Steve Bentley

Posted by Dave Bran on 22/04/2014 06:17:25: Posted by Bill_B on 15/04/2014 12:56:52: There is only one Radio for serious glider pilots, Multiplex. But then who wants to be serious....................its supposed to be fun................. I had difficulty with this poll, since I use Futaba, Spektrum, Taranis, Planet, etc, etc, all regularly, and some days almost equally. I was on MPX (35mhz), and had to make a decsion when it came to the radio I'd go with for 2.4Ghz because of the incompatibility, but also features that are glider friendly..I looked at them all, MPX included...and have gone for a Graupner MC20. It's really quite a bit of kit.

Sorry to be the heretic, but why should 2.4 be the 'way to go'? I almost did, but instead bought new the Multiplex Cockpit SX. Why? Because basically the Spektrum DX7 isn't close to the spec of the SX. It cost another almost as much again as the SX, and isn't without issues. 35mhz, is proven and reliable, the IPD Rx the SX comes with is a doddle to set up (crystal free!). So why would I go for 2.4? No-one I've spoken to in our club has had a plane shot down due to interference on 35mhz on the slope and field, the one or two who have gone for 2.4 have done it for indoor flying.

I'll stick my t'uppance worth in if i may? I recently bought a foam glider thats been making something of a name from a very well known German manufacturer who also make the radio gear. The upshot is that myself and others have experienced 'released in flight' wings, a result in my opinion of the wing retaining system they use. However, others have not had the problem, some have modified before flying being not convinced of it's ability to do what was intended. I feel that this is unacceptable, the 'official' stance is the manufacturer without actually stating they think it might not work for everyone; suggest that the system can be modified with judicious application of a file. I find this totally unacceptable, and an abdication of their responsibilities. A worse case scenario (bearing in mind, the glider concerned has a powered option) a wing or both wings detach rendering the control surfaces inopperable (due to the 'positive' method of the servo plugs between fus and wing root) the now uncontrollable projectile then aims at whatever and kills someone, the flyer being unable to do a damn thing but watch! I'm not being dramatic here, people do get hurt, thankfully not that often, but can you imagine how they must feel? The manufacturer of course can sit back and say 'Well it works for us'. Incidentally, before the USA distributor ships this very model, they modify each one, I don't know how, but it's done to them all.

I had a Cularis! The clip system isn't reliable in all cases. On mine the spars displaced and rendered the ailerons useless(the servo lead sockets 'click' in with the wings fully home). Down she came. several times. Until it wasn't wise to repair the damage any more-the spars came out and where the ends finished in the fus tubes, put too much stress in the tubes and they sheared straight across on the right side. I still have the wings, and when I get round to getting another fus I'll use a eye bolt and rubber band method of retaining the wings.But it flies well, forgiving, easy to land with crow brakes. I doesn't look like a foamy glider when in the air and only really close up on the ground, I painted the under surface of the wings black part way for orientation.

Hi Gary, I was going to get one (apparently few and far between and the waiting list is long!). But a guy I know has just sold his to me. Two months old. He's built it up and modified it to a high standard.. (look on rcmf.co.uk and rcgroups.com for threads).. But I'll give a brief overview. The wings when at rest have prominant anhedral (droop down)but don't worry! They're fine in flight. The cross piece carbon tube in the fus is rubbish as supplied, so get a 'proper' carbon tube, and reinforce it with a piece of hard wood (beech wood) across the fuz and under the tube.This will take a lot out of the droop, and also support the tube better. The rear of the fus is filled with expanding foam-this is seen as almost essential!However, this means the closed loop system for the rudder is redundant, so a snake needs to be inserted (filling the remaining closed loop holes in the tail).. BUT, the most important thing is the 1/64th ply (approx 10mm sq) inserted under the rear of the stabiliser. If you don't you'll be sticking in too much up trim! Be also aware a twist in the fus at the tail is common!! But rectified with a heat gun and holding the twist until cool (not too much to melt the paint!). As for flying, it needs speed, lost of it, high aspect ratio and narrow chord dictate a minimum windspeed of about 10mph to be sure of penetration. But apparently it won't tip stall, it simply falls out of the sky as a whole with low airspeed! C.g I've seen varies between 45-50mm, but I guess that will depend on preferances. Hope you're succesful. Halfords appliance paint is good for cocering too.. One more thing DON'T oveerr tighten the pinch grub screws on the incidence rods, or the locaters will rip out of the wings on a heavy landing. Just nip them up and tape the join with white insulating tape.. All the best.