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Jonathan M

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  1. Jonathan M

    Jonathan M posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  2. Jonathan M

    Jonathan M posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  3. Jonathan M

    Jonathan M posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  4. Jonathan M

    Jonathan M posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    Jonathan M posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    Jonathan M posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  7. Jonathan M
    Posted by Herri on 16/01/2017 19:19:18: A friend of mine is building a glider tug... I assume its a model glider tug
  8. Jonathan M
    Posted by Danny Fenton on 16/01/2017 19:37:40: I was quite amazed that a small indoor Piper Cub I have built has almost no dihedral, yet is stable (not amazingly stable I grant you) but it turns well on just rudder. I get the feeling the pendulum effect of having a high wing has more to do with the stability in this instance. Cheers Danny The same is reported in indoor scale of certain WW1 types, even including the Fokker Triplane... serindipitily avoiding the loss of scale points. Edited By Jonathan M on 16/01/2017 20:01:20 Edited By Jonathan M on 16/01/2017 20:01:43
  9. Jonathan M
    I have a programming problem. My (new-style black) DX7 thinks its very clever by offering various 'sailplane' options (in my case 2 ailerons) and a commensurate choice of flight-modes (launch, speed, cruise, thermal, landing). These can employ any combination of chosen switches, including the throttle-stick - albeit this only then works as a three-position switch rather than providing progressive travel. I want to programme my DLG with pre-set launch, speed, cruise and thermal modes, which make minute changes to flaperons and/or elevator, and I can easily achieve these using a sprung-loaded button for launch, and then a three-position flip-switch for level flight modes.  But I then want to use the throttle stick for progressive landing-flaps (flaperons with elevator compensation).  The problem with the provided 'camber system' is that the throttle stick is only recognised as a simple three-position 'switch' which I don't want. Does anyone have any idea how I can side-step this and achieve progressive flaperon braking controlled with throttle-stick (on the bottom half of its travel only)?  How do I use programmable mixes to do this - and will the system stop thinking the throttle stick is a three-position switch?! Edited By Jonathan M on 14/01/2017 19:49:51
  10. Jonathan M
    Thanks guys - I've now dealt with a few factors and much happier with the engine!  (Almost no longer a complete IC Newbie!?) I'd already swapped from the original ASP plug to a new OS F so that stayed the same, but now using Laser 5 fuel. I re-set the tappets, which were in fact considerably out. The Just Engines instructions are clear, but this video by them was also very helpful: **LINK** My only uncertainty was which TDC to use from the complete cycle of strokes, but assume this makes no difference as valves are closed in both cases. On my previous settings (i.e. the last time I flew) the RPM range with the 13x6 prop was from 9,900 down to 3,000. I then fiddled with the low-speed mixture - it turned out to be a bit too lean and when I richened it almost 1/8 of a turn the reliable idle reduced to 2,500 with no significant hesitation when the throttle is advanced, which I reckon is as good as it'll get until the engine has a couple of seasons under its belt. Finally, how often should the engine be serviced, what does this involve, and do people do this themselves or send the engine off? Edited By Jonathan M on 11/01/2017 15:35:55
  11. Jonathan M
    No probs Bill, but just to note that I made a couple of minor errors in my earlier post (which I can no longer edit). My final weight (having swapped to a smaller battery and lost 2oz of tail-lead) is now in fact 94oz. Wing area is actually 640 sq in, so loading is 21oz/sqft. According to Chris Foss' website, the original IC kit is a slightly smaller 594 sq in, with weights between 80 and 90oz depending on engine, thus loadings of between 19 and 22 oz/sqft.
  12. Jonathan M
    Posted by Bill_B on 09/01/2017 17:45:26: For those using a .70fs, what is the flying weight of your Acrowots? ARTF now with no extra lead, 92oz, 22 oz/sq ft, easily enough power with ASP 70FS, 12-15 min flight times with a 10oz tank, flies perfectly on the specified balance point.
