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Bonzo Moon

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Posts posted by Bonzo Moon

  1. Well here it is, my Lidl Glider RC conversion no 8, the Lidl Spitfire! Full VERY detailed building blog with parts list! Still waiting for maiden as weather is so bad, but keep watching, it won't be long, unlike the video which runs to almost 45 mins. You can jump to chapters though!
    • Like 1
  2. Versa is great, though I found difficult to get the CG in the right place, hence I added a nose to mine which worked well. Not easy to throw too unless you're good at boomerang launch (and I'm not.)   Video of the nose job, wheels I added and maiden are below!

     

     

    Did you see my Versa with a nose job and undercarriage video too?  

     

    The maiden. Prop was too big and hit the ground , but flew like a demon!

     

     

     

  3. My EDF design GETS IT'S MAIDEN! Lidl Nose, foamboard wing and 45 mm EDF

    My first attempt at EDF 'jet' design, a foamboard/Lidl nosed Vulcan finally got it's maiden! How did it go? Build blog and more details of design is linked at the end and list of parts on the video. 45mm AEORC EDF
    https://www.banggood.com/custlink/DDDhe4Gzwk

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IlZnV3Sav4&list=PLLdle7NDE_1Y_XC3kjOSIUDJcRxVrhez-&index=1

     

     

  4. 7 hours ago, SIMON CRAGG said:

    Five of us are now flying the much modified foamboard Vulcan. 

     

    70mm 12 blade EDF 4S Lipo.

     

    Mods are ongoing, but quickest so far is 91mph, the aim being to break 100mph.

     

    Watt meter spec. 77A / 1145W

     

    Weight 31.4oz

     

    A 6s version is on the horizon.

     

    We have all had tremendous fun with these models.....huge thanks to Bonzo for posting his original video!.

    Wow, 70 mm, sounds amazing.  I remember you posting before saying you guys were flying a few of them.    Any pics of the one with a 70 mm EDF please?  Like to see how that was designed.

     

     

    7 hours ago, SIMON CRAGG said:

     

     

     

  5. Ha, yes I agree not a lot of Lidl left, but the nose saves the bother and weight of building a nose and in some ways is less complicated. Plus more aerodynamic maybe. I designed it as I went along and no doubt it would have been better if I could have kept wiring out of the air duct.  I taped the servo wires to the foamboard, and tried to route with that in mind, but it was difficult to avoid as all wires and the 3 wires from the EDF have to cross the airflow at some point to get to the centre of the fusi and the rx and battery. I doubt it will affect the thrust, if I dare use that word on a baby edf! It was a design as you go job, Mk2 will be better assuming this flies well!
     
    Just under 500 gms with a 1.3 mA 3 s lipo.
    • Like 2
  6. My latest project. The Lidl/foamboard EDF Vulcan. My 1st EDF Lidl glider just had an EDF mounted on to of the fusi, this time I wanted to create something that looked like a jet! This is my 9th Lidl build and I had a spare fusi as one of the builds was a biplane! They are all on my channel. Designing was fun, especially figuring the 'engine' intake ducting. I'm pleased with the finished design. It was a long project as this time I ordered the EDF from Aliexpress and it took two months to arrive. I've linked the Aeorc 45mm EDF at Banggood, should be quicker delivery. Around the £15 - £20 mark, depending what deal is on!  No maiden yet as weather is awful!   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTjSyig2jIE&list=PLLdle7NDE_1Y_XC3kjOSIUDJcRxVrhez-&index=1 No maiden yet as weather is awful!

  7. 23 minutes ago, John T said:

    Nice job Bonzo.

    A few years ago I did a similar conversion using a cheap 50mm EDF unit from Hobby King.  To keep the ESC away from the Rx and to keep it cool I mounted it on top of the fuselage - not as neat as yours though.

    I'm guessing that EDF efficiency has improved since then.  Although mine flies ok it's certainly got no where near the power you would think from the noise it makes! It also goes through an 850mAh 3s battery in less than 3 minutes.

    If I made another one I think I'd remove the dihedral though, as the roll rate is a little on slow side.

     

     

     

    Yes, they suck the battery!  And good idea to mount ESC on the outside. I considered it but couldn't think of an easy, tidy way to do it. Yours is in a good position there.

     

    I didn't try a roll and didn't try it at high rates, but was thinking last night of taking out the dihedral to make it roll better. As you say, dihedral isn't good for rolling.  The dihedral did make it very easy to fly though, it flies itself.

    I think at half throttle with a bit of gliding or soaring flight time might be near 10 mins.  I haven't tried it with the 800 mA 3s yet. As I said test flight was with just a 480 mA 3s. It got very warm.

    My first Lidl was a yellow one as in the picture. That looks pretty tidy to me!

     

  8. 10 hours ago, SIMON CRAGG said:

    Well done Bonzo. Oddly enough have just put a 70mm EDF in the Vulcan you shared with me some time ago. 4s power!!

    Great idea!  Funnily enough I'm considering doing the same, either with the Vulcan or with my foamboard F22. I'm still trying to figure out the design.

    I want to make it simpler and lighter than that Vulcan.

    Or I might do it with my Lidl nose Vulcan.

     

    Any chance you could post a pic or video of your Vulcan job please?

    This was my redesign of the Flight Test f22. It's less heavy has a more simple nose end.  It flies well but don't think I have video of the maiden.

