Brian Dorricott 1
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Posts posted by Brian Dorricott 1
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Some good ideas and no gloop to clean off after every flight , plenty of choices in that range . Anything 60 size sounds just right then thanks for replies Harvard or Acrowot sound nice .
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I have a surplus NGH 17cc petrol engine and cannot decide what to put it in plane wise . I know that a 9cc NGH is 46-50 ish but not sure what the petrol 17cc equates too . Anyone put the NGH 17cc in anything interesting and what size was it ? It looks a big lump when it's your hand but I'm using a G5 plug so no battery and cdi ( got toasted in a fire) so weighs little less. Any successful marriages using NGH 17cc out there ? Or should I sell it and buy a Zenoah .
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The rudder is already a push pull using pushrods but the elevator halves are two pushrods into a connector and one metal geared servo . It worked ok on the original pushrods but I don't trust nearly 20 year-old nylon clevis and couldn't find any metal ones to fit the thread . I'll see how M3 threaded rod works when I get it all back together.
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I found a length of M3 threaded rod that is long enough and fits into the plastic pushrod tube , I cut this to length and fitted M3 clevis on both ends , this seems a perfect fit and operates perfectly . All I need now is a 3 more threaded rods as the rudder is push/pull and the elevator is in two halves and that may be way forward . The ARTF is a Magic Funfly 90 with recommended 60-90 two stroke so my Saito FA82b should be a good fit .
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I found a length of M3 threaded rod that is long enough and fits into the plastic pushrod tube , I cut this to length and fitted M3 clevis on both ends , this seems a perfect fit and operates perfectly . All I need now is a 3 more threaded rods as the rudder is push/pull and the elevator is in two halves and that may be way forward . The ARTF is a Magic Funfly 90 with recommended 60-90 two stroke so my Saito FA82b should be a good fit .
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Just to clarify its running on 12% Optifuel I don't use anything else . I will go with a loose fit so the tank can't escape but isn't rigid with foam to keep it roughly in place . Thanks for suggestions everyone better fixed in the workshop than deadstick above the Mersey where we fly !
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I have an old Funfly kit I recently put together and being 20 years old some of the hardware is a little brittle looking especially the nylon clevis on the pushrods . I measured the pushrod as being just under 2mm and got out the M2 clevis but the thread is wrong . I cannot find any partial threaded M2 pushrod anywhere longer than 300mm and I want about 500mm long. Anyone know of any supplier , I could go to M3 if necessary . I can't use the modern plastic inner/outer job because it's all boxed in without a major rebuild job so stuck with M2 or M3 .
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I wonder if anyone can offer a solution to a problem with the tank in a Funfly. The Funfly was a old ARTF kit I picked up at Weston Park ( missing it this year) and decided to put it together after totalling my Spacewalker due to dumb thumbs. I have fitted a Saito 82 and used the tank supplied and all seemed well on the ground but we could not get full power consistently it seemed to hunt . It was landed and we could see air at WOT in the fuel pipe so it was taken to workshop and stripped down . The clunk had fallen off but nothing else found with the tank so it was replaced with a new tankatank tested again with the same result air in the fuel feed from tank . Standing over it with the wing removed showed that the tank was frothing like mad at WOT , I loosened the ply plate and foam that held it in place and voila the air stopped . The tank is fitted with neck through the bulkhead with a foam buffer around it and the ply plate has foam around where it holds the tank but this seems too rigid . Should I wrap it in foam and and wedge it in or something else ? The clunk is a straight brass one should I change it to felt clunk , would that help ? Any ideas as I'm a bit restricted as to what tank I can fit easily and the Seagull oval ones fit really well . Just to be sure I balanced the prop because of the vibration but it didn't help . Over to the more experienced types !
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Does anyone know the M2 clevis(s) available from model shops pitch I.e. are they M2x0.4 or M2x0.45 it never states on the packet . I want to replace some nylon rubbish that came with an old ARTF Funfly and the pushrods are longer than the normal 300mm size.
Thanks in anticipation
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Thanks for replies , as I have no known glitches "if in doubt do nowt" is the way forward .
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No David not noticed any glitches at all , currently only have one Rx fitted a S6R in a Bixler and I only use the stabilisation for launching left handed just to keep the wings leveled until I get my hands back on the controls . Not noticed any problems at all except for the telemetry being swamped when you have them close together but that's a known issue . I was going to fit a S6R in my new Phoenix 2.4 glider but first impressions are it doesn't need stabilisation so might save it for something else that does .
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Thanks for reply David but it's the firmware that I think is the problem not the operating software . I read somewhere of glitches for want of a better word occuring on these transmitters and it was firmware issue . Open TX I can upgrade anytime but the issue is firmware available for TX not RX .
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I've found 4 Max own brand servos excellent both nylon and metal geared with a keen price . As someone said above George wouldn't sell rubbish he has his reputation to think of .
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I have a QX7 and various X6R and S6R receivers all a few years old on firmware etc and have seen reports of the firmware needing an update . I have read these mentions of this but can't seem to get a straight answer . Does the QX7 and S/X series need an update urgently ? I looked on the frsky website and only the transmitter has a new firmware update but not the receivers , are they compatable with each other ? Should I leave well alone until Rx firmware available ? Anyone got definite answer as I keep getting confused with the replies , usually on this forum it's the correct answer .
