Andrew Cousins
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Oh bugger. First things thanks for the help all it's appreciated. I have taken on board all the comments and recommendations. Ok the aileron is only on half the wing. The plane is a L19 bird dog. The plan shows the aileron built separate to the wing and does not mention any wash out in the aileron. I bow to the more experienced builders, but I don't know why it wouldn't show that. It's a Vaily Aviation plan. 1/4 scale Ok before I go cutting and tearing the aileron apart and you all now knowing designer, plane, scale and aileron is only half the wing. What are my options. 1 start the aileron from scratch and build in wash out. Not sure how this would work. Have to have a think. 2 cut the aileron L/E and try and twist it to the correct the difference. 3 leave it as is and trim it out. As mentioned. Mmm don't know. Help...
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Hi all got an up date for you all and another question. Ok I have built half of the wing and I used the wedge method to put wash out in the wing. I have fitted the aileron. Now the hinge point is the same distance from top of the T/E at rib 7 as it is at rib 15. Now if I put a metal rule on the surface of the wing and the surface of the aileron it's all good. See photo. Now if I do the same at rib 15 there is a difference. See photo. This difference is the same as the wash out I put into the wing 5mm. My question is, is this correct. Many thanks in advance Andrew c
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what control horn
Andrew Cousins replied to Andrew Cousins's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Thanks guys very helpful so far. I have just read on the plan ( a different sheet to the wing build) the plan states that the aileron throws are 1 1/2 inch up and 1 inch down. So as i under stand it offsetting the pivot point back (towards the T/E of the aileron) might actually help my situation? -
Hello all. i am after a little advice. I am starting my first 1/4 scale build a L19 bird dog. its going well but i have hit a little snag and i wounder if you all could help. OK the aileron is the issue. Now on smaller models i have always made sure that the control horn position is such that when the clevis is attached to the horn this joint sits directly over the hinge point. The point the wing trailing edge and aileron leading edge pivot. hope i described that correctly. Ok on this 1/4 scale the aileron leading edge is 3/8 deep balsa then i have a 9.5mm thick by 15mm deep ply plate to attach the control horn to. This is to the plan. my problem is the largest horn i have, only half of it sits on the ply if i try to get positioning of the pivot point as i described above. question is this position really that critical and any control horn recommendations. Many thanks in advance
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Hi All and thanks for the input. Flight1. The plane is a 1/4 scale L19 Bird dog. Peter Jenkins. Point taken but do you agree with the information on how to calculate and build in the wash out that is present in this document. Simon Cragg. No i don't have an incident meter but it is on my shopping list as i intend on building a lot more. Thanks for your input much appreciated.
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Martin like your idea to. I take it its just the tip rib you do this to? How do you lock in the wash out? I was thinking of using the method in my earlier post. Whats your thoughts. Many Thanks
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Ok the fog is clearing. I know wear i went wrong. Its the root of the rib tip not the wing length i should be measuring. Flight1 Many thanks for the link most helpful. Ok Martin you are correct the wash out is only on the outer half of the wing (rib 7 to 15). Now as the T/E of the ribs do not touch the building board i was thinking of making a tapered strip as you say Martin from the calculated height (at rib 15) to zero. To go from rib 15 to rib 7( rib 7 being zero). Then wear the rib meets the building board i will place the tapered strip. Lifting the ribs to place the strip under. would the following be the best way to build the wing and lock in the washout. 1. fit bottom spar to plan. 2. fit tapered (wash out ) strip to plan wear ribs meet the building board. Then fit ribs and glue to bottom spar. 3. fit top and rear spar then false leading edge. 4. Fit L/E and T/E sheeting to top of wing. Will this then lock in the wash out? sorry for all the questions bit nervous as i have not done wash out before and its a 1/4 scale. My first adventure into large scale. many thanks
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Ok looks like i have made bo bo. That does make more sens Told you all i haven't done this before. Ok so with a tapered wing i am going to have to measure the root from L/E to T/E then do my trig calculation. I will then have to raise the T/E of each wing rib by the result. Would i be correct in saying that as i get close to the WING root the rib will get bigger so the amount i have to raise the T/E will increase???? Or is this just done for the tip rib??
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Hello all i need a little help. I have not knowingly built a wing with washout. I am about to embark on a build that requires some wash out in the wing. I have done a little research and just wanted to see if the experts here can confirm if i am correct or not. OK the plan calls for 1.5deg of washout. So i have measured from the route wing rib to the tip. Now using trig i should be able to work out how much i have to lift the T/E of the wing tip rib. So if my wing length is say 95 cm (adjacent) and my angle is 1.5 deg using tan 1.5 X 95cm should give me 2.48 cm. Is this the correct amount i have the lift the T/E of the wing tip rib? It seems a lot!! I have another question but wanted to see if i have this correct before i ask the next question. Many thanks in advance.
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Wash out
Andrew Cousins replied to Andrew Cousins's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Piers thank for the reply. Yes the wing does have a D section LE but not shear webbing. The ribs are glued to the front and rear spar and the LE. You then unpin the wing except the root rib, prop up the tip rip TE to 3/8 and pin the tip rib down. Then add in the top spars front and rear. Then the top sheeting is added, then the wing removed from the board and the bottom sheeting added. It was at this point I noticed the sag. Thanks for the link I will have a read. Also thanks for your help. Edited By Andrew Cousins on 26/04/2019 13:42:22 -
Wash out
Andrew Cousins replied to Andrew Cousins's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hi all thanks for all the replies. I have emailed DB to see what they say. I think I will stick to the plans and instructions with the washout. Just would be nice to know if the relaxing when it's unpined is normal. Thanks all much appreciated -
Wash out
Andrew Cousins replied to Andrew Cousins's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Thanks both Peter yes I was suprised as well. Yes there is lower leading edge sheeting which is fitted after removing the wing from the board. Yes the wing is a flexible much more than others I have built. Simon I was contemplating not putting it in but not to sure so I put it in as the instructions said. -
Hi all after some advice from you guys that know about wash out. OK I am building a piper cub (DB cub). I am building the first wing panel. The instructions tell you to pin the bottom main spar and the rear spar(trailing edge end) to the board along with the T/E stock. Then fit and glue all the ribs. the next step is to glue the leading edge on to the ribs. OK all done it then asks you to unpin the wing from the board. You then have to place a 3/8th block under the T/E of the last rib. It then tells you to pin the root rib to the board and the last rib. I under stand that this is to give you the washout. we are getting to the question. You then fit and glue the top front and rear spars in and the leading edge top sheeting. You then assemble the tips. Now you can unpin the wing from the board. And here is the question. I understand the reason for washout but never built it into a wing before. My question is. After un pining the wing i would have expected the gap between the last rib and the board to stay at 3/8th but it isn,t it has reduced to half that. is the wash out still built into the wing or has something gone wrong? Many Thanks in advance
