hotspur

January 5  2011  As it looks likely now that my copy is not going to be delivered, I am asking that a replacement copy is sent out to me now. I do not think that a refund is a suitable remedy while copies must exist with the printer.   I understand that it is not the fault of the RCME. However I would still like to see my copy, and the shop has gone Old Mother Hubbard.   It really is not good enough and the Royal Mail, or whoever, should stand up and admit that they can not perform   Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 05/01/2011 11:52:08 Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 05/01/2011 11:53:18

I have just had a birthday card postmarked 7 Dec. from Wigan. That works out at less than 2 miles per day. & downhill to boot   Where does the RCME come from ? So I can work out when it too is likely to arrive, while applying the uphill factor. Maybe I could stroll down there and collect it !   I bet it comes with the Feb issue.

Surprise, surprise. Plenty of junk and bills, but no RCME through my letterbox.   Postman says he delivers all in his box . Sorting office say all cleared by them. Just have to get one from the newsagent then. Never mind, it's all going to be privatised soon. Strange though that Giant Cod stuff comes the next day !   "When all the impossibles are eliminated, what remains.................................."

steve webb giant cod hangar9 xt40 mcgregor

It's 11/4/2010 and I still haven't seen any sign of my magazine. This happens every month. I might as well just get one as and when from the shop. I thought we were supposed to get them before they appeared in the shops.

SPOOK        or SPOOKY

NIMROD   seeing as ow the big ones are nearly finished.

Banshee   Bogey   Bolas   Bonito   Buzz

How about      BULLET

I suggest  BONANZA

Oh, what motor etc for a 600 glider of just over 1 kg.

Thanks for all that. I will go to BRC for motor/sc. deal.   What about charging Lipo batts. ? Is a built-in balancer needed ? Or can I start off with a simple one ?

I want to convert too. What would do for a power train for a 400 can motor 1.5m glider ?  (ie Cherub). Lipo; Sc, outrunner motor, props, etc.   Similarly,  for a 600 can motor  glider,  just to get a decent launch, rather than swooping earthwards, with a load of NiCd up front.   As I have only ever used Ni batteries and SCs, I suppose I am letting myself in for new chargers, balancers, motors , SCs  etc. Where is a decent source for this kit ?    

As a long time subscriber, why can I not access subscriber-only items ? No, I don't have my number until the next issue.

Owt fer nowt. as they say in Watford

Up in the air, where the trouble begins, from down on the ground the underside looks dark grey, so colour it dark blue because whatever you colour it , it looks grey when it matters. So, the darker , the better. Us humans do not see grey very well. Topsides, have some light colour (say yellow), with horizontal stripes from front to back in a contrasting colour (say red) or red and white. (or red/white and blue). For the wing, it is similar, but sunburst (say red on yellow) on top will let you see which is up. Same for tail.  Nice sunburst on the fin/rudder will do. It helps if you can see it, although you still have to fly it.

Hi Phil My tray is a commercial one, but having seen one it is easy to make one from ply. It takes me all my time to do words, not yet up  to speed on pictures. All it is, is three pieces of eighth or so flat plastic and two bits of bike spoke. Imagine a little bed about 3.5" * 2" ,  The ends are fixed down  in fus and joined by two rails (spoke size) on which slides a plate just big enough to take two servos. One operates 2 pushrods, one to each elevator (elevon?) side , the other servo is attached by a short pushrod to the front end of the bed post and causes the slide to go back and forward carrying both servos. Move the aileron stick (or rudder if you prefer) and the tail works like an aileron. Move the elevator stick and the slide moves ,so just like an elevator. Alternatively, you could spend up to £10 on an electronic plug-in to do the same job, but us Luddites never learn. Do you know what you cut away at when a plan says ,"Cut the ailerons free " ? (ref Werewolf). David

Well, Phil I'm certainly no expert. However,  I've still got a V-tail glider which I fly with a Futaba Challenger (pre-computer) radio. The servo sits in a sliding tray which moves a short distance. You can buy or make the tray. In the case of this 'plane, two channel, the rudder is quite important. Not so much for an aileron model, for simple manoevering. David

Thankyou Andrew. I'll get the tracing paper david

Peter HELP How did/do you do the second half of the wing please ? Plan has only half, and it will be handed. Do I have to stick pins in and try from other side as I have been told ? It won't do the plan much good ,I think. Not a proper builder or any sort of draughtsman me.  David

Hi Phil  Ribs from plans There's got to be some method for those of us without access to non inkjet prints. (Print shop ?) Same for producing the other half of  the wing ( one half only) common on plans. (eg Werewulf) Same for cutting out fus sides etc. What is it then ? Without wrecking the plan. David

Phil Thanks for your response. Is That what we are supposed to do then. So it's down to a print shop near you. Maybe Peter Miller will know about the tail eh. David

Hi David I started with a PAW 249 which was great but took a bit of  starting (but that was likely me) and then an O.S. 25 which started fairly well ( better than diesel) and stills runs well despite crashes and being dug out of fields. Then I had an O.S. LA 40 which was a cracker, just prime it full (6 turns) and it started first go, with a finger. Wore it out, got it repaired and wore it out again . Bought another which stll runs beautifully and starts first time , every time. Going to put it in Werewulf, I hope. Ran them all, mostly on straight 20% castor. Now running a TT 46 Pro which was cheap, starts first go ( prime it well, 1 turn at low throttle, put starter battery on, one flick and away.It  has loads of power for my WM  LA Racer artf  (5% nitromethane fuel). I like it a lot. I had it attached to a new Silhouette, which dug itself a very deep hole in the field following the motor at full throttle, and the motor just disappeared into terrain. The Silhouette just disappeared into a (small) bucket. Dug up, boiled up, cleaned up, oiled up---runs a treat, never missed a beat and never cuts out. They're good aren't they. I prefer 4-strokes though. (for the sound). David

Hello David/Peter I realise I should know this , but I am trying to build Peter Miller's Werewolf,  and there is only one wing half on the drawing. What do others do to  make the second half , without destroying the plan some way.? How do you get the shapes onto the sheets of wood (formers , sides, doublers etc etc,) to cut them out ? One time, seems long ago, I copied a plan at work , turned it over and transfered the shape to the wood, but that is no longer available to me.  Someone said ,"Push pins in the line " , but the plan would not like it too much I think. Given all the plans in the mag., there has to be a proper method, hasn't there ? So, what is it please ? Werewulf.    Does the tail seat fit between the fus halves or on top of them ? No doubt I will hit other problems as I continue, but continue I will.

One more try. Nice looking model