  13. Jonathan M
    Thanks Jon. Well, the last third of my gallon of Special Four-Stroke 10% is now completely redundant. The engine is just too unreliable to fly on this - randomly cuts out at all but fastest throttle - and I've been using a mate's Irvine Sport 5 which gives complete confidence! I also love the fact that the whole starboard part of the aircraft (wind, u/c, fuse and tail parts) is now gum-free! Prop is now a 13x6 which is completely comfortable for me, and - despite tickover still a bit high - low wind landings are absolutely fine (Acro Wot ARTF).  The mid-position of my 3-way cut-off switch reduces throttle a bit more on the ground to prevent unwanted taxiing, but sometimes cuts out.  I imagine this will improve with use. Cheers Jon Edited By Jonathan M on 09/01/2017 08:59:43
  14. Jonathan M
    Had about half a dozen low-rates flights now over the last couple of weeks. Really really pleased with this as my first IC sports, and impressed with the wide speed range (ASP 70FS). Our patch is pretty ugly at the moment with molehills and sheep-shit everywhere, but the AW handled the rough ground brilliantly, especially as I fitted 3" low-bounce wheels. Been experimenting with slow-speed landings in little wind and more than happy with the stability and certainty. Also been tooling around trying basic aerobatics (plus a few prop-hangs... the kid... such an animal... he put me up to it!) and my confidence is increasing with each flight! On the ground, at various throttle settings, a full 10oz tank will give me 17mins, but I've set my timer to 12mins in the air - almost double what I used to get with the electric foam Riot I trained on - which more than enough. Yesterday had a two hour window between fog events. Only thing I struggled with a bit was seeing the upper wing clearly enough at distance when the conditions became a tad murkier later in the afternoon. White on white doesn't really work. Might wrap a 4" band of black Solatrim around the both surfaces of the wings at half-span, roughly in line with the black aileron servos. Jon
  15. Jonathan M
    I've just completed an ARTF Acro Wot with a 70FS up front and servos in tray provided. With a 2000mAh battery under the tank in the forward compartment, 50g of tail-weight was needed to get balance bang on the specified CG. I'm now going to move the battery aft to the compartment above the wing and hope to lose most of this added tail-weight. Your engine is likely to be lighter than mine (?), and assuming everything else is the same (i.e. an ARTF from the same production batch), then your battery position is your control - although its a faff moving it about, so putting up with a marginally heavy model by using stick-on-weights is certainly the easier option. If you do position the servos one bay forward, then ditch the supplied elevator linkage doweling and use a snake - see a few posts up.
  16. Jonathan M
    Just spoken to Spektrum. The simple way to re-set the TX from its 'confused' state is to hold the roller down when starting-up and keep holding it down until the normal screen appears after a few moments! No trip to the post office needed! Ta for the advices.
  17. Jonathan M
    Cheers guys Have checked the torque ratings and will fit HS85MGs all round. Weighing up coverings... as my eyesight is no longer 20/20, I want to avoid trouble with orientation and long-grass re-sighting, so thinking about black fuselage and fin/rudder, broad black and white stripes on each wing bottom, with fluorescent (neon pink or neon magenta) for the tailplane and the wing uppers... what colour choice leads only to the dearer Profilm/Oracover! Waiting for the SLEC jig and other bits to arrive and will then make a start. Jon
  18. Jonathan M
    Nope, formatting the SD card etc hasn't made any difference: looks like the DX7 will need to be sent off. But can at least fairly quickly programme up my old DX6i to fly the Acro-Wot in the interim. Actually I'm fed up with getting glow-fuel, oil and mud all over the 7. Modern ergo, over-styled trannies aren't exactly the cleverest when it comes to keeping them clean. Might just permanently dedicate the 6i for IC flying... along with a dedicated set of old clothing! My main reason, however, for upgrading to the new 7 was to give me greater flight-mode sophistication for my Blaster3 DLG (in the final stages of radio and control-linkages installation). The only TX cleverness the Acro-Wot might benefit from is a bit of CAR mixing, plus a few mm droop on both ailerons with slight up elevator mixed in for short landings - both of which are just achievable with the mute 6i.     Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 03/01/2017 11:00:08
