David Murray 3

Posted by Percy Verance on 08/07/2019 21:18:55: Get a kit and build one. I guess I could if anything happens to mine, I was more asking as a few in our club have been looking for the acrowot XL. We have located one in Poland! Seems they are getting very rare.

Mike Etheridge..  no not me sorry. I have only been at this a few years. Edited By David Murray 3 on 15/07/2019 20:09:52

Anyone know what's happening with Ripmax and Acrowots in the UK. There doesn't seem to be any stock of the wood versions anywhere. Nobody seems to know when or if they will be available again?

I took the engine apart and stripped the carb. It was spotless inside no dirt on the filter at all. I sanded the reed block while it was out but there didn't seem to be anything wrong. Reeds were all ok. Only item that was suspect was the inlet diaphragm it seemed quite stiff. So was replaced and the other bits all cleaned and reset. At first I still stuggled to start it it was running really rough and kept cutting. Then strangely I barely touched the low end needle with a screw driver and it went much smoother. Despite me having removed and cleaned both needles I can only guess there was some dirt in there. Anyway it's now starting and running reliably. I took the opportunity to move the hall sensor over as far as possible to try and get the timing closer to 28 degrees but there isn't enough adjustment available but it's certainly better but still quite a lot of vibration. I'm leaving the cowl off for now so I can tune it in at the field but it's set way leaner on the low end than it was and running good. Thanks for all the help guysEdited By David Murray 3 on 01/12/2018 17:33:24

Posted by cymaz on 26/11/2018 22:38:24: ***THIS*** might fit Looks perfect but that's out of stock also - if the rebuild fails I will look for that model elsewhere.

Thanks for all the replies guys - lots for me to go and check. I already replaced the plug with a new NGK CM 6 still no good, Bearings seem fine and having pulled the cowl off there doesn't appear to be any leaks from the casing so hopefully seals ok. I did get a couple of back fires when turning over with the starter at the last attempt - seems to be a fuel supply issue as choking and then flipping it would get a cough but not start. Engine seemed to then flood quite quickly. I hadn't considered the reed block so will take a look at that also. I always store it with fuel in the tank and block the vent pipe so should stay wet but who knows what the previous owner did. I have ordered a carb rebuild kit so will replace all the membranes and filters etc and check the reeds and see where we get to from there. Will likely be weekend before the rebuild kit arrives so will be a few days before I can do the work.

Hi I have an old 30cc DLE engine (well mostly DLE but has an AGM Cylinder on it) that was in a second hand Pilot Yak plane I bought. Its been running ok for about 6 months with loads of power but has got progressively more difficult to start and now wont start at all. Carb is at the rear of the engine. Rather than mess around I was going to replace the whole carb with a Walbro unit but searching the internet throws up many part numbers for Walbro's for DLE 30's but all the ones I have looked at seem to be obsolete and no longer available. Walbro website isn't much help either. Does anyone know which Walbro model number I need and where I can get one in the UK.

Looks fantastic - much better than those pictured on the cloud models web site even! I was hoping to build a Jupiter but I cant find the plans or a kit so maybe I will consider these instead, would it work as a tail dragger I'm not sure about the trike undercarriage?

Finished - Well apart from ironing down the bubbles in covering for the fifth time - I'm sure there's a knack to this I haven't yet found to stop them re-appearing. This is my first attempt at a balsa kit build ignoring foamies that I started out on. I have copied Andy's setup with the motor and battery etc and swapped the landing gear for some a club member had spare. I gave the motor a quick blast in the kitchen seems to have tons of power on the 12x6 prop I best check the amps I think! Thanks for all the advice - I just need some good weather to fly it now - cant wait!

Thanks for the suggestion i will take a look.

. Edited By David Murray 3 on 05/01/2017 20:25:38

I pulled another ESC from another model and tried the motor with that - it ran for a few seconds and then started the same juddering. Give both ESC's work fine with other motors I think this concludes that its the motor that is faulty and i wasnt prepared to start trying to fix it so i have returned it. I just hope i can find one elsewhere as that was their last one.

After a really frustrating day im hoping someone can offer some help on the Quantum II 40 motor that i have installed into a Wot 4 (My sons Christmas present) We were planning to fly it tomorrow but sadly thats not going to happen now, I could not find the recommended Quantum 60 ESC in stock anywhere so i have used a 65A Turnigy AE programmable ESC which i had waiting for the Galaxy magician im building. I thought it should be ok, however although it initialises the motor ok it wont run the motor smoothly. It is very rough and after spending most of the day trying all the different configurations and timings and hours of listening to beeps im no nearer to getting this to work. The ESC instructions say there are three motor types and i have tried every timing setting on every motor type without success even though the motor turns smoothly by hand Is it possible that the motor is simply not compatible with this ESC? If so can anyone recommend something that works other than a Quantum 60 which i cant find available? I dont think the ESC is faulty as it runs another turnigy motor just fine. I guess the motor could be duff but its brand new. Edited By David Murray 3 on 01/01/2017 20:50:31

Thanks for all the advice so far - its coming along slow and steady. A few more questions - you mention to be careful not to build a twist into the wings but is there a way to line them up easily - its tricky with the dihedral as you cant lay them flat so is there a simple way to do this whist they are glued up? I think I will go with the 2 servos in the wing also as they are 22g MG digitals with 3 kg torque I have bought so should fit ok and it means I don't have to hack out the centre of the wing join so that should be stronger. Also I have bought some snakes from slec but I'm not sure how to fix these - I was thinking of using a tie wrap and epoxy to support the outer sleeve in the middle of the fuse but not sure if I also need to fix the ends or is attaching to the control horn and servo all that's needed at the ends?

Thanks guys - Yes i think power in reserve is always nice! Wishing i had seen the mods before i had glued the fusalage sides together! Its likely beyond me for my first build anyway. I think i will mirror your setup with the SK3 3548 and a smaller battery than i was thinking. I will try and do something similar with the tray. The bigger capacity was because i have 5 batteries for my current model (Riot) and i always seem to run out even after a recharge from the car battery. I like the idea of the removable top for access im guessing stuffing it into the tank area would have the C of g too far forwards - will have to think about the layout a bit now and get some bits ordered. I seem to spend more time trying to plan this out than building at the minute. Im also thinking of some more beefy landing gear im sure the wire is adequate but just looks a little weedy but then again its light i guess..... too many decisions! and i havent even begun to think about servos theres at least a week or research there i rekon. Edited By David Murray 3 on 10/10/2016 21:21:19

Many thanks Andy - I have a habbit of buying the wrong motors - i have a drawer full so good to know what others have done. How did you mount it? Did you build a mount box or just some standoffs onto the firewall and how well does it balance out for CofG with the 3000 4S - i was hoping to get a bit more capacity in the battery to be honest maybe 4500.

Hi All - I Just started building a magician and I have decided to go the electric route. Its my first build but so far so good. I am however a little unsure which motor to go for - based on one of the previous posts I have tried to find something similar on HobbyKing and have narrowed it down to these 3 Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3548- 1050kv Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3548-840kv Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 4240-740kv ​ I'm intending to pair one of these with a 65a ESC and a 4S battery both of which I need to purchase. I want the model to have enough power for acrobatics and good vertical climb ability. Which would be the most suitable motor do you think ?