Peter Costello

Tim, I have just tried a 4S battery and got 400+watts pulling just under 40 amps. So much for the motor rating but it may mean that it won't last very long!! Esc got quite warm so will have to vent it well. Thanks very much for your advice though - may well come in useful if it all goes bang!! Peter

Tim, Thanks but you didn't put the link in for the motor! I thought it was only me who did things like that. I am not experienced with props - I thought it was the case that the bigger the pitch the more power?? Would a 6x5 or 4 prop give me more? Please sir I want some more!! Had a watt meter for some years now so escaped the naughty step (smug!) - this time!! Peter

Tim, I understand the original model was ic. There used to be a forum topic on this (with pics) but can't find it (lost my original reply to you when I went looking for it!!). The motor is a GS B36-30-08 rated at 4000kv but only 330watts. If Watts = volts x amps and I increase the volts for the same watts then the amps should reduce? Then if I increase the watts on the already increased volts then the amps should vary a little and hopefully stay within 40amps! That is my theory!! No pics as I am work but if you can find the original thread there are some good ones there. The motor is in the rear of the fuz and is fitted using a standard four pronged star if you get what I mean.   I think I need around 400watts spinning a 6x5.5 prop. Peter

Sorry Tim, I really meant 40 amps - so I don't have to purchase a new esc. I already have a 4s battery. My theory being that if I get a bigger motor but reduce the current by using a 4S battery I am hopeful that 40 amps will not be exceeded. Any idea of a motor?? bearing in mind a max 6" prop. Peter

Tim, Looked the motor up on the net and found that it is only rated at 330w! It was given from a friend so didn't have the spec sheet. This obviously isn't big enough as I would like around 120W/lb as I really want it to zoom. If I use a 4S batt this should reduce the current to keep it within 40W if I increase the power. The question is what motor? Can you suggest something - not too up market as I have exceeded the budget already. Peter

I have been given (lucky boy) a 53" fan trainer that is sturdily built (weighs 3.5lbs w/o battery) and although I have a motor rated at 4000kv I can't get more that 350 watts on max power using 3S 3000ma battery. Main restriction is the size of the prop which is max 6" due to design - there used to be a thread somewhere on the forum for the fan trainer but with ic engine but can't find it (just in case someone didn't know the design - which is unusual for a propped ac). Am using 6x5.5 prop and a 40 amp esc. I need MORE POWER! Any ideas?? Would a 4S battery help? but that would mean v. high revs?   Thanks in anticipation!! Peter

Thanks for your comments guys - I hadn't realised that the GWS was only a couple of inches less wingspan - defo worth thinking about.  At least £100 extra for a couple of inches for the others I was considering!! but I do like the paint jobs that the Starmax especially have got, something I can't replicate. 

Hi Eddie, Sorry you're having trouble.  I didn't find the build easy and some three years down the road the glue is beginning to give way along the fuz where plasic meets (but only just) the wood.  I fly on a 4000 3S battery that fits beatifully (width wise) and have it all the way up front into the nose.  I have also had to add 3oz of lead to get the CoG right but with two 250w motors she flies really well for about an eight minute flight. Not overpowered so doesn't get "over scale".  She is a bit of a brick and lands quite hard - which doesn't help the delicate parts of the fuz (currently in for repairs to said parts!) She is still beautiful in the air and I think is worth the effort. Peter

I am thinking about a foamy A-10 perhaps from Starmax, HobbyLobby or BananaHobby but all do not recommend retracts on grass.  I use a grass patch which is pretty good but no billiard table. Options are to go hand launch or dolly.  Anybody got any experiences with any of these makes of A-10??  Thanks to Mr Ashby I already know about the Top Gun A-10.   Peter

Finally managed to get act together and after fitting new motor mounts and motors and repair all damage and fitted new (slightly larger pitch) folding props got it in the air last night for two flights.  Well worth the effort.  She may not look too pretty on the ground (I am not great at hiding repairs/paint job etc) but you can't see that detail in the air - t'riffic - my Katana now has a serious rival. Hope all the rest of you are up and flying with yours by now.  If not - keep at it - well worth the wait/work. Peter

Darren,   Now over three years since I built mine but  I made the nose removable for easy battery removal.  My Mossie just fits in the car in a oner so I don't have to remove the wings but I did it from the top - which does mean the plastic fuz containing the canopy does need to come off.  I find/found it all very fiddly and if you read other posts in this thread just about everybody dislikes the way the plastic and balsa fit together.  You are right, the plans are more than a bit vague in places - I also had some trouble as this was my first non ARTF - so had little/no building experience. Keep going - it is worth it in the end - she flies well and looks great in the air. Peter

Glenn, I am using folding props both going in the same direction - no adverse yaw detected.  I too was worried about long battery leads but seems to be ok.  I have thought about rudder but unless you get the servo on CoG it will mean even more weight in the nose to counter.  I don't trust myself to hand launch (right handed) so am building a dolly to see if it will work.  I also need a dolly for my F16 which is pusher prop but have taken u/c off for better flying effect. Peter

Glenn, Took the chance last weekend of a flight (despite the 8% diff in motor speeds).  First flight went really well - no noticeable difference (big relief).  Second flight (next day) was with colleagues P38 in fly by (nice!) - turn to port to go cross wind and half way through lost speed and kept turning (into the ground!).  Fortunately ground was very soft and nosecone was recovered fully intact but engine mount and fuz covering damaged due to sudden stop.  This is the third time it has gone in port first.  Installed new esc's recently so might be the motor so will have to invest.  It looks so good in the air I am determined to get it airborne as much as poss this year - paint job not as good as yours though - cracking! Peter

Glenn, I managed to get away with 3oz of lead and put it under the battery housing as far forward as possible.  My batt is also as far forward into the nose as possible - doesn't look that pretty close up but not noticable when flying.  I took my CoG measurements from leading edge.  I also had trouble with the cockpit - not a pretty site, but again, above 30' not noticable.  Good luck.  I need to get going with mine - one motor is pulling more revs than the other (about 8%).  Not sure a. whether it will make that much difference b. whether to invest in new motors and hope they will match or c. try adding a rudder - but that will make it more rear end heavy! Oh, the tribulations !!  I just wish it was warm enough to work in the garage.   Peter  

Picture is the only one I have in my album. See left.