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I have a new Phoenix 2.4 glider and flew it for the first time yesterday ,gentle flyer lovely to fly but have a question on the flaps . A pal suggested at 50% flap 10% elevator and 100%/20% elevator , this didn't seem to be much movement at all . Sure enough when landing it just wanted to float on and I had to push it down before running out of field but it landed ok . So here's the admission not the best trimming tinkering pilot in the world ( only started 3 years ago) so bit nervous of getting to height and messing about with flaps etc , would ask one the more experienced guys to help but we are in lockdown so not on .
The question is the elevator throw is not enormous as set up to instructions but 10/20% just doesn't seem enough to compensate the flaps . Does 10/20% sound about right for a foamy glider ?
Another off topic question does anyone launch 2.4m foamies themselves or is always a helper , I launch my Bixler left-handed no problem . Yesterday at our field near the Mersey there were 5/6 different groups picnicking on the field , all moved when asked but it seems a problem we didn't have before , they seem to have claimed our field during the pandemic . Field is council owned but rented and the gate shows flying times but some people must be dyslexic or ignorant !
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Thanks for info so brown colour and use sparingly and keep dry . I still can't see why they don't put foaming on the bottle and make it easy but Gorilla glue is like Loctite one name dozens of varieties . Normally use aliphatic for most jobs anyway but thought of it for those hamfisted jobs where it needs a bit of filling as you have left a bit of a hole.
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Can anyone tell me which Gorilla glue is the foaming sort good for filling gaps ? I see loads of different types non foaming , clear etc which is the correct one for glueing balsa and filling gaps . What sort of drying times can you expect and does it sand well ? I didn't see any point in buying until I find the right one because the prices vary enormously .
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Given the current situation do you think we will still get the RCME magazine in the coming months ? Not sure whether printers etc are essential workers or not . I ask because as this situation goes on things to read and divert oneself may be short supply and workshop builds can only take up so much time . Also beware that Corry\Emmerdale\Eastenders are in short supply soon so the wife may want to be entertained further eating into workshop time.
Happy isolation .
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I have been dabbling with the AR636 and AR636a receivers using the USB prog lead and Spectrum downloaded software , and if you watch in conjunction with the series of You Tube videos it will click eventually .
If you have a spare channel you can have setting off, setting 1, setting 2 on a 3 way switch . If you want you can set the rate gains from the transmitter to find the right level of stabilisation then program it permanently in.
To give an example I was given a Eflite P51 foamy that has all six channels in use but uses the flap channel in dual mode giving
Mode 1 full flap and 90% stabilisation rate
Mode 2 take off flap 80% stabilisation rate
Mode 3 normal mode 40% stabilisation rate . These are all fixed but can be made variable using the transmitter.
I found it a bit difficult to find any actual settings because it's a bit suck and see for every plane it's different . The stabilisation settings are for pitch,yaw,roll but you can change those on the tx . Just make sure you can switch it off i.e. zero rate gain just in case . I have not mentioned the heading gain as you need to master the rate gains first . Got any questions I'll try and answer , I'm no expert but it's usually easy to work out .
Try the You Tube guides first they are quite good but need watching a few times to click - enjoy .
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I have picked up a Eflite P51 fitted with a AR636a and being the inquisitive type looked at the settings of the beast and was surprised at the results
FM1 rates 90% ABS
FM2 rates 80% ABS
FM3 rates 39% ABS
As it has flaps and retracts on a six channel Rx it shares it's flight mode selection switch with the flaps on AUX1 .
That seems a lot of stabilisation on the rates , not sure whether the FM change as it's the flaps as well on the switch .
Anyone throw any light on it ? Not flown it yet but it flew well enough down our field by another club member ( but he has no idea what AS3X is ) .
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Roger Bostik or contact adhesive will be fine . Keep the horizontal tailplane as well because if you break the fin you can half the tailplane and use that as a fin . It works a treat and gets you flying again without the £25 cost of the new one . Just watch on the fin over time that it has not creased just above the slot as this is a weak point . I don't know if your a beginner but once you get the basics on an Apprentice ditch the ASX it's much nicer on a normal receiver as the settings are a bit nannyish.
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It needs glueing in , ask me how I know !
I didn't and it came loose in the air , I used UHU POR just a smear . It does look secure when pushed into the slot but it isn't .
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Thank you Denis that makes sense otherwise you would never be able to trim it properly.
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I have a AR636a rescued from a burnt out Radian XL that I have reprogrammed for use on a cheap Chinese flying wing . The setups gone ok everything moves the correct way even the stabilisation . The 2 questions I have relate to the stabilisation part
I have no idea what to set the rate gains on a flying wing , I have it on a 3 position switch with up being off and then choice of 2 settings . I don't want heading hold just looking for a starting setting on rates and priority ?
Second as you have no effective yaw control what do set the yaw rates as ? I would have thought zero as I'm only using elevons . Anyone been here and got any pointers as to a good setup ?
Just for information I did it all wrong initially , the transmitter is not set up for Elevons just normal fixed wing and everything is set on the receiver including trims . So how do set trims if it's wildly out on maiden flight ?
NGH 17cc petrol what to put it in
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
As the NGH 17cc is already a petrol engine if you put in the G5 plug and ignite it voila it runs no differently from using the CDI pack . As my CDI packs all got burned in a fire but the engines were elsewhere £7 for a G5 plug or £50+ for a CDI was a no brainer ! This setup is no different to the smallest petrol OS 2 stroke but is only applicable to petrol engines with same size thread as a glow plug . No extra battery and CDI weight to worry about , the only real downside is the bark of the engine despite buying a "quiet" exhaust from JE . It is a little loud at WOT and the noise a gruff bark but that's nothing really to do with ignition swop but the exhaust design . Look up OS GGT10 petrol engine that's the same setup and OS don't usually get it wrong !