James Hammond - Aeroic

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Dear admins - if I have violated any policy here I aplogise. This post was simply to let anybody intertested know that there is a lot of information available on building the Forza - that and only that. In no way was it intended to be an advertisement. Thanks for your indulgence on this. I will try to be more careful next time!🤔 Meanwhile there are a lot of Forza builds going on at this moment. 4 models are finished this month, and at least 9 counting USA and Europe are in the build phase, and as has been pointed out - although better than no manual at all, my instructions are really meant for very experienced builders, used to reading between the lines. 😳I tend to forget that not everyone is so experienced, and this is why I thought it might be good to make a new source of very comprehensive information available. Again my apologies for any infingement. Cheers, Doc.

Thanks, Benny. I think a lot of people know of Andy Whitehead's prowess when it comes to building balsa models. Using modern manufacture methods and design, he's single-handedly taken these skills to a whole new level. Note that ALL of the critcal assemblies in this model are jig-built, and the jigs come with the Kits. Some more pictures of the Aria progress from yesterday's efforts at AWD. Watch this space! Doc.

Andy has been busy trial building the Aria VTPR empennage, testing the cuts and parts, finish and fits as he always does. To elaborate, the outline shapes and the aerodynamics for this little whizzer came from me, and Andy, using his exceptional construction design and manufacturing skills is rapidly turning it into a really fantastic balsa model. We are both enjoying the cooperation immensely and I am happy to say that this is only one of several models that will be coming from AWD using this synergy. As you can see from the pics the tail fin and AMT come with a building and sanding jig as do all the alignment-critical parts of the model and I am sure that this represents a level of attention to detail hitherto unseen on a balsa model kit. Even an 'average' builder using the construction aids supplied can turn his build into an exhibition-level model. Here you can see the AWD Madstab assembly which is printed - like many other difficult to manage parts on this model. This is truly one of the best Madstab mechanisms that I have personally seen. More pictures and information here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/566286474295515 Andy is now laser cutting a rib set and the other parts for the wings, which will be next on the agenda - watch this space. Its fun to be playing with balsa again - its been a long time. Cheers, Doc.

Its probably a bit late for these builds, but the latest issue of Aufwind has a great review of the E-Forza by Markus Thewes - very detailed indeed, and in the next issue Markus will review the slope version. Of course there is also my own Gliding and Design column inside. 😇 Cheers, Doc.

Steve - if you are set on glue, some advice: Back in the day we used to use silicon rubber fishtank caulk to do the job. It actually sets frmly but will provide a tiny bit of 'give' in a "firm arrival"😝 and also the servo can be 'manoeuvred' for quite some time before the caulk sets. If you want to use a harder glue, then 5-minute epoxy is horrible stuff but it works. With the 5-minutes stuff It's a good idea to wrap a couple of layers of masking tape around the servo first to allow it to be firmly in place but possible to remove for replacement or repair etc. Cheers, Doc.

Hey Rod - I guess after over ten years the Minivec is in my past life - but I'm really happy you are still enjoying the old lady. Cheers, Doc.

Hey Steve. Background: The Forza was designed to be a smallish allrounder -slope or electric - and the design was gathered from all the models I had designed at that size up until then - until the Toccata came along. Its fast and agile but very well behaved, especially on landing. All in all I think its a lot of fun, and its is the favorite model for many people. It will do what you tell it to, but will not set you back an arm and a leg. They are aso pretty durable which helps for those unplanned arrivals! Of course it comes with full tech backup - from me. Cheers, Doc.

Hey chaps. We have just got the new positives CNC machined for the G-Spada fuse - to fix a small moulding problem but no change to the design, and the completely new E-Spada. Note the E-Spada fuselage is not a re-vamped glider fuse. Its a completely resdeigned unit and can hold very large batteries and hot motors. These masters are using a new compound that is very tough, but machines easily and polishes very fast as well. This is not the final polish - we'll do that at the factory. The E-Spada will be available from Neil at Hyperfligt and from CRG in Germany. Ceers, Doc.

