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Ariel

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  1. Just taken delivery of a Carbon Mini Dart 2 DLG. Nicely made kit. Has anyone built one or have any thoughts before I start? No instructions included but I have downloaded some from Hyperflight after a Google search. Just wondering if there is anything I should look out for before I pick up the tools. First DLG. I fancied something for those Balmy British Summer evenings we are having.
  2. For the level of accuracy and quality of cut you are looking for the only way I can suggest is to use a router and plunge cut. I worked a lot with mdf and veneered boards over the years and that was how we did it. The only issue is that you would need to make a jig to do it accurately, which kind of brings us full circle. You can get the holes in a straight line by using the side fence but getting them square across the board requires a bit more thought and not everyone has a router. I used to have a fully equipped woodworking shop and I wasted it making furniture when I could have been building model aeroplanes. The folly of youth! I lashed up a magnetic building board and having proved the principle I must get round to building the mk2 version which will use an internal door blank as the base. Cheap. flat and light. I would be interested to know what you come up with in the end. Old habits die hard and I'm always curious to see how other people do it.
  3. I would counterbore with an appropriately sized bit rather than countersink, however, you would need a depth stop collar for accuracy. Drill bits I was thinking of are sometimes known Brad point Bits. I hope you come up with a solution.
  4. Try Googling Nutserts for wood or threaded inserts for wood. They have a flange on top which hides any break out and don't have to go all the way through depending on the thickness of your board. If you can find Dowel Bits they will cut without damaging the surface because they have a point in the centre and cutting edges a bit like an Auger Bit. Twist bits will always damage the surface of wood or Mdf. If you are drilling through you need to back up the underside with a block of wood if you want to keep it neat.
  5. I really appreciate the time and effort you guys have put into replying to my question. A wealth of information and experience. I have to say I'm impressed by the ingenuity and willingness to share. Thank you all.
  6. Good point Piers. Resist the urge to over complicate things!
  7. Thanks Mike, that's really helpful. I do enjoy building jigs and templates. The main issue is not getting absorbed in doing that and never getting round to finishing anything! I like the 'analogue' system for starters because it looks like I have most everything I need already. I've been mulling over building a cnc router for a while so I suspect it won't be long before I get distracted by the 'Digital' approach. What was the issue with PU foam and the difference between EPS and XPS? I'm back in the uk in 10 days ish so I'll let you know what sort of mess I make of it.
  8. Now you are talking. Endless tinkering! Actually, if you look at Easy Composites' video channel, there is one where he makes a wing for a racing car and uses a CNC hot wire cutter he made. Interesting if you like that sort of thing. I can imagine a Laser would end badly.
  9. Thanks for the replies. All relevant and I'll have a look at the BMFA website as well. Got a variable power supply, watched a video on semi-automated cutting rig and some ideas about building a cutting bow. I'll start off with a guitar string and see where that leads. I'm thinking Glass skin / Epoxy resin and carbon fibre Tow for layer up spars. What can possibly go wrong?! Should be enjoyable.
  10. I'm thinking about building a Foam Glider wing and I was wondering which foam to use and where to get it from? Kingspan sell some EPS and XPS insulation boards which look plausible to the untrained eye. Also, which wire and gauge to use? There seems to be different opinions. I have become interested in composite construction and decided I should give it go. Looks like an indoor summer is on the cards so time to bring forward the Winter projects. Any thoughts or experiences gratefully received.
  11. That would be an excellent idea! Please do.
  12. Diacov 1000 would be my choice. Tough as old boots and no issues in the sun. Got to be worth a metre from Sarik to test and see what you think of it. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/ and the Diatex website https://www.diatex.com/diatex-produit/covering-fabric-diacov-1000/
  13. Very happy with my Ender 5 S1 with the Klipper Sonic pad. Depends a lot on what you want to do but the Ender is less expensive than the Bambu labs printers and works fine for my requirements. Even with Klipper 3D prints are measured in hours rather than minutes.
  14. Have a look at Bartsharp https://www.bartsharpairbrush.co.uk I got mine from them, very helpful and quick delivery. It's worth emailing them with what you want to do with it and they will advise on the setup to go for. If you want to spray wings and things an airbrush isn't ideal. Something bigger is needed really. Great for detail and small areas. Also, I can imagine solvent based paints would make the airbrush a pain to clean. I use Vallejo acrylics. It's fun but there is a bit of a learning curve.
  15. Result. Tenacity wins the day again! Will check out OpenCore Patcher. Maybe bring my old iMac back to life.
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