Geoff Daunt

Hi Manish, once again to the rescue. 👍 l thought l would have to make a form of jig , but wasn’t sure the rigging wires would hold it sufficiently in place. Always something to learn, since my first biplane.And that gives me the confidence to carry on. Incidentaly rather than trying to use an incidence meter for the lower wing at 4.5 and 1 degree for upper wing, using geometry can help as follows: set lower wing to horizontal from root: then add 86.3 mm at wing tip, this gives you 4.5 degrees. For upper wing set again at horizontal then add 19.2 mm at wing tip, this gives you 1 degree incidence A maths teacher friend worked it out for me. Might be useful to someone else doing this build Thanks Manish.

Hi Ady, Your project is far above my modelling skills, but l do enjoy the building aspect. This has by far been my biggest challenge; especially since the Instructions are completely useless and nothing whatsoever about the rigging. My fuselage is 90 % complete and wings and empennage complete. l have put it aside at the moment , since very frustrated about how to proceed with getting the wings fixed in a secure position As you will know both upper and lower wings are essentially fixed by pins to the fuselage sides, but free to move up and down. How do l go to set up the wings so they are firmly set in position. All my other power models have either been fixed wing secured by bolts or secured with dihedral braces. Any information or pictures greatly appreciated Geoff

Hi Robert, I am assuming you are an experienced Builder, otherwise don’t touch it. I have been building for 40+ yrs, but never a biplane, and without doubt the most challenging build yet. The plans are very good but the usual Chinese/ English instruction book which is so very basic for such a difficult model, and on some of the tricky bits absolutely nothing. Such a shame since the quality of the materials is excellent and the laser cutting some of the best l have seen for a long time both on ply and the metal sheet parts. Just thought l should add the above since, as you will know, not a cheap kit. l dread to think of the cost of the covering, when l get around to it.🤣🤣

Hi Robert, I am using a spare Dessert Aircraft 50cc as the power plant. A tight fit but l thought the extra power might come in Handy. It certainly is a large and heavy model. I read somewhere that the builder was concerned about the weight and chose to change a lot of the wood to balsa and did not use the stainless tubing for wing tips and elevators: Trying to bend the stainless tubing was a nightmare and l ditched it. I made mine laminating ply and balsa, the old fashioned way and worked well. I like to build Scale type models but l am not an expert and can’t really answer your question whether it is absolutely true scale. That is beyond my expertise, l have several books on the Tiger moth and it certainly looks very realistic. Good luck and do let me know if you get one. 👍

Further to my above post, it has just crossed with the last post from Manish. So it is not the tubes are short but the fittings that go in the end of the tubes, l missed out. !!!!! I assumed they were to do with the rigging, but yet again nothing in the instructions about rigging. You are a star Manish.👍👍

Thanks everyone for further information. Having looked briefly at the German build website l think l have solved the problem. l have just double checked that l have used the correct stainless steel tubes in length to build the cabane structure and l have. The problem seems to be the top Horizontal tubes that go through the cabane. l have also checked the width and it coincides with the plan. In any event it is jig built. So the problem seems to be that the top tubes are too short. you can see in the photos that l have inserted the bolt and nuts on the inside, to keep it in place. If however they were longer, then the holes would be on the outside of the Cabane and the metal fittings on the wing would indeed fit into the pre drilled holes in the tubes. No wonder l was struggling to see how the top wing fitted.!!

Many thanks for reply. planes look almost identical l understand how the bottom wing attaches with brackets However as you will see the plan shows no brackets upon which to hang the upper wings and there are no brackets left from the metal sheet parts. on the picture you posted of part of wing in yellow l have nothing in plans or instructions showing a vertical metal spring system. all my wings have a horizontal spring system but l have nothing to fix into on the top !!!

I have asked before if anyone has built this kit, but no one responded. Cannot believe l am the only modeller in the UK to build this.It certainly is a serious piece of kit and the hardest model l have built in 30 yrs and my first biplane. So l am trying again: building almost complete but can’t work out how the Upper wings attach to the dummy Fuel tank which sits on stainless steel tubing above cockpit. Nothing in the instructions. Also zero instructions on the quite complicated rigging which is clearly structural. if anyone has built this and can assist l would be very grateful. l also guess l am going to have to make a jig so l can get the wings in the correct position before attaching to fuselage sides: again nothing in the instructions: both wings sit at + 2.5 incidence to Datum line; bottom wing sits at 4.5 degrees dihedral and upper wing at 1 degree dihedral. Any general advice on setting up biplane wings greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hi Ady, thank you for replying. I don’t have a 3 d printer. Gave up trying to bend the SS tubes. l went the old fashioned way of making up some Laminate strips . Worked very well and kept shape.

Many thanks . Will now order the correct arm.

I need to order a large double Aluminium servo arm about 3 to 3.1/2 inches long. l have 2 spare servos l can use; DymondDS9500 Ripmax Quartz QZ507. A-short Aluminium servo arm on the Dymond appears to be a perfect fit on the Ripmax. So by coincidence appear to have same number of splines. I know it is not Hitec since l have some of those arms and too small. Can anyone tell me how many splines for above, so l can order the correct long arm. thanks

Hi , In regard to my build of this Tiggy how on earth do you bend the 4 mm stainless tube for the rudder ,elevator and wing tips, l built a Jig for rudder outline , saddle clamped one end and attempted to bend around jig ….. got it roughly around but then just sprung out. And shape not good. Please tell me how you did it., if you did. many thanks.

