Dave Hess

I'm trying to bind a V8R4-II to my Taranis Q X7S. Every video guide says select D8 mode, which is not available in the EU software. Did I waste my money somewhere or is there something I can do? If this rx doesn't work is there a similar one that will?

IMHO, on most conventional models (models with a fuselage, wings and tail), C of G is not that critical. I never even look at the plan to see where it should be. For the first flight, I check that it's somewhere around 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the front of the average wing chord, then adjust it a bit afterwards, depending on how the plane flies and what type of flying characteristics I want. I don’t use any measuring device. I just use my eyes and a rough judgement. Many of my planes have ended up with a C of G miles from the recommended position.

My favourite plane of all time was the Hots 40. Other club members fitted hot 40 motors, but I used an OS 35 FP. The lighter weight changed its flying caracteristics completely so it was more like modern light-weight 3D planes that didn't exist in the early '80s. The thick wing section helps it fly really slowly. I loved that plane and flew it more than any other. It eventually met its demise during a limbo competition. I keep meaning to build another. Plans here: https://aerofred.com/search.php?search_keywords=Hots&sessionid=qmqss1du66jh1gujtetqosrdk6 Edited By Dave Hess on 16/08/2018 10:48:22

OK, thanks guys. I managed to bend it a bit strighter. It was only the last bit of the fuselage that was bent. All I need now is my replacement transmitter to try it out. I'm a bit worried that the same will happen again because the switches are hard against the top of the case, and any crushing dring shipping will break them off again.

Posted by Dave Hess on 16/08/2018 10:13:36: Posted by Geoff Sleath on 15/08/2018 00:52:29: ... but why would you? There's zero satisfaction or challenge and, after marvelling at the technology (which is impressive), you'd never fly it again with it switched in. Geoff Because you can learn to fly with it. Surely that's's obvious. It's a beginners trainer plane. First of all, it will take off for you. Once in the air, you can practice turning. It'll keep its wings level and its nose up while you get used to orientation and steering. Whenever you get into trouble, you can let go of the transmitter, and the plane will return to straight and level. Rate of climb and dive are limited, so everything is nice and gentle while you learn to move it around the sky and eventually point the plane at the landing strip. It's the only plane I have ever flown that I would say that an einexperenced pilot could fly on his/her own. I used to train newbs to fly with and without buddy boxes. I would take off and put the plane reasonably high and then hand over control. In most cases, the plane was in a spiral dive within seconds. Next, it would start flying out of sight. None of those things can happen with the Carbon Cub. You can instantly switch between beginner, intermediate and expert mode. In expert mode, it will do low knife-edge and inverted passes over the strip. It'll roll and loop. You can do just about any aerobatic manoeuvre with it, except that it lacks power for outside loops, so tends to roll out unless you dive to gain speed first. It is much more aerobatic than any most rainers that I've tried, and I've tried a lot. In summary, it's a £230 ready to fly plane that can fly itself or become an aerobatic fun flier. Is there anything else that can do that for the price?

Duplicate post Edited By Dave Hess on 16/08/2018 10:20:35

I think I need to help a few more grannies across the road because my luck seems very down at the moment. I ordered a new Frsky X7S and a Thunder 180. The transmitter arrived with two switches broken, and now the Thunfer 180's fuselage seems to be bowed. I was measuring the wing tip to the end of the fuselage to get the wings square, but when I get the distance correct, the mouldings don't line up at the wing root, so it looks untidy. Then I looked down the fuselage and can see a marked off-set of the rudder post to one side. Here's some photos. What do you think? Should I set the wings square to the fuselage at the wing root or to the whole length, bearing in mind that the rudder will be trimmed with an off-set to compensate? Should I complain to the shop, or is that normal with these foam models? It's difficult to see in the second photo unless you put a straight edge down the fuselage.   PS. can someone tell me how to embed a photo?   Edited By Dave Hess on 15/08/2018 19:20:13 Edited By Dave Hess on 15/08/2018 19:22:03 Edited By Dave Hess on 15/08/2018 19:23:49 Edited By Dave Hess on 15/08/2018 19:25:22 Edited By Dave Hess on 15/08/2018 19:31:40

There's nothing worse than when you order something really delicate and you open the box to find that the item is wrapped in bubble-wrap and sellotaped all over so that you can't get at the item without breaking it unless you do delicate surgery with a scalpel. To anybody that's involved with packing items: You don't need to sellotape bubble-wrap. The box/bag will hold it in place!

