Peter Robinson 9

Hi Bruce, sorry to hear about the model you lost. I have just started to use the electronic switches (soft switch) which have no mechanical parts. They are similar to the powerbox switch you can get them from HK (rated at 5amps). Another one I am using comes from T9 hobbysport which are rated at 14 amps plus duel battery setup. These switches always default to on if there is a problem. The other method is to bypass the switch for a direct connection if practical in the model. I have used in the past making up a jumper lead which I plug in for each flight for power (3-4mm gold connectors) Just a thought. Peter

Hi i had a similar problem with my NGH38 with vibration. The fix I found was to retap the threads from 4mm to 5mm using a plug tap. The view I took was its damaged any way so nothing to lose. This meant ordering some 5mm cap head bolts and chopping the heads off and using them as studs, then use stud lock to lock them in place and use nuts to tighten the silencer etc. Just a suggestion. Peter