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Sam Taylor 1

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  1. Sam Taylor 1
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  2. Sam Taylor 1
    Thanks for all the help. I've got the solenoid working now when connected directly to my battery. The plunger needs to be pulled out 5-7mm and then when the pos. and neg. leads are connected to the pos. and neg. terminals of the battery, the magnet switches on and pulls the plunger in. When the power is removed the plunger doesn't just fall out. It is still held in place by the permanent magnet, but the magnetic force is low enough to be able to pull the plunger out. The solenoid doesn't actually have a spring. We didn't need to reverse the polarity or anything to get it working. When the power is off the plunger remains sucked in, but can be removed with a bit of force. Applying the power means that the plunger is firmly held in. ​Now that's figured out, all that remains is to be able to get it working when it's connected to my RX and TX. As there is no polarity reversal required, surely all I need is the Turnigy RX switch or the Dr Mad Thrust switch?
  3. Sam Taylor 1
    The solenoid I've got is 6V, 5W DC (so 0.833A). Stock code is 3002500760 http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/002e/0900766b8002e8f6.pdf ​These are the instructions which someone posted earlier.
  4. Sam Taylor 1
    thanks for the suggestions guys. My preference would be to stick with a solenoid though. If I were to buy a different type of pull action solenoid, which wasn't a latching one, could I use this with the Dr Mad Thrust Electronic On/Off switch? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dr-Mad-Thrust-Electronic-On-Off-Switch-Receiver-on-off-switch-like-Turnigy-/351738864206?hash=item51e545224e:g:eLoAAOSwPc9WuIT1 ​Gary, you said that to make this particular solenoid work I need to use a "relay operated by a receiver controlled switch as suggested above, with at least 2 changeover contacts to provide a polarity reversing circuit​". How would I make this circuit? Would the Turnigy RX switch not do the job on its own?   Edited By Sam Taylor 1 on 04/05/2017 13:15:19
  5. Sam Taylor 1
    Dick, that is the exact one I've got! I bought it because I needed a 6V pull action solenoid. I had no idea that it was a 'latching type' with complicated wiring. ​I haven't yet proved that the solenoid actually works. Connecting the pos. and neg. terminals of the battery and the solenoid does nothing, and connecting to the pos. of the battery to the neg. of the solenoid and vice versa does nothing either. I don't know very much about electronics, but I know that just connecting the solenoid to the battery won't make it work. The purpose of the solenoid is to hold back a latch. When the solenoid pulls in the latch is released, letting the glider wings fold out. Because of the radial force, I picked a solenoid rather than a linear servo. If there are pull action servos, which can withstand some radial force then this could be a suitable option.
  6. Sam Taylor 1
    Thanks Denis, I'll get myself one of those then. The wiring looks much simpler than the actual Turnigy thing as well.
  7. Sam Taylor 1
    Would this thing be suitable for operating the solenoid remotely? **LINK**
  8. Sam Taylor 1
    Dick, the solenoid doesn't move when I connect the red and black wires directly to the red and black terminals of the battery. ​here is a picture of the equipment I've got at the moment (TX out of shot)
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  11. Sam Taylor 1
    Thanks Plummet. I wasn't sure whether I needed to use a separate battery or not. The solenoid will need to be energised for around 20-30 seconds. I'm connecting 4 servos to my RX as well, so with the solenoid as well I guess this will draw a lot of current? ​In terms of connecting the receiver controlled switch to the solenoid with an external battery, is there any wiring diagrams explaining how to do this? ​Unfortunately it's too late to start changing the design, so I'm going to have to stick with a solenoid. The finished glider needs to be handed in next week!
  12. Sam Taylor 1
    I was under the impression that without a switching circuit of any sort, the solenoid won't move when I touch the red and black wires to the pos. and neg. terminals of the RX channel I want to use?
  13. Sam Taylor 1
    Thanks for all the replies! It isn't a requirement to design and build my own circuit, so one of those receiver operated switches would be ideal. I assume with this that you plug the receiver controlled switch into the RX and then solder the ends of the solenoid wires to the matching ends of the switch?
  14. Sam Taylor 1
    Hi, I'm currently doing a project at university where I'm building a remote controlled glider with retractable wings. Part of the wing deployment mechanism uses a solenoid which needs to be controlled by the transmitter (preferably using channel 5 or 6, which are switches). However I'm having trouble trying to get the solenoid working. The 6V solenoid I'm using has 2 wires; red and black. When I touch the ends of the wires onto the positive and negative terminals of my receiver nothing happens. I tried this for channels 5 & 6, and flicked the switches on the transmitter and still nothing happens. Am I missing a key component here? I haven't yet joined the solenoid wires to my JR connector, but surely this shouldn't make a difference? Because no wires are connected to the control pin on channels 5 or 6 on the RX is this the cause of my problem? Please note I'm using a 6V battery. Any help would be much appreciated! (I would upload a picture of the components I'm using by I don't know how)
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