I am building the Value Planes Tiger Moth 1:3.8, so effectively 1/4 scale l have a DA50 and intend to use this. The original Exhaust l bought many yrs ago. ( for a Glider tug) is some 55 cm in length so no use for this build. I was going to try and source a Muffler type and Toni Clarke in Germany has them but his website says he does not recommend them since they are terribly noisy compared to a Zenoah type muffler which is very quiet. Does anyone have any experience of the DA and the muffler exhaust. it has to be compact and l want the exhaust to exit under the cowling. l cannot find anything else in UK Grateful for any help// recommendations thanks,, Geoff

Thanks for the information guys ,especially Ady. I will only use as a semi scale model which is fine by me. I have since found out that Mick Reeve models do a 1/4 cockpit kit at a sensible price of £40 for front and back and £3 postage.That will do nicely 👍 l don’t have the time or skill to do a full scale project. I am not into competitions or similar, just like building a decent model and got to have an office!!🤣

Hi, just wondering if anyone has built this model. 1/3.8 scale and 2.36 m wingspan. Any information on the build… or problems or issues would be appreciated. I want to do the model justice and include a Scale ‘Ish cockpit.I am a competent builder but do not have the skills to build a scratch built cockpit.. so looking for the best Cockpit kit in the UK. I guess 1/3 scale would be ok even if slightly big for true scale…. But not going to get 1/3.8 Any recommendation for a cockpit kit greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I have some Dymond Digital DS 9500 servos l want to use in a new project. I know they are decent servos but l am trying to find the operating Torque( l no longer have the boxes) Research has only given me the following 100ncm(4.8v) 120ncm( 6v) l do not know ncm Can anyone tell me what is the Torque in Kg

Thanks Gary for the information. l switched the discharge program off when l went to bed. Voltage was down to 15.63, 62%full and all cells showing 3.9v. Do l need to go that little further to get down to 15.4v & 3.85 per cell , since those are the figures l read on Lipo care. Just not certain if it is that precise/ necessary for best protection for storage. many thanks

I am trying to be good and discharge my Lipo’s to Storage V rather than leaving them fully or partially charged. For example l have set the discharge rate on my elderly Fusion Elysium LX60B Pro to 1.0Amp( the Max). My 4S 3700 MAh is fully charged at 16.8 V. when l plug in with balencer etc it starts to discharge at 0.30A and is obviously taking an age to reduce Voltage to 15.4v. is this normal or can you discharge faster ??? It has now been running for about 1/2 hr and reading 16.578 v, from 16.8v Do l need a better machine or is this normal. Thanks.

Silly boy. After sleeping on the matter l have found the problem. pictures show the Rx. I had convinced myself that the legends on the top left ie throttle, Ali, Elev, etc, would apply to the top bank of ports since they are adjacent and the ones on the right were for the bottom ports.??, Oh No ..... that would be far too obvious Just to confuse everyone ( no instructions which is which) the ones on the far right are actually for the Top ports and the ones next to the top ports are for the bottom. Happy days. Now bound and sorted

Why can l not get my Rx to flash so l can bind. I bought this many months ago but just got it out of box. I have plugged in the 2 Satelite rx’s into Ant r & Ant b. Ant L is blank. I have put the binding plug into the correct port and then plugged in a Overlander 2000 Nimh battery, reading 5.37v. Nothing happens. I have then tried via the Esc. servo lead plugged into Throttle port and then connected to new 4s 3700 battery. Again nothing happens to the Rx, nothing flashing but the esc did bleep. Am l doing something wrong or have l got a duff Rx.???

A bit more research and l have now found the answer, and good news. The Eu-UK Trade & Cooperative Agreement...... Provides for Zero Tariffs & Zero Quotas on all Trade of EU & UK goods that comply with the appropriate rules of origin. So l was not lucky there is no duty. Obviously these rules do not apply to New Zealand. l bought the XL, Hacker Motor, and Leprechaun lettering sheet. You will not find the UK price on the Dane-rc website. You need to ask Michael via the website order form and he will Quote you a price including shipping. I did not bother with the split fuselage. I have a large estate car that will take the fuselage. In total mine cost 502 Euros or £ 462 at time of my transfer. model came within about 2 weeks Hope that helps?? Do keep in touch if you buy and can swap building issues. website had excellent photos of stage building.. no building instructions and certainly not one for a beginner but experienced builder.

Hi Ron . Well there’s a story here. Last Yr l bought the Super Sinbad kit from New Zealand and yes l received a letter requiring Import duty before it could be released. With the Leprechaun XL l ordered it after January so we had left the EU and therefore saved about 20 percent Danish Tax. All the correct labelling was on the Box and price of kit and motor was declared in Euros...... but it was simply delivered by Courier. l have tried to look up the rules/ regulations but could not find the answer since l paid more for this kit than the Sinbad. So perhaps no import duty or maybe l was just lucky ?? The laser cut parts are excellent. Go on treat yourself ??

I had considered that Trevor but l am going for the Hacker Motor Electric version so with a Motor and 4s 3500 Lipo ( recommended) up front l don’t think that will be a problem.

By good fortune l have managed to add these photos. Why have the Servos so far forward and a massive link of 10 inches in length. Rear of rib about 1” in depth so very easy to build in a platform and put Servo upside down with short connecting arm . Or am l missing something ??

I have just ordered and received this Laser cut kit from Dane-RC in Denmark. Has anyone built this model ? If so l have a few queries looking at the plan particularly as to position of Aileron servos and the very long piano wire rods suggested from Servo to Aileron horn. I will try to post a picture shortly. Thanks Geoff Daunt