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Mitchell Howard
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Posts posted by Mitchell Howard
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I can't find my old post on this, but I had the AT10ii as my first Tx. It is lightweight, cost effective and I never had reliability issues, great for simple models.
But... I started to get the urge for simple additional functions like flaps, and the menu and programming system is horrible. Broken English, menu titles that don't make sense, no userbase to get support from, manuals in Chinglish. I had a hard time setting rates and expo, my memory fails me, but it was difficult to separate out control surfaces onto different switches. I had to set pos and neg trav/expo independently, there was no mirroring. I also had issues where setting flaps and ailerons interfered with one another and I had to go into completely abstract menus to get it to separate. Not fun. Tens of hours I won't get back.
They've also got telemetry which I specifically wanted, but the paperwork said it could call out voltage - it can't, it can only beep.
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3 minutes ago, Bill Burrows said:
I have a recently purchased Ruckus and find that the steel weights appear to be glued in with a polyurethane type adhesive. Any suggestions on how to get them out with minimal damge to the surrounding foam? They seriously compromise the size of battery and hence flight times.
Hi Bill - the forumites helped me above in this thread somewhere but the best thing to do is get a long thin knife, the snap-off blade hobby type and slice out the weights. I put a block of balsa back in to stiffen the area up again without adding the weight.
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread - did you ever find anywhere locally?
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Is the NX8's WiFi 2.4GHz only or does it also include 5GHz - our home router (nothing special, 6yr old Virgin Media item) sends out two networks, a 2.4GHz one and a 5GHz one. I name my networks by the frequency, so I can see, but if you've never done that, they could look very similar. If the NX8 can only see one or the other, or you're used to connecting to a particular one with one password, then perhaps you're indeed giving it the wrong password. Take a look at the back of the router.
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Such a shame I've nowhere local to fly indoors, really want to have a go. Got a Funnycub ready to go that's had some outdoors flights.
East midlands, Coalville, if anybody's got any suggestions.
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My charger is an Etronix model, but it has a dedicated balance mode on top of your usual charge, store, discharge settings. Good for running quickly to storage or to full charge, then using the low current balance mode to set it right when generally at the overall voltage you want it at.
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On 07/03/2012 at 01:09, BB said:
Lovely plane. Beef up any joints you can find on bare wood. It'l last longer.
Standard servos will be more than adequate. Double check control surfaces -
give them a good tug, then add CA if necessary to strengthen. If flying off a
grass strip, go 'tail dragger'. 'Cause the nose will dig in and bend
(use a stock wire U/C).
Think they come with a 6oz tank. Change to an eight if you can. Good
for a 20 -30 min flight at 1/3 - 1/2 throttle.
Use decent batteries 4.8v 2600 mah, for long training flights.
Will do all the basics and aerobatic capable.
Great little frame .
BB
Edited By BB on 07/03/2012 01:51:32
If you choose to go tail dragger, be careful because the instructions just take you straight into trike and don't give you any options. If you were to build it in ignorance you'd have the rudder glued in before you could fit the tail wheel wire.
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It's important to remember there are bricks and mortar UK-based shops trading on eBay.
They aren't selling knock-off goods on eBay whilst simultaneously selling official stuff in store or on their own website.
Always check the seller, eBay isn't a big bad wild place, it's highly convenient when used properly.
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Can't recommend anything personally, but the US-based importer/distributor Twisted Hobbies has a very good selection all of which are available in the UK.
The brands that are popular seem to be Czech, RC Factory and Hacker. Multiplex must have something.
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From what I read, there's supposed to be something 'special' about the Multiplex Elapor foam. Look and feel, anecdotal evidence that it's just nicer stuff, the premium end of foamies. Added to that, the Multiplex models are given a lot of credit for flying characteristics.
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58 minutes ago, Tosh McCaber said:
Hmm- quite a lot of money for a cut out sheet of Depron, which can only fly on no wind days!
Sounds like you've got a business idea, just cut out those sheets of Depron and you're sorted Tosh!
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On 12/10/2021 at 18:34, Frank Skilbeck said:
Yep, got one, great fun on calm days, would need a decent sized hall to fly indoors.
Typical MPX quality and goes together well, you can (well I did) get a slight anhedral on the main wing, but it doesn't affect the flying qualities.
Hi Frank - did you use the recommended adhesives? Instructions call for MPX852727 and MPX852728. I can only buy MPX852727 at a reasonable price in the UK.
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Has anybody ever built or flown one of these before? What did you think?
