Stuart Z
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Posts posted by Stuart Z
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I just think back to my full size gliding days. One had to learn windy days, cross winds etc., no expo to dial in, no rates.
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Point made earlier - I have a 10” B&D I think that was only used once by me and then by my son in law when he was cutting up sleepers. Cost a lot in its day but now gathering dust. So old now I don’t know if I want to use it again and can’t think why I would. It’s big heavy thing and has a mains lead so awkward to use.
So definitely consider well before splashing out. For all my modelling needs I use the small Proxxon, excellent for what I want.
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Looking very good
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Hi
I am using Futaba so not directly relevant but may be of use to someone. I used 2 x S-FHSS type Tx and just bound the dolly rx after setting up the plane . Rudder on the dolly no problem.
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On 03/02/2023 at 08:23, leccyflyer said:
Had to evacuate the workshop yesterday after a rare encounter with thin CA - just about the only thing I use it for is mylar hinges and with the door open, a good quality mask rated for use with vapours and minimal exposure to the CA, straight from the fridge, I had to leave after a couple of minutes as my eyes were burning from the fumes. Horrible stuff. I think I might try Pacer Hinge Glue next time, though I've not used that on Mylar hinges.
Similar issues, a while ago when trying to build a Hi Boy in the shed, hot sunny day, spread some cyano on a joint, wallop, massive headache and fell out the shed door as the fumes hit. Used Aliphatic ever since, even though at this time of year you have to wait hours for joint to harden. At least I don’t have the nasty experience I had with cyano. It has it’s place but not on a hot sunny day in a closed shed.
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Just noticed this build, pleased to see it. I have the kit in a building queue but admit that some of the build is a bit obscure so glad you’ve put some good pics in the article. Was planning for mine to be IC but who knows, in the lap of the gods at the mo.
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Sorry can’t remember but do remember there was a change to the vents under the fuz. I think the 2 hole version is V2, but what else I’m not sure, possibly the 4 S capability, but might be rambling.
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45 minutes ago, Denis Watkins said:
Use the best paint and thinners that you can afford.
The pigments are fine ground to go through airbrushes.
Thin to milky consistency, about 10% thinner to start.
Airbrush thinner has additives so as not to weaken the paint structure.
Agreed, with selecting lowest pressure to blow the paint. About 15lb.
Hold the airbrush
Close enough to have the paint stick, but not so close as to puddle.
Too far away with the spray nozzle and the paint starts to dry in the air before reaching the Model.
Test, for a few minutes on paper to decide
Then smooth even strikes to build up the colour.
Agree totally. That is how I work. It’s also economical on paint as it’s not clouding up in the work area and going to waste.
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Hi
You will need to make sure with a touch up gun that you have a big enough compressor. As an example the Clarke one (quite cheap) requires around 8 cfm - my compressor will just about get there but will be running non stop. I also have an issue with airborne paint vapour when working at high pressures so am happy at lower pressure and lower cfm. I can spray a whole wing on 1 tank of air quite easily.
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Super 60 - built 2 of them. Easy to build, yes there are easier slab sided models but for building pleasure the Super 60 is good fun.
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Excellent looking model
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Looks great
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Paul
I use my airbrush quite happily on funfighter size models. Needs more passes but little or no overspray, I keep the pressure around 20psi or lower. Never really look at dial but keep it low. The guns need about double the pressure. More concerned about how much airborne spray occurs as I have asthma and emphysema. Even with a mask (Force8), it still depends on what equipment/media you use.
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Just my thoughts. The Iwata Neo CN is what I use but this can be greater or less than £100 depending on where you go. You can easily get a full range of spares as well. You can get relatively cheap compressors but you have to remember the cost of hoses and adaptors. It is a fair investment but there are a few complete sets about.
I personally have gone for the airbrush rather than a gun (I have a couple of guns for laying on primer) A gun can lay a lot of paint on big areas but the airbrush can do the same, just takes longer. The paint is a key matter to consider. I use acrylics by Vallejo Model Air. But others are others out there.
It’s largely a matter of choice but it might be worth getting Ian Peacocks Airbrush book, several copies on eBay to give a broad understanding- yes it’s very dated but a quick cheap way of getting some knowledge.
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Yes, I believe there is. If so you are effectively moving the C of G back which would make it more lively, not sure it will be as good as an Acrowot but others may think differently. You still have the broad wing tips which will slow its rotation.
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I have mainly used 3S. I found it very similar to the Riot but with a low wing. It’s a fairy stable bird. Possibly with the control movements upped it may be quite lively. The wing shape is square so not tapered as some aerobatic models. Worth checking out the many articles on here to see what others say. I know my Acrowot foamy is definitely quite lively by comparison. Again my opinion but see other comments.
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Just my view, the Ruckus will be more docile than the Acrowot Foam E
Possibly what you wanted?
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Thanks for the continuing input. Current plan is a 63mm Irvine spinner, found one in the box of "not sure when or why I bought it but glad I did.!" Probably cruising a model air show dealer tent and putting it in the basket in hope I'd find a use for it. I have quite a bit of "might need one of them".
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Thanks Trevor & Glenn, I welcome the input.
No matter how much I build there is always something new to learn.
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Hi
Just installing a Saito 82b in a model, my first 4 stroke. Normally I would use a plastic spinner on a 2 stroke, but somewhere read that’s not good on a 4 stroke. I bought an aluminium one but the spinner back plate insert needs to be made larger. Can I used a reamer on it? Not a lot to get hold of to ream it out.
On the spinner itself the prop blade slots need opening up, is that best with a dremel sanding drum or a routing tip?
All new to me and can’t find a simple answer- can someone help please. Is the plastic spinner safe for the job or do I need to somehow modify an aluminium spinner.
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Thanks
Perhaps it was simpler, perhaps it was a case of what you were familiar with, but it seems there are more variables, In reality the issues are the same, but unlike IC it seems you are forever looking things up. However, I had years of knowing what IC aligned with what. Now’s it’s all new with electric.
Hey ho my new pattern model I’m going to be IC. It was going to be way too expensive given I have loads of IC gear.
Thanks againkind regards
Stuart
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Thanks Shaun,
Didn’t see an alert to your reply.
Thanks for the information-it is definitely a big learning curve but I think I’m getting there with your help. I’ll get the props you mentioned and see what gives the best performance as I can revert to the lower motor and interpolate the options as I go.
Many thanks
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Hi
Still stumbling in the dark a bit. I’ve tried a 4S battery with a 50 amp ESC and got the next higher rated motor from 4 Max. (1270). Now pulling well over 50 amps on 11x5.5 prop. Any thoughts on how to get the power draw down - on a 3S I only get around a 30-35 amp draw. BTW RPM seems to be around 8000 on the 3S setup. Would have expected more 😟
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John
Good luck with it! The DSM and Marvic models were all good flyers and to be honest all looked very much the same albeit my Saphir had the angled wing tips.
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Lucas's Rans S-9 Chaos
in RCM&E Plan Builders
Posted
Can’t see it on FB
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