Falcon1

Erfolg. Go down to your local plumbers store and get some flux used for drinking water pipes. (Copper ones obviously!!) It stores for ages and works a treat. (But remember to wash it off afterwards!) Cheers

Sorry Flanker, it had been a long day!  A good supply of real imperial wood is Balsa cabin in Maldon Essex. Real 1/16 not the metric equlivent (1.5 mm which is thinner) and they'll select and grade it for you as well if you ask them.  Not to detract from Grahams build, it's nice to see a decent bit of workmanship.....But. Major manufacturers all solder their switches, but they support them somewhere down the wire away from the solder joint to prevent flexing of the joint. I always crimp my servo connectors that I make up, but solder the switch's together ( what else but Multicore solder!) Used to mend Buccaneers myself (Fly Navy!) now I mend Boeings.  Remember: It's not a big job........ just a thousand small ones!

Theres a bit of pride and skill going in to this one. Very nice. It's refreshing to see the inside of an aeroplane under construction for a change rather than a shiny ARTF looking like an advertisment (even if the reviewer has had problems during the "assembly" but no pictures of the offending part) that appear in the model press these days. (Hint hint David!) I've had a Brian Taylor Bf 109E on the go for about 2 years but it's getting there! Although I fly a lot of ARTF's now the pride isn't there, I've spent the last 40 years building from kits and plans so I envy you in my time poor world (I mourned the day when it changed from the SMAE to the BMFA. Flying your creation was the iceing on the cake in those days) I still love to build from a pile of flat sticks when I get the chance! (Chris Golds drives me mad!!) Roll on retirement thats what I say!  Anyway that enough of me moaning! I do tend to agree with Doug on the switch soldering. It  would be much better to switch the red (or the black) only, and use both poles of the switch. that way you build in some redundency. It's also sometimes better to use clear heatshrink so you can inspect the soldered joint from time to time. (It will always break at the end of the solder thats wicked up the copper wire.  PS you wouldn't need to worry about the aerial wire if you were on 2.4Ghz! 

I'm in Singapore at the moment and the local model shop is selling the 46AX for £62!So I don't think Ripmax are giving to much away! How about an OS 160FX for £157!!! Shame I've been all electric the last 10 years.