Posted by paul devereux on 14/08/2018 02:29:54: Learning to fly a plane is like learning to ride a bike. At first it is impossible, then it is impossible to get it wrong. It depends which plane you get. Anybody can fly that Carbon Cub above. I'm not exaggerating by saying this: You can just open the throttle to watch it make a perfect take off with wings level all the time, then you can go and make a cup of tea while it flies around the sky, turning by itself whenever it gets too far away, then you come back and press the land button, and it'll fly back to the strip where it took off and land automatically. Watch the video to see what it does. A blind guy with no hands should be able to fly it as long as he can open the throttle with his mouth and bite on the land button before the battery goes flat.

Yes, I bought it new, and yes I've sent it back. I'm just saying that these switches look dodgy. I'm worried that the same will happen again. Surely other people must have broken them too. Would anybody with the same transmitter like to comment?

My Taranis Q X7S arrived today. It was pretty well packed, but when I got it out of the case, i could see that both of the front long toggle switches were broken off. AFAICS, they rest against the top of the case, so any pressure on it will cause them to snap. Has anybody else had a problem with these or was I just unlucky? I saw one review where a guy cut them down to a shorter length, but I guess that would invalidate any warranty.

As far as I can see, that screw is identical to the one in an OS 30LA.

There's a really informative review of the Carbon Cub S+ here. It demonstrates the various flying modes that I mentioned above.

Thanks guys. That's exactly the sort of info that I was hoping for.

I bought the set used on Ebay! I'll try what you suggested, then take it from there. In the meantime, I've ordered an FRsky 7S set.

I have a DX7S and AR7010 receiver with satellite. There isn't a lot of room for the installation. At first, I stuffed the satellite in front of the servos and the main receiver at the front of the compartment. A range check gave glitching at about 30 ft or less. I then put the two together at the front, which was a lot better, giving glitch-free up to about 50 feet. The first flight was OK, but I kept the plane fairly close. During the second flight, it glitched at when it was further away, but about half as far as I'd normally fly. I've read a lot of instructions on how to install these things, but there simply are not enough options regarding space to do it like suggested. Have I got the wrong system for this particular plane, or is there a solution?

It's the plan from the old Aeromedeller Plans Handbook. I built an airframe about 20 years ago, but never got as far as covering it or doing any installation apart from the OS 25 FSR motor. I now want to finish it and convert it to electric, but I don't know much about which components are available nor what I should use. Could someone advise me which motor, propeller, ESC and battery to use. The STOL mk 2 has a lot of carrying capacity, so I guess it can manage a fairly large battery, but I don't want it to fly like a brick. I would prefer performance on the side of sportier rather than sedate.

I just restarted flying after a 17 year beak. I wanted an easy to fly plane to try to check that I still had the necessary piloting skills for my other planes. I bought the Carbon Cub S+. Before flying it, I disabled the GPS and selected expert mode. It took off and tracked perfectly, so I was soon putting it through aerobatic manoeuvres as if I had never stopped flying. I started flying again because a friend wanted to do it, and he's more or less a beginner, so I thought I'd let him try it. Before I handed over the transmitter, I set it to beginner mode. I couldn't believe how easy it was to fly like that. If you let go of the controls, it flies straight and true. When you turn, it stays level whether you use the rudder or ailerons. We tried a take off in beginner mode. You only need to open the throttle and it does everything else itself. It must be the absolute perfect plane for a beginner. It also has intermediate mode, which allows a bit more control movement, but prevents it from going into a spiral dive. In summary, the three modes mean that you can get as much help as you need or fly it like an expert, so it should be able to take you all the way to a fair level of competence. I wouldn't use any of the GPS routines. They make it too complicated, and if you don't fully understand them, they'll have the plane spiralling in before you know it, like you can see on the various YouTube videos. It's very simple to disable the GPS, which you do after each time you connect a battery.