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53 minutes ago, Diamond Geezer said:
Hi guys
pretty new to leccy how many amps should I charge a 14.8v 4000 mah battery and how quick can I charge it
I've got nothing but 4S 3700s. Always charge at 1C, 3.7A. From storage 3.85V/cell, we're talking 30mins to get up to 4.2V/cell. Always charged on a balance lead.
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another forum member recommended modelfixings.co.uk. Nottingham based and whilst the website is clunky, you can expect reasonable shipping costs and quick dispatch.
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A clubmate raves about his Spektrum smart chargers. Says he just connects them and it "knows what to do". A brief Google shows they support LiFe, but you'd have to check how it operates as to whether it's simple enough.
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I'm sure my chargers do it - Etronix Powerpal Touch.
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4 minutes ago, Nigel R said:
The AR620 and AR410 are what you want for sport flying.
Telemetry, DX7, DX8, TM1100 are old transmitters and telemetry modules with limited compatibility to newer stuff. Otherwise most everything is compatible with most everything else. The reason lots of sensors are "not compatible" with some receivers is usually because the receiver just flat out doesn't have a socket for it.
I've seen a ~£53 lump, the AR6610T - it has a port on called 'Volt' which I gather is designed to take a direct connection to the flight-pack. I've also seen what looks like a remove voltage 'PCB' that looks like it might plug in to the 'volt' port and act as an intermediary, but I can't tell really. I think I might have to pick a receiver manual and see what it expects to be connected and how. I was hoping a balance connector could go on the LiPo and wire the two outer wires straight to the 'Volt' port.
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1 hour ago, Romeo Whisky said:
A newbie at out club has the NX6 and it seems fine in terms of its functionality, but to be honest I much prefer my (old) Spektrum DX9. Reasons (compared to my DX9):- the voice system is barely audible even at full volume, the screen is very hard to read in daylight (and changing the colours doesn't help). Also I don't like the On/Off switch mechanism. There appears to be also some issue with them refusing to charge (which has been raised on some forums) and my clubmate has had this issue which requires disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it after a short pause. I would certainly not recommend any of the DX's suffixed with an "e" as they leave out some of the most desirable features. I believe the DX9 is still available and if my current one packed up that's what I would go for.
As far as receivers go, there are Lemon DSMX-compatible receivers both with and without telemetry which are excellent and much less expensive for similar features. They do compatible stabilised receivers too.
Hi RW - I wonder what software version the NX6 is on, and I wonder what the volume setting is? I'm sure I've read on the RCG forum that the NX speaker is improved over DX, a post by the lead developer no less.
47 minutes ago, Frank Skilbeck said:Mitchell, why do you say the Radiolink is user unfriendly? is it the programming?
If you are looking at the NX10 the maybe the Futaba 10J is another option, or the Jeti DS12 which is not a whole lot more and you can easily add the future features you'd like, and the telemetry is simple and first rate (and I'm a Multiplex user ? )
To me at least, the UI is clumsy and unintuitive - I've had 3 instances I can readily recall that have left me feeling like something's wrong/broken/missing;
- Alarms are not settable/distinguishable from one another - I can't tell if there's a timer gone off, the Tx voltage low, RSSI warning, flight pack voltage low. It's frustrating, particularly as the manual says customisable alarms are settable. I've actually contacted the factory in China and they've ignored that part of the message. I'm looking for audible alerts for things like flaps too which it really can't do. I understand that Futaba only give you audible alerts on the much more expensive sets.
- When setting up flaperons, I could setup and trim the ailerons without flaps engaged (as you would), but upon turning flaperons on, both the end point and neutral position of both ailerons changes. There was also a buried setting that needed to be activated (which I still don't understand) that asks you to choose ch5+6 or ch6+7. I chose 5+6, but I use 1 and 5 for two-servo wing. Very odd. There are phrases in the manual like, "it is easier to use differential for flaperons, instead of the flaperon setting" (I paraphrase). When I did reach a passable solution, the flaps couldn't be brought up to 0deg to start applying travel in the field. They were stuck at ~10% travel. There's nowhere that lets you change the deployment speed of the flaps. I recall but can't explain clearly a submenu that allowed me to adjust aileron endpoints, but wouldn't let me adjust both servos, it was like only one was there. Even thought it's now clumsily implemented, I don't fancy undoing the hours of work it took to get it into this usable condition, just to try again. I guess I could start a new model, but why bother when there's easier solutions out there with added benefits.
- When setting DR/expo, you have to set values for each side of the surface manually, and for each of the rates. An example, say I've got a new model and I have a triple rate switch. I have 100%, 75% and 50% rates. To set those, I have to wind the scroll wheel to 75%, then nudge the stick left or right to have the other side selected, then roll to 75% on that. Then repeat for the 50%. Then repeat again for neg expo.
