Peter Robinson 9

Hi Hmmm I know but a lot of my models tend to end up with large batteries up front to obtain cg. Maybe picking the wrong models.

Hi all figured out the cg made some acrylic plates so I can suspend the model under the stairs. The instructions state 97mm along parallel along the L.E, outer panel to the end root rib. The model balanced on the mark fantastic using one LIfe battery (Ign.) 6v NiMah for Rx and Lipo for on board starter.

Hi folks finally got back to the build. Fitted the rear canopy, it took a while because you have to cut out for the wing profile so constantly fitting and re-fitting the wings being careful not to take too much away. Patience is the key here, I think I spent a good afternoon fitting the canopy.

Hi, made up a power cable last night using MPX connector for the 3000 nimh receiver battery from underneath the cowl to the inside the fus and used a MPX mould to tidy up the wiring (before and after shot). To save confusion when charging I use MPX for Nimh, XT60 for lipo's and Xt30 for Life batteries.

Hi, fitted the two antenna's found it a bit difficult to try and place them with all that carbon and metal around. decided to fit one coming out of the bottom vertically downwards out of the fus. and the other one horizontal at the back of the wing support.

Hi, finally got all the servo wires sorted underneath the tray all nice and tidy just need to sort out and tidy up power cables to the Rx. Fitted the electronic switch for the lighting in the wingtips and eventually after test flying some wheel spats landing lights to be installed. Fitted the life 700Mah battery for the lights on the servo tray and connected up all working great. Noticed the guide tubes for the elevator, rudder and rear steerable are loose in the formers so applied some more glue stop them moving. Looked at battery placement under the cowl they all fit so that's good news that includes a LIfe battery for ignition, starter lipo battery and Ni-cad battery for the Rx hopefully will not need any weight or it might be to much we will have to see when I check cg. Next job will be fitting rear canopy with cut-outs for the wing halves.

Hi done some more work on wiring of the ailerons and flaps decided to have a go at using s-bus from the rx. So there is only one lead going from the rx to the unit but gives me 4 ch’s output. The unit is a Hacker from west London models about £17.

Hi, just a small job last night fitting the canopy and pilot with small screws and a small amount of canopy glue. No trimming necessary straight out of the box.

Hi Ernie I will check it out. Did some more work on the lysander sorting out the wing cabane/struts. All nicely packaged, first job was to epoxy the parts into the aluminium struts making sure you have a left and right hand versions. All the items went together with no problems using screws and epoxy. I did change the bolts to cap head just to make life easier rather than supplied Philips screws fjyh Once assembled I tried them on the aircraft and it was obvious there was not enough angle or spread of the struts so carefully sanded the fixture for a more obtuse angle. (see pic). In the instructions it specifies a distance from the root outwards along the wing and a distance in from the edge of the wing to find a 3mm hole that was no problem. Then a measurement from that hole of 200mm to the leading edge that was difficult to find. The only way was to run your finger pressing hard on the covering to feel for the ident but managed in the end to find it. Also the brackets that go into the wing have two holes you only need to use one I spent ages trying to find the second hole but not necessary as the bracket needs to swivel for alignment. I changed the fixing point from the ccklip supplied to a 4mm nylok and bolt, thought it would be easier with a nut runner and allen key rather than messing about with pliers trying to get the clip in to the tiny hole

Hi fitted some plywood supports and screws to the rear cockpit cover.

Hi did some more work last night. Started on the undercarriage, First job was to re-enforce the u/c wheel plate with some carbon just to give it some extra strength, the mouldings are epoxy glass with a small plywood insert glued to were the bolt goes through. I replaced the kit wheels with some inflatable wheels I thought the ones in the kit were too hard and solid. The aluminium u/c was a bit awkward trying to put the bolt in with the wheel at the same time passing through the spat but managed it ok. I fitted the U/C to the fus no problems there a bit tight to get the cap head bolts in but ok. Then got the parts for the struts fixings on the u/c, dremeled out the wheel spats mouldings for the fixing points and found out the u/c was on the wrong way for the bolt holes to line up, so had to strip down the spats and reverse the aluminium.

Hi, Next job is to work on the pushrods and control links for the elevator and rudder (all 3mm pushrods) I temporarily placed the rudder and tail plane into position in the fus (not glued) so I could sort out the length of the pushrods. I cut out the covering for the tail plane and found the 2 exit holes for the elevator pushrods and single rudder pushrod, I tidied them up with some CA pushing the covering back into the cut out. The pushrods were slightly to long so I trimmed them back and had to turn the two elevator servos around 180 degrees to make everything work. The rudder pushrod came out in the wrong place I cured it with putting in a z bend to increase its height. .

Thank you Hi folks did some more work on the lysander concentrating on the fin and tailplane fitting the F/G control horns first job was to drill some gluing holes to stop them from pulling out. managed to find the slots in the tail and in the rudder cleaned them up ready for gluing and masking. Also at this time used the robart type hinges supplied to hinge all the tail and rudder no problems with these.

Fitted a new platform to fix the ignition unit to the side of the engine and give me a nice flat plate on the top of the engine for batteries which could be Li-fe, NiCad or lipo depending on the cg situation.

Hi Back on the build again busy summer flying etc. Started to position the receiver and rc switch in the model made a little platform for the rx to sit on and screw down and rc and the same for the rc switch.

Hi To hot to fly today doing a bit more on the Lysander fitted the cowl today made up some cardboard circles two layers of 3mm and some gelutong stand-offs. Given myself about 6mm clearance on the prop. Next is dremel a hole for the plug or a hole for the cylinder head and silencer.

Hi Like this on my Bristol with tie wraps.

Done some more work on the lysander in-between flying. Bolted the engine in now and fitted the tank also went round with PVA around the formers give it some more strength. Looking at now placement of the ignition unit and batteries location. I think I will need some nose weight so if i can build a battery tray on top of the engine I can have a choice of nimah, sub-c's or LiFe battery at the front. The ignition unit is fitted to the side to save space and lots of room in the cowl. I will not know what is needed until final assembly hopefully with the on board starter it will not need to much.

Had to make a tank cradle today they wasn’t anything in the kit to support the tank. Tweaked it in a few places but now can remove with the tank attached to the cradle. All the 2mm holes are just to make sure l can screw it down without hitting a gap in the framework.

Hi Paul just modified my throttle servo to your drawings all being well with some end point settings and a curve to fine tune should work great. Thanks for the info, peter

Hi, thanks for the info useful numbers I usually have to use pitch curves to get a more proportional/linear throttle with the aid of a tacho. Peter

The kit comes with a very nice fuel tank not the usual standard white tank, as you can see loads of room not sure how it is fitted yet I will have a look at it next. Might need to drill a additional hole for fuel feed through the firewall.

Fitted the engine temporarily and sorted out some nice straight control runs for the choke and throttle. I moved the throttle servo to a side mounting system as can be seen this gives me a nice straight run to the carb.

Also at this time strengthened the firewall it looked glued but in a few areas you can see day light, so put some carbon toes around the front firewall and some at the back. feels now a lot stronger.

Hi folks Yes I have been impressed by the accessories. started on engine mounting the kit comes with plywood templates 1 for os33 and the other one for dle35. Had to modify the dle template the 30 has slightly different mounting holes. All drilled into firewall also drilled for the choke and throttle.