  9. Open the page you linked to in Safari on Mac. Then File > Export as PDF Choose where you want to save it. Remember the location ! Open Acrobat Reader File > Open > Navigate to where you saved it and away you go. You can save and rename it if you really want to. Choose File> Save As in Acrobat and call it what you like. You don't really have to do the last bit but I always forget where I left stuff so I Save things to the 'Desktop' if I'm using a File often.
  10. In the end I went for; Irwin Bench Vice x 60mm 102mm x 102mm, 7.6kg Stock no.:879-3044 From RS Components. It's the 1Ton version with the Anvil and is available cheaper elsewhere. The reason I got it from RS is that the next day shipping is included and it's more likely to not be a 'knock-off' from them. Plus, if it was rubbish they don't complain about returning it. Happily it's actually very good. Jaws meet perfectly and the action is smooth. Rather larger than is strictly necessary but it will do what I want and then some. (note to self: Do not do Land Rover stuff with this one.) Thanks to everyone who took the time to offer their opinions and advice. Much appreciated.
  11. I feel your pain! I used polybush sets all round which was bad enough. I still have nightmares about getting the old Radius arm bushes out.
  12. Thanks for the input chaps. I have a Record No.3 on the Bench in the Barn in France. Old as the hills. it's been a bit petulant since I Used it to press in new bushes for the Drag Links on the Defender. A genuine (?) refurb kit is £113 for it!! Sadly I won't be back there until May next year and I need it there anyway. I also need to figure out if the acme screw is 5/8 or 3/4. I'll have a look about. I just want something that is stable and the Jaws are parallel. I guess that's where the money goes. I'll check out Paramo and Parkinson too. KC, not keen on the clamp on vices either.
  13. When I was an apprentice I was told to buy the best you can afford, which I always have done. They were my livelihood so had to be good and reliable. I have spent thousands on tools over the years. The issue is that what used to be good reliable brands are now outsourced and basically rubbish. Buying mail order just makes things worse. Used to be if you wanted a Vice you would buy Record and never look back. Can't really justify that level of expense for a hobby these days. Although in the end I probably will.
  14. Looking for a relatively small engineer's pattern vice. Any recommendations? It won't have much asked of it but it has to close properly and not jump or stick. It will attach to a board and clamp to the bench when needed. I'm thinking 3 to 4 inch Jaws. Thanks
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