John Payne
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Posts posted by John Payne
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Hope you sort it. Cheers, John.Hi John, just a thought, but is a case where the throttle has to go to 25% before the stabilisation kicks in? I know that my Trojan is like that.
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Hi. Just a thought, but a quick Google finds some people who had the same problem and the props were on the wrong motors and therefore not generating enough lift. Check again that the props are on the correct motors and turning the correct way. I know there are two of each direction but perhaps they are on the wrong motors. Sorry if you have already checked this when you say you have checked the props.
John.
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I build mainly from plans but will throw in a foamy or ARTF if I like the model.
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Hi Andrew, just seen this thread. I have flown my Astro Hog with an ASP 52 four stroke (underpowered for the windier weather and the one in my picture) a Thunder Tiger 91 four stroke (comfortably overpowered!) and an ASP 65 four stroke which was fine for my style of aerobatic fun. I also built it from the original plan with inset ailerons and lots of dihedral. To say the rudder had authority is an understatement. I cut the wing in half and reduced the dihedral to 1 inch under each tip and it now flies a lot better. It is not unstable without the excess dihedral (needed when it was first designed), it flies nice and smooth and it performs nice aerobatics. Hope this helps.
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My apologies mate, got my convex and concave mixed up. The CONCAVE side is away from the tail boom (just checked again to make sure, twice!).
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Hi Robert, just checked mine and the convex face is away from the tail boom.
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Did anyone else notice that one of the channels on the box was the Rubber? Perhaps to make it bounce better on landing......... John.
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Well, I only use two cell lipos through a switch and as such haven't had any problems. It would be a good idea to avoid using the cheaper switches available. The ones on the 3 and 4 cell lipos are disconnected when I change the battery after each flight so the problem doesn't happen there. One of the problems with anything like this is that you can read an awful lot of stuff and expect a lot of bad things to happen. My experience is that I haven't had any problems with the batteries, switches or regulators.
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Hi Ron. I put the regulator between the switch and receiver so that the regulator is isolated from the battery when it is switched off. Seemed to be a better option than having it loading the battery all the time.
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Hi Ron, not sure what the volt range is, but I have used them on 3 and 4 cell lipos and they have been OK. I use them also in electric models where I tap off the connectors to provide a feed to the receiver and this has more chance of preventing a problem if the ESC goes AWOL.
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Hi Ron, I don't know too much about how they operate, but if you see the regulator as a funnel, the larger connector is where you put in the power (female connector) and the smaller connector is where the regulated supply comes out (male connector). I'm not sure if you can damage them by connecting up the wrong way, but I connected all mine up that way and had no problems.
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Sounds right to me mate. They use curve, I think, to describe what the line looks like when you add expo, with the default "curve" being a straight line with no expo. Glad you got it sorted. John.
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Hi Neale, are you moving the switch to each position to make the change for that particular position? John.
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Hi Martin, I cured one of mine with a similar issue by using a longer length of fuel tube and routing it up over the level of the tank, on the engine side of the firewall, so the fuel had to go "uphill" to get to the engine, It did the job and it didn't seem to effect the way the engine ran. I'm sure I saw that tip on this forum some time ago. It's a simple fix and is worth a try. Cheers, John.
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Looking very nice. Always fancied one this size.
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Hi Dean, I wondered about that as well when I first got the kit. My solution was to cut a foam platform to position in the tank bay, foam because it could be pushed into place, and stop the tank from dropping. I also pushed foam bits around the tank to hold it steady and put some balsa across the back just to stop it from moving backwards. Had no problems with the tank to date so it seems to work OK. Hope that helps, and I am sure you will love the plane when you get to fly it. Good luck. Cheers, John.
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Hi guys. I endorse the "don't touch" approach with cylinder heads just after running, way too hot for healthy fingers! Another thing to check, if it is running with a silencer pressure feed, is the pressure take off on the silencer. It could be gummed up with old castor and not pressurising the tank at all and causing a vacuum instead, which in turn stops the engine. Seen this a couple of times before. Cheers, John.
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Hi. The BNF version of the Radion Pro is very much how you describe, with the Spektrum rx, servos and wires all crammed in to the vented area. The front is for the battery, ESC and motor, so you may have trouble fitting the RX in as well without compromising access and the CG. When you get it sorted it is a nice simple glider to fly. Cheers, John.
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Hi Tony, just a thought. Is the throttle reversed on the model number you are trying to bind to? That is what would happen as it ses the throttle as wide open and not closed if the model has an ESC. Hope you get it sorted. Cheers, John.
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Hi Dylan, photos as promised. The first couple are as good as I could get to show the components mounted in my Wot 4. If you look closely you can see the connections and follow the wires from rx to regulator to switch to lipo.
The final photo is with the spaghetti tucked away and the components mounted on velcro in the model.
You can get rid of a lot of the excess wire if you hard wire the regulator to the switch harness. If you need anything clarifying just say. Cheers, John
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Hi Dylan. It is battery to switch to regulator to rx. That way you are cutting off power to the regulator (and rx) which will have quiescent drain ( always draining battery ) if always connected to battery. The pics tomorrow should make things clear. Cheers, John.
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Hi Dylan. I have been using just that set up in a few models for a while now and although it is a fiddle to set up, it is worth it. You need to either do what I did and get matching connectors for the regulator, usually sold as a pair, and use them to connect in to the switch harness on the rx side. Alternatively you can just hard wire it in, but I wanted to be able to swap them about if necessary. Not sure if there is a right and wrong way, but I wire them in with the female connector to the switch and the male connector to the rx. On the battery side of the switch I used the same connectors for the switch harness and lipo, 2mm plugs, obviously make sure they connect properly(!) and there you go. If you need, I can get some photos in the morning and post showing the set up in one of my models. I get several sessions out of a 2s 1000 mA lipo before I charge it with around 5 or 6 flights per session. I have 3 lipos which are used in which ever models I take (I only ever take 3 models max because of space) and charge them when they get to around 50%. I also use one in a model with an orange stabiliser in and it copes very well on it. The only issue I have found is that some of the smaller servos do not like 6V an so a 4.8V regulator is used. Hope his helps. Cheers, John.
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Glad to help. Cheers, John.
How to recognize a flight controller
in Multi-Rotor
Posted
Hi Robert, if you Google for "KK flight controller manual" you should find the info you need. The newer controller now has the screen as a remote unit but the programming manual should give you a good idea on how to change things via the buttons and screen. Good luck.