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chris collis

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Posts posted by chris collis

  1. Does anyone know where I can obtain a small amount of etching fluid? I have used Primol from Solafilm for many years as a base coat before painting,mainly for warbirds and it works well.Also in time the paint wears away or chips on the likes of leading wing edges to give the model an authentic and worn look. I always cover my models in silver solafilm so it looks like the aluminium is showing when the paint chips.

  2. Mainly slope soarers and thermal gliders.A couple of artf’s and from plans,scale gliders but mostly ww2 pss such as 136in Lancasterx2,ov10 bronco,A37 dragonfly,wellington and some others. I try to design some of the prop airframes to be dual purpose so if I fancy flat field I drop in electric motors,takes maybe 30 minutes and go fly. I always build all the wiring in on the assembly of the model so they are plug and play.May as well have as much fun out of the same airframe,save building two of the same model.My only problem now is having a flying buddy to take over the tranny if I lose sight.Had a stroke last year and now partially blind on my left side.hay ho!can’t stop modelling,designing and building.

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  3. Hi Steve,Thank you for your kind remarks. I do have a plan for the Bronco but unfortunately when I built it I didn’t add any wood sizes or thickness,as I never thought anyone else would want to build one! I wouldn’t have thought that my plan would be anywhere near the standard that rcm&e would require.It would take me quite a while to put all the added detail on so that anyone could build it or could just wing it with the drawing as is.

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  4. Another two for one project.My O/D OV10 Bronco 60in span that I designed for pss and electric that I’ve repaired after an oops!All the wiring is installed so all I have to do is spend half an hour inserting motors and props and then down to the field for a flight.All built up construction and plaster plug made,then sent away for vac forming.Controls are ailerons,flaps,rudders,elevator and throttles when needed.Does anyone else use an airframe for power and slope so they can get more bang for their bucks? I always try to design my scale airframes to do this,saves building two aircraft!Even build two wings for twins or multi engine and one fuz.

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  5. I have finally finished and test flown my 1970s Osprey 100in glider. I’ve had the wings built for 45 years and in the loft so finally decided to build the rest of it! I built a home made power pod so it can thermal from flat field or take the pod off and slope soar it,very relaxing in light winds!Only 2 channel,rudder and elevator. The only downside is I had a stroke last year which resulted in partial blindness so I can only fly when I have someone to spot for me and take over if I lose it!

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  6. Kilner jar is just for the bulb so I don’t get my mucky paws on it and will be left slightly ajar when the bulb is lit.Lipo is kept separate but on a metal baking tray when in the garden away from any flammable material such as the garden fence!

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  7. On reflection of all the various advice and thoughts given, I think I am going to go down the road of discharging with a headlight bulb and disposing safely at the local recycling tip.don’t want to be responsible for any lithium fires! I have seen the videos for batteries catching fire in aircraft at flying fields!Just as an aside, I wonder how spent lithium batteries are going to be dealt with in electric vehicles when they come to the end of their lives?

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  8. I have a few old lipos that have puffed up and not holding charge.What is the safest way of disposing of them?recycle bin or are there any specialist disposal places to take them to?Anybody got any tips?Dont want to cause any chemical fires at a recycling plant!

  9. My last two Lancasters were covered with brown parcel paper applied onto the veneer with slightly watered down Pva .Then a thin coating to the paper and slowly laid onto the airframe,gently pressing out any air bubbles.Very strong when dry and any overlaps can be lightly sanded. The paint was applied thinly for the first coat and then thicker for the second and third coats. I found it was a good cheap way for covering large models.

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  10. Hi Eric, wasn’t sure if your P38 and Stuka had foam and obeche wing panels and if washout was already built in.On any model I have built in the past I’ve always when hot wiring the core,added a degree or two of washout. I think it may have helped with the flying characteristics.My last incarnation being a A37 Dragonfly. It flies pretty well. Will have to check carefully if the Fw190 has any washout built in.

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