Ariel

Just read the title again and realised it's not a glow plug engine but you get the drift. More on topic, OS 30 which made a similar impression at the time because it was so easy to start and set up.

PAW 1.49. It was the first engine I ever owned and took me ages to even get it to start but the sheer joy when it did was everything a 13 year old could want. Still got it although it hasn't been used in over 50 years. I wonder if it would run again?

Try printing with a 'Raft'. It will be a setting in your slicer software. Uses more filament but not as much as the print falling over after a couple of hours. I have an Ender 5 with the touch probe and the magnetic build plate came with it. I clean off any dust and give it a clean with isopropyl alcohol if it hasn't been used for a while. I also got the Sonic Pad- Klipper with mine because it was bundled on offer at the time. Once dialled in it makes a huge difference to speed and levelling. Pretty sure it will work with the Ender 3 but wait until they have a deal on them. Once I have done the levelling routine it stays consistent for ages.

That also sounds like a plan and makes sense. I will give it go. Struggling to find some uninterrupted time at the moment but at least I have some ideas to get me started. Thanks, Graham

That's really useful, thanks. It's starting to make more sense. As always the problem is what you think you know rather than what you don't. I have gone back to basics with a piece of paper and a pencil to define what I am trying to achieve. Still can't get my head around how two aileron servos working in opposite directions can become two servos working in the same direction from a different stick. I guess a switch a condition and a trim change positive and negative. Appreciate the help. Onwards an (eventually) upwards!

Thanks for the replies. John, that actually helps a lot. 2Aileron 1 Flap makes sense and I think what Jeti call Flight Modes is the same as Conditions on Futaba. Setting up some more Conditions and trims looks like a way forward. Thanks. Andy, the 16sz I have looks much easier to program than the 14sg and I have read the same about 14sg. Should be possible on my radio. I think my issue is down to the user rather than the system. I'll search for Mike Shellim and see what he has to say. If ai can understand the principle I'm sure it will translate. Thanks both for taking the time to reply. It helps!

Well I guess there's some cold comfort in that nobody else seems to know either. If / when I figure it out I will put something on here. Don't hold your breath as fiddling about time in in short supply.

I have the above equipment and a MiniDart 2 DLG. It has 4 servos, 2 Aileron Rudder and Elevator. All good so far and servos all do what they are supposed to do. It's a very clever Transmitter, far cleverer than I am it turns out. What I want to achieve is: 3 Flight conditions i.e Camber to work from a 3 position switch. ( think I know how to do this ) Flaperons, which will work on the throttle stick J3 Ailerons still to work with the flaps. (I realise I will have to set some servo limits. ) All of the above will require the aileron servos to move in the same as well as opposite directions depending on what they doing. Questions for starters are, which Wing type do you choose in Model Wing Type, 2 ailerons, 2 ailerons 1 Flap, 2 ailerons 2 flaps or something else? How do you make the servos travel the same direction when being Flaps and giving Wing Camber and opposite directions when being ailerons? Do you achieve the droop in the trailing edge by using different trims for each Condition in the Camber Mode or is there a better way? I have downloaded Mr. Holts excellent Kindle book but the penny has yet to drop. I think once I know which Wing Type to choose at the start I might be in with a shout. Never had cause to do this sort of thing before so I'm feeling a bit dumb. Can't help but think there must be some Functions and Mapping of Servos in there somewhere. It would be best if I can figure this out myself but I could really do with some help getting started. Thanks, Graham

My point was that it 'feels' warmer when the air is dry. I was thinking about his comfort.

You could try running a De-Humidifier permanently on. Years ago I was working on the restoration of a Cinq Port Schooner during a very cold winter. We ran a De-Humidifier in the 'Tool Room' to stop all our kit rusting overnight. It was astonishing how much warmer it felt stepping in from the Hold. Promptly became the Tea Room. Will do wonderful things for keeping your models, tools and materials dry too. Also cheap to run and no exposed heating elements or flames.

I managed to shut it up by going from Home Screen --- System Menu --- System Timer --- Other and turning the volume down to Zero. Warnings and Speech left at 6 for the time being. Good enough for the moment whilst I try to figure out Wing Camber stuff.