I'm going to go Spektrum, I want that userbase both at the club and online, the 2nd and 3rd party support, the BNF models from 1st and 3rd parties, plus the used market for DSMX receivers and seemingly high quality Orange, Lemon and FrSky receivers. A minor point, but one that affects my enjoyment is the feeling of holding something more substantial/well-made.
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19 hours ago, Jeffrey Cottrell 2 said:
Congrats on the maiden. Good to hear it went well.
So, questions:
Sad to say the story with the clevises is too common. I generally throw them away before I even start.
Can't confirm how the rods are threaded, Kim may well be right on that one.
For some time now I have been using clevises from Modelfixings, here. Found them to be of excellent quality and still close with a snap, even after being opened a few times.
These are designed to self thread on to a 2mm thread, so I'm not too sure how secure they would be on your current rods.
I guess you want to keep the model in one piece, so can I suggest what I do now as a matter of course.
Along with the clevises, Modelfixings also sell studding (threaded rod) in 2mm here. I always keep some of this handy and make up my own bespoke rods.
Just need cutting to length and a clevis on each end.
If you wanted to go 'belt and braces' 2mm is also the thread for metal clevises like these. My Ruckus has plastic ones and they'll do fine.
Props
Probably a good guess that the bendy props are causing the rasping noise. Maybe a stiffer one might help. APC would be first choice, but Hobbyking do a range of APC lookalikes, called 'Bone' props and they are surprisingly good, here. Dirt cheap too.
Not sure what size you are using, but I have 10 x 5 on mine. Performs very well indeed.
I have a 40mm all alloy spinner on mine. Can't remember where I got it from, but it does have a collet adaptor built in to the backplate. That ain't going to run out of true. If you're interested, I could probably find who sells them.
Radio
Sorry, can't help with the flap set up, but probably asking the question in the Radio section on this forum, might get you some help.
Good luck
Jeff
P.S. 40mm might seem a bit small for the spinner, but it doesn't look out of place and leaves an open ring for cooling air to get in to the motor.
JThanks Jeff - I see your photo is of the aileron linkage - my splitting clevis was on the elevator - the studding would need to be over 500mm and it looks like this supplier only does 300mm lengths. Do you know of alternatives? I've not looked yet myself but a recommendation is always good.
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20 hours ago, Kim Taylor said:
Hi Mitchell
I haven't got a Ruckus, but I believe that the Riot has identical bits & bobs, so to answer your questions:
1. The 'threads' on the control rods aren't a conventional thread at all (unless changed recently) they're more like a self tapping or Archimedes screw.
I can only suggest either taking the whole shooting match to your lms (if you have one) and match something up. Or someone may have already done this and be able to tell you what fits, or as a last resort, buy some from Century UK, who sell them as a spare part.
2. See 3. Assuming that you've already balanced the prop??
3. Yes, the spinner is horrid. Replace with something better and hopefully your rasping noise will magically disappear.
4. I'd be surprised if you can't do what you're asking with the AT10, but I can't offer any advise on set up - I did the same on my Riot using my Spektrum DX8g2 and it was a fiddle, but I got there in the end. Never use it, though!!
hth (a bit)
Kim
eta On my Riot, I'm using a c of g well behind the 'book' setting, which (with care) will allow you to slow the model down a bit more compared to a more nose heavy one. I don't know where you are with your c of g but I'd definitely be working at the back of the recommended range and beyond (only if you're comfortable, obvs, don't want to get the blame for you breaking it!!)
Hi Kim - we lost our LMS this Christmas, was a shame as I was just getting into the hobby. I've ordered an APC 11*5.5 and a JP spinner with ally backplate. It's the spinner with metal adapter bushes so hopefully straight on and job's a good'un. You're not wrong about the spinner - I thought the cheap one that came with my Seagull Boomerang was iffy, this is worse. The Radiolink set is a good start, but there's no userbase for support and the written manual whilst looking thorough on the surface never quite explains how you're supposed to do what you need to.
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I'm in the market for a move away from my user unfriendly Radiolink AT10ii, and what seems like perhaps 65-75% of members at my club are flying Spektrum. I see the NX series, announced late last year and shipping from March this year are the replacements for the DX line (apart from DX6e and DX8e, I think also DX18?). Obviously, those currently being used aren't going to fall over or stop being supported repair-wise, but I do read elsewhere that feature developments will stop and only proceed on NX. It seems there's a new processor in the NX that allows Spektrum to continue developing features that the gen 2 radios don't have the grunt to support.
