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geoff wise 1

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Everything posted by geoff wise 1

  1. HI at the size of models I am making 22" to 36" span. There are not a lot out there 3" long. And on unless I see it in my hand I can not tell if it is what I want. So I want to have a go Dexter has been helping. Geoff.
  2. Hi the PETG is on order as you will see I am in a bit smaller size than you. Club 20 and now Club 020
  3. Good evening. I have looked on Sarik in the past and they don't seem to do what used to be called universal canopies with different sizes, but i will give Trent a call tomorrow, A3 sheets are quite cheap so i will have a word with them. I do want to mould my own to find out if i can. More satisfaction. I will let you know how i get on? Thanks Geoff
  4. Hi, I am in the process of building some 1/2 A models for my Grandson, who wants one with a canopy so he can put a proper pilot in ( smiley) I was going to go on the lines of a plunge mold, but before i start, what is the best material to use and where can you get it from? I don't really want to use the pop bottle method. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks, Geoff Maximum length will be about 5"
  5. Hi, Hawk 70, nice aeroplane, flys well. Been trying to get one for the last 3 years, but just get promises !!!! Does anyone still have one of these or the plans they could help me with? I may have the wing templates but without knowing the root and tip cord, i have no chance of finding them. I wait with anticipation, thanks, Geoff
  6. Hi Stevo, I think you may be talking about the wrong thing, white spirit is used on oil based products ie humbrol enamel, the solvent for this is a cellulose thinner type of product similar to what girls use on their fingers and toes, they use it because it dries quicker. I've only said this so you won't spoil a model Geoff
  7. Hi Stevo, I think you may be talking about the wrong thing, white spirit is used on oil based products ie humbrol enamel, the solvent for this is a cellulose thinner type of product similar to what girls use on their fingers and toes, they use it because it dries quicker. I've only said this so you won't spoil a model Geoff
  8. Hi Dennis, i don't know why you are apologising, you didn't say any thing wrong, but according to my kids, you're shouting when you use capitals. Davyp, There's 2 sorts of ronseal, one dries crystal clear, the other one is slightly opaque, i know i've got one room gloss and one room not gloss, must read the label on the tin David, Yes, i'll be using 2 pack resin I've tried spraying with the correct mixture and if you look in my pictures, you will see one of them shows what looks like candy floss, which is what you get if the paints too thick, i've read somewhere else they have had the same problem with this, so i'm shouting now IF YOU WANT YOUR MODEEL FUEL PROOF, DON'T THIN SOLAR-LAC, I HOPE THE OWNER READS THIS AS I WONDER HOW OTHER PEOPLE WREAK THEIR PRIDE ND JOY. geoff
  9. Martin, that seems a good idea, water based, its a pity i've got a tin of ronseal floor varnish but its not the clear one, its opaquish, might go and put a bit of fuel behind the sink in the bathroom and see what it does. Thanks, Geoff
  10. Hi, ok, i said i over thinned it, as for the details, i'm aware of what the product is supposed to do. The tail plane was done over a week ago in a very warm loft so one imagines it would be dry. Klass Kote, ferny coat, aerokote, i think are all kissing cousins which i suggested myself as if i can't paint with a paint brush, i can't put any thing on unless i spray it, which is a bit like there's a hole in my bucket, lets fix it. I've just put some pictures in my albums (in the past i've used two pack automotive which should really be done using a respirator) I've sprayed with cellulose in the past and used Fernyglass, no problems.and of course Roy Levers brand, which was very good. I decided to go down his route after spraying a cowl using alfords car paint and halfords lacquer, which just turned to chewing gum. I hope that clarifies some points but i do find it a bit strange that nobdy else has done the same as i, obviously everybody is a lot Wiser than myself. Cheers, Geoff
  11. Well this is a grim discovery!!! Just sprayed a 15 powered flying boat and a 1/2 a mustang with Solar-lac. I used an air brush and at the recommended thinning levels, the spraying was abismal, i found that just over 50% of Solar-lac thinners gave a good spray pattern and as they're small models, i didn't mind putting a lot of thin coats on, i first found some thing was wrong when a thin drop of super glue ropped on the fuselage, my reaction, wipe it off with my finger. I now have a blue superglued finger. I then thought i'd clean the bench up a bit with a bit of thinners, it was too easy, this got me worried so the other half of the bench i used a clean cloth with 25% nitro fuel, better than thinners, by now you can see why i might take up flower arranging. At the tail plane end i thought ah, there's some glue on that, i'll paint it with some neat white, with a brush, it's a nice pale blue now, so i'm debating now do i spray it with aerokote and keep my legs crossed? I can't use perkins fuel proofer as it says it's no good for metallic paint and it smells like the old stuff, which was no good for high nitro. Please don't suggest go electric, that would make me fed upI'll put some photos on to show it. Geoff
  12. AP engines say you must use caster, cox say you must use caster, they say its for cooling, Den's models on the Isle of Wight is the cox king, he also has very small blind nuts with allen screws which are great for all sorts of jobs, worth giving him a look, small servos is another and a nice bloke with very good service, but of course we all know the real reason, the smell, ask captain slow (James May) Geoff Forgot to say i get mine from barrets and may Edited By geoff wise 1 on 14/06/2017 09:16:25
  13. Hi Brian, Thanks for your reply, i noticed somewhere in here a newby asked the same question and the replies left a lot to be desired, its a valid question, how much power is required to operate a surface of x square inches, speed of model will obviously have an effect, but saying that my fast models have very little deflection, think i'll just go down the route of small metal geared servos and see what the results are. I notice that you asked a question, do you use a modern transmitter or 35 megs, the answer is i prefer the weight of 35 megs, i only want rates and servo reversing. I couldn't remember what all the switches were for and would be more likely to crash. I do have a spectrum as well and i have to admit that being able to set the throws up etc.is handy Now another question, alleron differential, i've only ever used it once intentionally and that was on somebody elses piper cub thing which basically gave you aeleron reversal differential made it flyable, so as the junior has a wing section very similar to a super 60, very Clark Yish, do you recon differential might be a good idea? If so, what percentage? Peter does say in his article that the rolls weren't very good. You mentioned servo prices, i think my first small servos were £30 each. Geoff
  14. life used to be simple, single channel, valves a escapements powered by rubber, models lasted quite a long time as long as you didn't turn the radio on, then came galloping ghost, by this time you didn't need a 22 volt battery to power the might midget motor, then came pulse proportional, using 2 bellamatics which just about had the power to work after they had overcome the tension on the centering spring, then came my first 4 channel tx and rx and proper servos which came in one size which went in to every thing from a cox o49 to a sixty powered aerobatic. Then came a small servo FD 30M, which i used in club 20, now my question is, how much torque is actually required for some thing like the above? ie, servo in each wing, rudder and elevator, some of the torque on these small sevos seem pretty high, if you actually tried to stall them, chances are you would probably pull the servo mount out. Comments welcome, Geoff
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