Worth a shot. Thanks for the suggestion . I wish I could remember what I did that turned the sound on in the first place. I guess short term memory really does go first

Is there a way to turn off the 'Beep' on the Timer? I have managed to turn it on somehow whilst setting up a new model. It's never done it before and I'm a bit stumped. Can't see anything in the Timer Menu but I may have missed it. It's a Glider setup so I'm not really bothered about timers one way or the other but I would like to have a little peace while I'm setting it up. Thanks

Just taken delivery of a Carbon Mini Dart 2 DLG. Nicely made kit. Has anyone built one or have any thoughts before I start? No instructions included but I have downloaded some from Hyperflight after a Google search. Just wondering if there is anything I should look out for before I pick up the tools. First DLG. I fancied something for those Balmy British Summer evenings we are having.

For the level of accuracy and quality of cut you are looking for the only way I can suggest is to use a router and plunge cut. I worked a lot with mdf and veneered boards over the years and that was how we did it. The only issue is that you would need to make a jig to do it accurately, which kind of brings us full circle. You can get the holes in a straight line by using the side fence but getting them square across the board requires a bit more thought and not everyone has a router. I used to have a fully equipped woodworking shop and I wasted it making furniture when I could have been building model aeroplanes. The folly of youth! I lashed up a magnetic building board and having proved the principle I must get round to building the mk2 version which will use an internal door blank as the base. Cheap. flat and light. I would be interested to know what you come up with in the end. Old habits die hard and I'm always curious to see how other people do it.

I would counterbore with an appropriately sized bit rather than countersink, however, you would need a depth stop collar for accuracy. Drill bits I was thinking of are sometimes known Brad point Bits. I hope you come up with a solution.

Try Googling Nutserts for wood or threaded inserts for wood. They have a flange on top which hides any break out and don't have to go all the way through depending on the thickness of your board. If you can find Dowel Bits they will cut without damaging the surface because they have a point in the centre and cutting edges a bit like an Auger Bit. Twist bits will always damage the surface of wood or Mdf. If you are drilling through you need to back up the underside with a block of wood if you want to keep it neat.

I really appreciate the time and effort you guys have put into replying to my question. A wealth of information and experience. I have to say I'm impressed by the ingenuity and willingness to share. Thank you all.

Good point Piers. Resist the urge to over complicate things!

Thanks Mike, that's really helpful. I do enjoy building jigs and templates. The main issue is not getting absorbed in doing that and never getting round to finishing anything! I like the 'analogue' system for starters because it looks like I have most everything I need already. I've been mulling over building a cnc router for a while so I suspect it won't be long before I get distracted by the 'Digital' approach. What was the issue with PU foam and the difference between EPS and XPS? I'm back in the uk in 10 days ish so I'll let you know what sort of mess I make of it.

Now you are talking. Endless tinkering! Actually, if you look at Easy Composites' video channel, there is one where he makes a wing for a racing car and uses a CNC hot wire cutter he made. Interesting if you like that sort of thing. I can imagine a Laser would end badly.

Thanks for the replies. All relevant and I'll have a look at the BMFA website as well. Got a variable power supply, watched a video on semi-automated cutting rig and some ideas about building a cutting bow. I'll start off with a guitar string and see where that leads. I'm thinking Glass skin / Epoxy resin and carbon fibre Tow for layer up spars. What can possibly go wrong?! Should be enjoyable.

I'm thinking about building a Foam Glider wing and I was wondering which foam to use and where to get it from? Kingspan sell some EPS and XPS insulation boards which look plausible to the untrained eye. Also, which wire and gauge to use? There seems to be different opinions. I have become interested in composite construction and decided I should give it go. Looks like an indoor summer is on the cards so time to bring forward the Winter projects. Any thoughts or experiences gratefully received.

That would be an excellent idea! Please do.

Diacov 1000 would be my choice. Tough as old boots and no issues in the sun. Got to be worth a metre from Sarik to test and see what you think of it. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/ and the Diatex website https://www.diatex.com/diatex-produit/covering-fabric-diacov-1000/