     

     

     

  9. 13 hours ago, James Humphreys 1 said:

    My bixler flew fine straight out the box no nose weight etc for months, Here's the rub though while doing a club funfly she started to porpoise and turn where before she'd glide hands off, when checked over by several people and flown by them aswell weight had to be added to the wing and to the nose. WEIRD 

    Mmmm, that is weird, maybe the fusi developed a bend. Distorted in sunshine or something?  Mine didn't come ready to fly , I even had to glue the two fusi halves together and it was too easy to build in a bend while doing so. The incidence of the tail was out which I think contributed to my problems. Got it sorted in the end though and it flies well.

    • Like 1
  10. Hi Phillip,  

     

    Sorry to hear that!  

     

    On Wednesday I finally managed to get mine flying really well.  I had changed to angle of incidence on the tail after that flight, as I think I built in a bend when glueing the two fusi halves together, but it was still porpoising at times. I'd also tried more nose weight. 

     

    The last thing I tried was a little down trim on both ailerons. Bit of an experiment really to try and change AoI a bit more. Anyhow, Wednesday it flew really well , best at half throttle. It is a bit overpowered with the motor prop I had on. I changed to a smaller prop too.  It was floating around and dead easy to fly. Full chat it looped easily .

     

    Re the ESC overheat, I have seen people mount the esc on the outside of the fusi in the airflow. Or as you say, fit a scoop. White plastic teaspoons cut off make a good scoop!

     

     

  11. Well I got it flying in the end after a long afternoon of trimming and experimenting and in the end it became obvious that it wasn't a CoG issue as had been suggested, and  I didn't need the 60 gms of lead on the nose.  My cut and shut to change tail incidence pretty much solved the problem. But also,  having used a different motor and prop to that in the RTF I concluded it was overpowered and  the bad incidence was what caused it to climb so hard even when on reduced power or trying to glide in to land.  Now with the incidence changed a bit it's quite happy at half throttle, and I've changed the prop from the 5045  3 blade  to a 6 x 4 which is the size Bixler use, it might help to depower it a bit. 
    Other observations. It's very easy to build twists and bends into the fusi if the you are putting together the ARTF version. But my cut and shut worked ok.  I have found that instead of putting carbon into the tail to stiffen it, tape is just as effective.  
      
    All in all a good learning experience.  And I know I need to improve my throw.

     

  12. 1 hour ago, Engine Doctor said:

    Any foam model especially those with long thin fuselage like the bixler are flexible. They often bend when flying at speed and can ho out of control. I test flew a model for a club mate of similar size and configuration to a bixler made for EDF power unit . It had an upgraded EDF fitted so was considerably more powerful than intended. Flight started fine but as speed built up it became uncontrollable.  As rhe speed drop control was regained and the model was landed. On inspection all seemed OK but the fuselage between the wings and tail plane was found to flex enough to cause the problem. Four lengths of carbon fibre strip 1mm x 3mm were inserted , one at the top and  bottom and one either side. Simply make a slit with a scalpel and push the strip insnd run thin cyano along it. Problem sorted . The airframe can now   handle the stresses put on it in flight.

    This was also a problem for the mk1 HobbyKing Venom that had flexible booms . The  addition of carbon strip transforms the airframe. 

    Worth checking out and wont cost a lot to fix.

     

    Yes, thanks.   I had Googled the model before buying and I knew some Bixler builders had done that.   I considered it and  I've done it on some of my Lidl glider conversions, but I didn't really want to add that much extra weight to the tail.  I'll re-consider it now!

  13. It was very well packaged. More likely it happened, (perhaps?) when I very carefully glued the two halves of the fusi together. I used Uhu Por which gave much more assembly time than hot glue,  but I started from the nose when putting the halves together.  It's logical, start at the big end I thought. Foam is flexible and stretchable. It's 35 inches long and when I got to the tail the end it was slightly out. Only a couple of mm but it did annoy me TBH but there's no way you'd pull it apart again without wrecking it to correct it. You get one hit to get it right. Maybe that distorted it?  Who knows.  If there was a next time completing the ARTF  I'd probably start in the middle putting the halves together. 

     

    And I will post my flight attempts today, there were a lot before I got it flying ok, and my conclusions video tomorrow if I get a chance to edit it. I'll keep you in suspense! But it was not a CoG problem! 

  14. Thanks for the helpful comments Matty.

     

    I did get it flying well this afternoon and I will post a full account in a day or two.  I did it step by step, and as you say, including checking the glide .  I usually give my own design models a lob first to see how they glide before I ever try a power fly, though for some reason as this was a kit I wrongly assumed it'd be OK! 

     

    For those people who said 'nothing wrong with it, you're just a rubbish RC pilot' , here's a comment on my YT channel today about the Bixler. 

     

    'check the incidence angle of the horizontal stab... a dude on my club had that problem with this same aircraft and had to modify the tail's angle.'

     

    Which is exactly what I did! 

     

    They don't always fly great straight out of the box!

     

    Though I have figured what I think was another issue.

     

    • Confused 1
  15. The only other consideration is the ESC is too close to the RX and caused interference?   I'll add a ferrite ring on the BEC feed.  It's tidy with the ESC  inside but I see Andrew Newton has his outside on his Bixler. Better cooling that way too. Maybe I need to do some butchering which is a shame as it's a nice looking model. 

     

    Just checked I had already put on a ferrite ring! 

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