Ace balsa guru Andy Whitehead (Angel Wing Designs) is getting along well with the Aria VTPR model. The new laser machine is working hard, and Andy is doing trial assemblies and tweaking for super-precision cuts. Here we see the cockpit canopy vacuum form mould, a rudder and the two tailplane halves with Andy's own design Madstab actuator - which really works well. Its coming soon! Cheers, Doc.

Hi Guys, you might not believe this but we finally have a website: www.aeroiccomposites.com Lots of stuff up there - take a look if you have time. Cheers, Doc.

Hi Lads, Normally I don't get into this type of witch hunt because I really cannot understand why people would want to waste their time on such things. I don't know about the rest of you but I fly my toys to have FUN and not to make unqualified comments about other people's choices. But anyway, lets take a look: Manufacture: YES Peter did have some problems with his Redshift. Its was one of the first to be produced and one of the first batch to leave the factory. Honestly I thank hi for being so brave as to illustrate the problems he had and to say how he fixed them. It was big help to me at least. I listen to people like Peter and I take action to cure the problem and to make sure they never happen again. Because of this simple policy I fin that I really don't have occasion to listen that often at all. Design: This is NOT a "me too" - I do this for a living and on projects far more advanced than these model planes. The time has come for F3f to go forward, to make progress and for different designs to emerge. I'm not saying that the design is the "be all and end all" - but it might be one step forward. Flying: That much is simple - its fast, its easy to fly and its easy to land. it will fly as fast as the conditions and the skill of the pilot will allow. Competition: Redshift has not been flown in many competitions let alone Leagues. It's a new model on the competition scene. But it does show promise and did the get the fastest time at one of the Eurotour events in the face of some stiff European/UK opposition. In subsequent outings it has not finished at the bottom of the list either. Hopefully the development programme will lead to more improvements. General: As I have said, I listen to you guys. I constantly try to improve what I offer, not only in model performance but also I what you get for your hard earned cash. Things like the single carbon wings that are standard on ALL of my models, and and the included wiring harness that is standard this year - also I hope to include wing bags etc form mid year too. Cost: I try to keep costs down and charge what I think are realistic prices for my models. As you well know there are many who don't. So there we go. Thanks again to Peter for making is findings public. James Hammond.

Hi Guys, to be honest if this joint is going to let go, then it's going to let go. If it did let go then it probably was not done properly in the first place, as there is nothing in normal use strong enough to jerk or shake it loose. If properly bonded, then there is simply not enough mass to provide the kinetic energy needed to cause a detachment. I use epoxy only too, by the way, but while it's still soft I shrink the tubing on - which no doubt speeds up the curing process. The heat shrink is just another layer of insurance - I hope. Scrupulously clean parts all roughened and cleaned that one last time with acetone or the like and a really good 24 hour epoxy should do the job, heat shrink or no. I just like that last feeling of finishing that heat shrink gives, but each to his own. Cheers, Doc J.

HI Peter - if you do unfortunately develop a kink in the teflon outer tubes - just use a couple of drops of the teflon bike chain lube you can get from bike shops. This stuff usually makes almost anything work much more freely. By the way it works on almost any stiff linkage that you want to keep slop-free but still easy to move. Good ones are: Muc-off, Dupont chain saver, or Finish Line Dry - they are all are dry after the carrier liquid evaporates. Comment: On these forums all are entitled to their opinions and the right to express them - this is how we learn and exchange information. But I sometimes think a few people express opinions, mainly of a negative nature, without having actually made or flown the models that they talk about. As you are one who actually DOES know what he's talking about, and HAVE made and flown the modes in question, thanks for the compliments about the flying! Cheers, Doc.

Pete - this is a serious mistake by my staff. I apologise humbly for this, but I'm happy you brought it to light before flying. Please check the other side too because if its like this one side, then the other side is likely to be the same bugger it! The end should be bent at 90 degrees and glued into the elevator as well as along the hinge line. Please email me if you need help on this. Again my apologies - now I am going to the shop to boot someone's glutei!!!! (Or words to that effect) Yaaahhh!