LHR Dave
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Redruth and District Model Flying Club is hosting its annual show this weekend 3rd and 4th August at its Northcliff flying site situated near Hell's Mouth TR14 0JG. If you are down on holiday or if you are nearby, why not come along. There will be a small trade presence as well as excellent food plus things for kids to do. There will be flying all day long untill 5pm each day with local flyers displaying as well as some familiar guest pilots. With the usual mixture of jets, large scale, vintage, aerobatic helicopters, there will also be full size aircraft popping in for demonstration. There is also a chance of winning a scenic flight over the coast of Cornwall Flying between 10am to 5.30pm with free parking. Admission £5pp under 16's Free. RDMFC Northcliff Flying Site TR14 0JG Grid Ref: SW616425
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Hi Guys I have recently purchased from a bring and buy two mint West Wings kits of the Bae Hawk and Hunter. Although i have been flying and building for many years, this will be my first jets and edf combo's. I have two questions for you experts 1: Can these models be hand launched or would I need a bungee and launch ramp?. 2: What would be the most suitable fan and motor/lipo combination for these models ?. Cheers Dave
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Just a quick final update . I have now flown my mustang and it flew just great, I had to reduce the control throws to low rates as she was a tad twitchy on high rates. I had three flights and with a bit of battery position tweaking for the c of g i was very happy with the end result., cant wait to fly her again. Thanks Ton for a great model , would highly recommend anyone to build this model , but maybe not take as long as I have .
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Above is a sequence of transfering an image from a plan to balsa. The kit is cut by photocopying the plan using a toner type copier (like the big ones they have in offices and the small printer shops you see in the high street). Once copied the part is roughly cut out Then it is turned print side down on to the balsa or ply etc. then using a cloth, apply a small amount of paint thinners(other substances could be used its just a matter of experimenting).rubbing down over all the part detail. then remove the soaked through paper to reveal the part nicely printed on the wood Notice that it is printed mirror image on the wood ,this is not a problem and part numbers etc can be re written on part in pen.You could always select print in mirror image on the printer then it would transfer correctly onto the wood. The part is the carefully cut out from the wood one you have done all the components you have yourself a kit of parts for less than half the price of a laser cut kit. I use the mirror image function on the printer for printing the opposite wing panels on models then build over the top of the photocopy its a good way of making sure you have a left and right half of a wing.
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Ton, how many watts per pound did your mustang fly on ?
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Just worked out the figures using some new scales that I picked this morning at a car boot. My Mustang weighs 2.9lb. This gives me 118w per pound. Do you think this is enough for flying ?
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After a very very long lay off from the build (over a year) , finally my mustang is ready for its maiden. I am hoping that it could be this week as I have holiday from work. The mustang is a bit heavier than Tons she weighs in at 2.85 lbs. I have not put any decals on yet as I want to see what happens on the maiden. The figures on the watt meter come out at 33 amps 345 watts on a 12x 6 prop. I will post the results of the maiden if all goes well.
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Mine was on B747-100
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With reference to Brian Coopers comments about putting the mechanics on board test flights. I have been aircraft engineer for over 30 years and i know for a fact that any engineer(mechanic) who has ever worked on any aircraft would not have any hesitation in flying on an aircraft they have worked on. Safety is the number one priority of any aircraft mechanic and that fact should never be doubted.
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The reason I switched off the tx was because nothing happened other than the three bleeds to indicate the cells. So just to see I switched the tax off then on and then the esc completed its start up tones then the motor ran. But it would not stop even with low throttle, the only way of stopping the motor was to disconnect the battery. I will now try other sequences to try and get it to arm properly. I must say every other esc I have had I have had no bother at all.
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Hi everyone I have a problem with two brand new esc,s. They are both from Hobbyking and are rated at 60A. Both of these esc,s are doing exactly the same thing. Once powered up to a fully charged 3s lipo they bleep 3 times to indicate the number of cells on the battery and then nothing. If I then switch off the transmitter the esc then continues with its start up tones and then the motor starts and will speed up with throttle movement on the tx. The motor will not stop until the tx is switched off. The receiver has been used before on other models and is fully servicable , I have been flying for many years and have been using electric flight nearly as long . I have never come across this problem before. Am I doing something wrong or do I have two brand new knackered esc,s.? Your thoughts please? Cheers. Dave
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Just a quick post hopefully. I'm at a local show with a local model retailer here . Can anyone tell me the spinner size for Ton Van Munsterens p51
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Props definitely on ok , When drone is powered up it struggles to get airborne, but once it is coaxed airborne it appears to fly normally. It's just getting it there that's the problem. Even with the throttle pushed straight to full this still occurs.
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Latest update..... I have checked all connections to esc's and flight controller (Naza M Lite) and all are fine and show no signs of corrosion. I have calibrated the Tx to the Naza software. I have checked all switches and controls on the Naza software. I have performed a calibration of the drones compass. Have checked that props are correct. Yet when i go to lift off the drone still fails to lift off immediately and scuttles across the floor. I am well and truly lost as what else it could be !!!!!!!!!!!
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Will try all these things tomorrow morning. Would the compass recalibration be in the Naza Software?
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Settings on my DX7 which i only use for this drone (fly Futaba for my aircraft). Throttle travel starts at -96 and ends at 97 at full throttle. Which approx the same figures for all controls on there full travel. Not too hot on using this Tx but all seems ok I think.
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Yes BEB I went back into NAZA software after i wiped the TX and re loaded the settings. I am pretty sure i have checked the TX servo throw settings but will re visit this. I am now thinking of stripping the drone down and rebuilding to see if that has ant effect.
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My Dji F450 with Naza lite controller and Spektrum RX struggles to lift off after several months of non flying. It has been stored in a warm house for the lay off period. When I try to lift off it scuttles around on the floor and will lift off with some coaxing. Once in the air it seems to perform ok, but it seems to be under powered. I have tried several different Lipo sizes. So far I have wiped the settings from the DX7s TX and set everything up again. Have plugged the drone into my computer and performed a calibration and checked all switches etc perform how they should. yet after all this it still performs as described. I am now lost as to what to do , has anyone got any suggestions.
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Nigel Hawes 45" Tucano
LHR Dave replied to LHR Dave's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Thanks guys, it must have been the kits you could buy that had a foam wing .I am happy to manufacture one from balsa. -
Hi guys I know this was the subject for a mass build and it has many any depth discussions on this forum, but can anyone please tell me if the plan that is available is for a built up wing or a foam wing. If it is the foam wing where is the best place to get one cut and covered in beach ply.
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A question for Ton. I notice on your P51 Mustang build that you have connected the rudder with hinges but do not have it controlled. Does this affect the flying at all or would it be ok to just glue the rudder to the fin permanently.?
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Some pics of the progress of my mustang . wing now is sheeted on the bottom ready now to add aileron servos etc. fuselage pic shows parts tapped on for effect. I am a little apprehensive when it comes to glassing the wing and fuselage as I have never tried this before , but there seems to be plenty advice on line and various debates on this sites forums as to the best approach whether its poly c or zap finishing resin or even L285. However im sure it will be fine.
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