  19. Jonathan M
    Good idea Gary. Will try this in the morning - not a fan of bending my brain with computer or tech work too late into the evening!
  20. Jonathan M
    Yes.... I didn't switch the TX off when inserting and removing the SD card! The ever-so-clever screen menu doesn't mention this particular caution, and I didn't have the manual open in front of me at the precise moment! Tried battery removal etc, but problem remains. Not a member of RCG, but will call HH tomorrow. Cheers!
  21. Jonathan M
    My 18-month old DX7 has suddenly had a mental breakdown. I had just exported all my new and revised model settings to the SD card then saved them onto my Mac, but when I put the SD card back in the RX's slot the screen went well funny. Now when I power it up, all I get is: Your system has a hardware fault which prevents safe operation! Please return it for service. T-Code: 00006E4Dh I-Code: 0302F000h Sequence: 0 I'll be on the blower to Horizon Hobby tomorrow - hopefully they'll accept it direct in the post from me rather than via my LMS. I don't know if its still in warranty and all that, but the real nuisance is that I'm not due back at work for another week! Uuurg!   Edited By Jonathan M on 02/01/2017 19:57:23
  22. Jonathan M
    Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 31/12/2016 19:58:31: As for your fuel, nothing really wrong with it but the castor will make a mess. A switch to 5% nitro will full synthetic oil at 15% will make it cleaner and make it run better. If (like many) you don't like the idea of oil that low then model technics sport 5 will be fine as well. Cheers Jon MT's Irvine Sport 5 uses 18% Klotz Super Techniplate oil, which has a 1:5 ratio of caster in it (i.e 3.5%) - would be much less sticky than the current 9% of thick sludge down the wing! Else, which 15% fully synthetic? Is the Laser 5 suitable? I do find the layout of Model Technic's site information a bit confusing.
  23. Jonathan M
    Thanks to all for the feedback! Yes, I might indeed do a build-thread. I'm still very much in the research phase (no pun meant!) but clearer now on the main issues. Plenty of time yet to decide on the covering: Solartex for the fuselage and film wings sounds do-able... just a question of learning to use an iron properly! Will fit Sullivan Gold-N-Rod snakes as I've used them on my recently-completed Acro Wot and do like them. Andy said "I'd go for an HS-85MG on the elevator, personally, but anything similar will do."  Did you mean for the elevator? Same for the rudder? I'm happy to install HS-85MGs all round (a weight saving here can be traded for a more robust fuselage) but will these modern micro-servos have enough torque for the tail surfaces? Happy 2017! Jon Edited By Jonathan M on 31/12/2016 20:00:17
  24. Jonathan M
    Yes, coming in a bit fast now, especially with the big prop chewing forward, might revert back to the 12x6 for a while yet!
  25. Jonathan M
    Thanks for the steer cymaz... good job I got into this hobby just before my brain started its slow but inexorable mutation into a Swiss cheese! Edjut Fact No 773: Turns out that the gallon of Model Technics Special FS fuel I've been using from the start already has 10% nitro in it... but at least its also lubricated with 9% caster and 9% EDL oil, so all this well within warranty instructions... I think! Tried the bigger 13x8 prop for two flights today. Top end revs now down to 8,500 (but need to check I didn't muck up the TX full throttle settings by mistake... err... Edjut Fact No 774), mid-throttle at 6,500 and idles at 3,500 still, although I expect this will improve. Starts with a finger-flick when warm and only cut out once, luckily on a landing approach! Is it worth checking the tappet clearances at this stage? Just want to say this to all who've helped: THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH! I've got much yet to learn with this and future engines, but I'm finally airborne with an IC powered model and all the contributions have made all the difference to my understanding. Happy 2017! Jon
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