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James Hammond - Aeroic

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About James Hammond - Aeroic

  • Birthday 11/05/1952

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  1. Hi Guys, you might not believe this but we finally have a website: www.aeroiccomposites.com Lots of stuff up there - take a look if you have time. Cheers, Doc.
  2. Hi Lads, Normally I don't get into this type of witch hunt because I really cannot understand why people would want to waste their time on such things. I don't know about the rest of you but I fly my toys to have FUN and not to make unqualified comments about other people's choices. But anyway, lets take a look: Manufacture: YES Peter did have some problems with his Redshift. Its was one of the first to be produced and one of the first batch to leave the factory. Honestly I thank hi for being so brave as to illustrate the problems he had and to say how he fixed them. It was big help to me at least. I listen to people like Peter and I take action to cure the problem and to make sure they never happen again. Because of this simple policy I fin that I really don't have occasion to listen that often at all. Design: This is NOT a "me too" - I do this for a living and on projects far more advanced than these model planes. The time has come for F3f to go forward, to make progress and for different designs to emerge. I'm not saying that the design is the "be all and end all" - but it might be one step forward. Flying: That much is simple - its fast, its easy to fly and its easy to land. it will fly as fast as the conditions and the skill of the pilot will allow. Competition: Redshift has not been flown in many competitions let alone Leagues. It's a new model on the competition scene. But it does show promise and did the get the fastest time at one of the Eurotour events in the face of some stiff European/UK opposition. In subsequent outings it has not finished at the bottom of the list either. Hopefully the development programme will lead to more improvements. General: As I have said, I listen to you guys. I constantly try to improve what I offer, not only in model performance but also I what you get for your hard earned cash. Things like the single carbon wings that are standard on ALL of my models, and and the included wiring harness that is standard this year - also I hope to include wing bags etc form mid year too. Cost: I try to keep costs down and charge what I think are realistic prices for my models. As you well know there are many who don't. So there we go. Thanks again to Peter for making is findings public. James Hammond.
  3. Hi Guys, to be honest if this joint is going to let go, then it's going to let go. If it did let go then it probably was not done properly in the first place, as there is nothing in normal use strong enough to jerk or shake it loose. If properly bonded, then there is simply not enough mass to provide the kinetic energy needed to cause a detachment. I use epoxy only too, by the way, but while it's still soft I shrink the tubing on - which no doubt speeds up the curing process. The heat shrink is just another layer of insurance - I hope. Scrupulously clean parts all roughened and cleaned that one last time with acetone or the like and a really good 24 hour epoxy should do the job, heat shrink or no. I just like that last feeling of finishing that heat shrink gives, but each to his own. Cheers, Doc J.
  4. HI Peter - if you do unfortunately develop a kink in the teflon outer tubes - just use a couple of drops of the teflon bike chain lube you can get from bike shops. This stuff usually makes almost anything work much more freely. By the way it works on almost any stiff linkage that you want to keep slop-free but still easy to move. Good ones are: Muc-off, Dupont chain saver, or Finish Line Dry - they are all are dry after the carrier liquid evaporates. Comment: On these forums all are entitled to their opinions and the right to express them - this is how we learn and exchange information. But I sometimes think a few people express opinions, mainly of a negative nature, without having actually made or flown the models that they talk about. As you are one who actually DOES know what he's talking about, and HAVE made and flown the modes in question, thanks for the compliments about the flying! Cheers, Doc.
  5. Pete - this is a serious mistake by my staff. I apologise humbly for this, but I'm happy you brought it to light before flying. Please check the other side too because if its like this one side, then the other side is likely to be the same bugger it! The end should be bent at 90 degrees and glued into the elevator as well as along the hinge line. Please email me if you need help on this. Again my apologies - now I am going to the shop to boot someone's glutei!!!! (Or words to that effect) Yaaahhh!
  6. Hi Peter, no defence necessary here. But let's look. Expense - I did not realise that the Redshift was so expensive when compared to other F3f models. Is that true? Considering that it uses UHM carbon throughout and already has kevlar in the nose and beyond the wing stubs, plus it comes with a pretty good set of accessories, including servo frames and now including a full wiring harness by the way. I think compared to many others on the market its pretty reasonably priced. Assembly: I have never found a plane yet that you could just screw in the servos - especially in the wings. The parts that have to be fitted are done that way for a good reason - not everyone wants to use the same servos, or layout or even parts. Some like different servo and receiver positions, some like round ballast tubes, some like wall Lipo batteries etc etc so its wise for a manufacturer to allow the buyer to have some choice even if it does mean a bit of assembly work - but its work that is well within the scope of most people who are advanced enough to fly this type of models anyway. I would have thought that most models need to have the control rods made up and the inner rods ends added. I'm now an old Phart and I come from a time where there were no mouldies, and not even any kits. You HAD to design and you HAD to make your models from a pile of materials. I was good at it! Reinforcements: Some people take quite a delight in a brand new shiny model and really want to keep it that way as long as possible. Frankly, as built the Redshift does not need any extra reinforcement but as we have seen its quite possible to put it in. One was crashed into some trees quite violently during the recent world championships and only suffered a small crease in one tailplane - which amazed everyone, and as commented at the time, this was testimony to its good strong construction. But as I said, at least here the owner DOES have a choice. Model choice: Basically you pays your money and takes your choice. I don't normally buy cheap models or second hand models because I don't want cheap model or second hand performance. My flying is far too important to to me to do that, though I do sympathise with those who's budget may not extend to new models. Personally I want everything I do to be the best I can make it and I'm not really happy to make compromises. Having said that, if you are so inclined, and If you are lucky enough to find a really good second hand F3f plane for three hundred quid, all I can say is WELL DONE! Last but not least chaps, please always, always, always, remember that we do this for fun. It's not who is afraid of who, who is better than who, or wiser, or any other kind of peeing contest. Let's give good advice, lots of encouragement, offer help, and continue to have the most fun we can have. Cheers, Doc James Hammond, Taipei, November 2nd 2018
  7. Hi Peter - if the instructions mention bottom access ballast tube install then you have the correct ones.
  8. Hi Peter, some more on the ballast tube for the Redshift. What I do now is to put the ballast tube in with the opening at the BOTTOM of the fuselage - but I'm not sure which version of the instructions you have. I make up the tube first, work out where the opening should be in the bottom of the fuse, then make a smaller opening so I can see what's going on. Then I splooge the ballast tube itself in. When its cured, I clean up all the edges, sand off the extra splooge and make sure the slugs can go in and out easily. This way the ballast is easier to access, will not interfere with the control rods, and is given another level of security by being covered with the nose cone.
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