Has anyone bought one of these yet? I'm struggling with the necessity of the 10-channel NX10 vs 8-channel NX8, the myriad Spektrum marketing terms (AS3X, SAFE, SMART) and how to determine compatibility on the Telemetry side of things. The smart stuff looks like it's an expensive way to do things that are often already available, and sometimes just plain pointless. Receivers are another minefield. I think the AR6610T is the most economical way to fly standard club models, but I can't be certain. The comparison sheets make my brain hurt!
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Maidened yesterday! Within about 30s of being up with it in 10mph wind, I had a big smile on my face. First low winger for me, having only flown trainer and a larger STOL model - this feels connected and direct in a way the others don't. The CG was spot on as per the manual with the weights removed (filled with balsa) and the 3700 4S putting some weight back in. It comes in quickly (for me) but I got the hang of after the high lift models I've been flying. It induced enough confidence to do my first stall turns, and got some loops and rolls in for good measure!
Now to set about making some minor mods;
- The clevises are crap and actually arrived with some split that I had to replace. Are these threads standard? How and what should I replace them with?
- There is a raspy noise occasionally under high throttle - I notice the Gemfan prop is softer than the usual APC, could it be this running on the edge of its rev limit?
- The prop spinner is out of balance, I think I'll lay my hands on one of those vented ones or just one with an ally backplate with interchangeable bushes.
- Get flaperons set up to cut takeoff/landing speed. I already attempted this on my Radiolink AT10ii set. Setting trims was fine, but turning flaperons on and trying to set limits for travel messes up the trim and sometimes the direction of normal aileron operation. I daren't attempt to mix-in elevator. I think the end of the road for this radio is nigh.
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16 hours ago, Cuban8 said:
Good to hear that a youngster is enjoying the delights of R/C flying. Keeping their interest over the longer term I believe is the difficult problem facing the hobby. My concern is that young newcomers may well view flying a model - any model or 'flying instrument' as merely an extension of their Playstation or other games machine where tremendous hand/eye coordination is learned. The question being is there enough interest in flying something over a field as compared to the stimulation of high energy video games and will have them coming back for more in the cold/wet/windy/muddy conditions that we tend to accept. Would even precision aerobatics be enough of a challenge ? I honestly don't think that they get the magic of the hobby that captured those of us of a previous generation and a life long interest for many it turned into.
I was watching my eight years old grandson playing a mega fast Space Invaders type game a day or two ago and was amazed at the dexterity and speed of his thumbs on the controls - maybe five or six hits per second? I had a go and failed immediately, my thumbs, eyes and brain were simply not connected as needed! He had ten minutes of that and moved on to another equally fast shooting type game that I was equally hopeless at. Personally, I couldn't see the attraction at the stress and exertion but that is just what is attractive to gamers as far as I can see and what brings them back for more and what sells the games.
My guess is that many modern kids have none of the air mindedness of past generations, the dream of your own Sptfire or whatever to emulate your Battle of Britain heroes seen the comics of the 50s & 60s is no longer relevent and I suspect would even be discouraged in some quarters.
If you could get a brick to fly under R/C control and hand it to most kids for a thrash around it would be just as exciting for them at least for a while......perhaps that's why drones are so popular? (only kidding, I think).
I know these PlayStation comparisons are popular, but I have to say as a relatively young starter (mid-30s) the pull of this hobby isn't in an alternative to the PlayStation. I've never dreamt of 'my own spitfire' because that's an unlikely prospect and as the war fades even further into the distance I think people will become less interested in them. I also can't ascribe to the collective illusion that we all own our own warbirds.
What I can get onboard with however, is the enjoyment of flight, which I think transcends generations. With H&S spoiling the practical demonstrations of physical theories from school through university, hobbies like this provide an avenue for parents to show how things learnt at school apply in the real world (battling the 'I'm never going to use this' mentality). Someone else mentioned landing vertically in wind. A few weeks ago I bought and flew my first model with flaps. Watching something with such a size and weight move through the air at slower than walking pace gave me a satisfaction that comes along rarely.
Mustn't forget the social aspect too - for those of us still working, and I imagine we're the minority, the hobby is a reason to leave the house. When your existence consists of work/shop/cook/sleep/TV, the hobby can gain members if it can reach those frustrated minds.
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Radiolink?
in General Radio Discussion
Posted
That's me (!) - Touchscreens on sytems like Spektrum are common sense and mostly plain English with full length words, coded by English-speakers so that contractions are recognisable. Radiolink (can't speak for OpenTX Radiomaster) is the opposite end of the spectrum for useability. Sure there's a screen, sure it's computerised - but it's a pig for quick and predictable adjustments.