MikeQ

Hi I've been experimenting. Rustoleum Orange spray. Decanted it into a small glass jar and left it a couple if days. It separated out into a greenish watery fluid sitting on top of a thicker orange liquid. I guess its the ‘binder’? and the pigment? Anyway, i used a small pippette to suck up the green fluid from on top and was left with a thick Orange pigment. Added to clear nitrate dope about 1:1 and then thinned. Guess it would be close to 2:2:3 of dope, pigment and thinner. Sprayed fine out of a cheapo Machine Mart double action airbrush. Wasn’t so good at brushing. Didn’t get that nice coloured dope glossy finish. But usable either way. Also used the pigment in 2K clear Klasskote. Voila, coloured 2K … sprayed great. Cured hard and sanded nice ready for a 2K clear finish. Don’t think it would be my go to approach but if you wanted a certain colour … might be worth looking at. mike https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rust-Oleum-400ml-Painters-Touch-Spray/dp/B001W03PEA/ref=asc_df_B001W03PEA

Hello Jim Spinner(s) received in post 😀. Very generous. I owe you one. Donation to charity made. Thanks Mike

Hi Nick if you don’t mind me asking, what do you think the overall cost of a project like this is? Been tempted a number of times but don’t think I’d have the staying power 😀 Mike

Hi in my experience you’ll not have an issue running a Mills inverted. I have a few models will Irvine and Indian Mills .75cc and 1.3cc and some are inverted. Turn your NVA 90 degrees so the Needle Valve comes out the side. You may need to add an extension. I’m guessing your looking for ‘guided freeflight’ instead of a pattern model? Then make up a little tin tank to sit between the bearers as low as possible above the venturi. Tank height isn’t super critical on these little diesels per se and a small tank will run for quite some time. It is easy to flood inverted. Just be careful priming the motor and with a bit of practice you’ll be starting it one flick 😀. Mills are super user friendly. Prime it with the port closed and FRESH fuel. Stlae fuel is the biggest issue in my experience. Is it the Gordon Whitehead model ? I have the GW Sopwith Triplane which flies Free Flight with a PAW .5cc inverted nice and slow in 50’ circles. Mike

Hello Jim Thankyou very much. Will PM you. Cheers Mike

Hi Jim if you want to part with just the spinner, no base, I’ll be happy at a fiver 😀? Mike

Hi Denis it is. Its a Control Line F2B model. A Frank Warburton Ki-61 https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2458 It’s about 10th hand I believe. It was vert tatty. Engine is a Stalker 40 RE. I overhauled the colour scheme for a Novos clubmate and liked the results so much I bought it off him 😂. Its still rough close up. I’m still must learning the ropes on CL stunt despite my first models being CL Champ, KK plastic Hurricane and a Veron Colt 45 yrs ago. Little models on short lines 🤢

I mean it is, and would do be job, just wouldn’t hit the right, spot so to speak 😀

Thanks Ken. Thanks Denis but like the Wife said to the Vicar “Thats not the right shape unfortunately “ 😀

Hi anyone have a spare 2” spinner, specifically the one in attached photo. I think its a clip together, Goldberg I think. Mike

Hello just on with glassing my Sabre. I use West System, 3/4oz glass cloth and peel ply. First off is a coat of 30-50% Non shrinking dope mixed with microballoons as a filler (careful on foam core wings not to slosh it on). Lightly sand to knock off the fuzz. For me, the first advantage of the PeelPly is the consistent finish. Its an extra step, and uses more epoxy, as I’ve found best results are achieved by fully wetting out the glass then fully wetting out the PeelPly on top (hair dryer helps the resin flow out. You don’t want to see any puddles or shiny areas in the PeelPly. The second, and biggest advantage, is the slightly dimpled surface it leaves. It makes a noise like a zip being pulled up and down when sanding. You know when to stop sanding an area when the ‘zippy’ noise stops. Start with 120 grit dry to get rid of most of the dimples and then go up some grades wet for a nice surface ready for priming. West System dry sands to a powder nice and doesn’t ball up if you keep your paper clear on the lower grades (rub it on some foam to clear it). If I go through the glass I flood on a bit of thick zap and rub in with glass powder from the sanding. Then sand again. Repeat as needed. If you don’t go through you are sanding enough off 😂 On curved/compound surfaces you can use patches of peel ply. You end up with little lines in the overlaps but easily sanded down along with all the rest. Not saying this is the only, best or cheapest way but works for me. Mike

Hi Just can’t get away with electrics. Have years of experience with diesels and glows but no experience with petrol. I’m thinking of converting my Sebart Wind S 50 E to petrol and club mate suggested DLE 20 would be about right. Any recommendations on what I’d need to do to modify model and what kind of gubbins do I need to go petrol? cheers Mike

Hi started fuselage. 1 side at a time. Peel Ply, 0,5oz glass and West Systems laminating resin. lol, £1.80 Resin and about £1.20 glass per side. Peel Ply takes more resin than finally needed as i like to totally wet out the PeelPly. Heat Gun helps the resin flow. Mike

Hi next up, glassing fuselage. Drew up and 3D printed a couple of jigs to allow me to ‘spit roast’ it. Will keep a track of the weights from here on in case anyone finds it useful, including me 😀 Gave it a coat of NonShrinkingDope mixed with microballons and sanded down to take the ‘fuzz’ off. Mike

Same same but with a TF Corsair. I think it will be a flying brick using the kit wood etc so have largely lost interest. Wife bought it for me from Alans Models in Whitley Bay 30 yrs ago when I first met her. I knew she was a keeper at that point 😂 Its my longest running ‘forever project’