seecomber

Can anyone tell me how to remove three largish pop-up type adverts which have become a permanent feature of my screens.Try as I might I cannot get rid of exortations to buy an upgraded Tundra or enjoy free shipping on orders over $50. Pop-up remover is on but they will not go. I cannot believe the Chinese nation has chosen just me to suffer this attack.HELP!!

Success!!! I decided to follow the ED`s advice and measure the ring gap,if neccesary removing a fraction.Examination revealed on the first engine that the gap seemed more than adequate.However I took the opportunity to de-glaze the cylinder more thoroughly with wet and dry as the initial deglazing I did was a bit over- cautious.Upon re-assembly the motor held over 10,000 rpm without overheating or stopping. Similar treatment on the second motor was equally successful. I assume the improved oil access caused by the wet and dry honing improved the lubrication. Thanks to all for your invaluable advice.

john davies 8 I assume that having done as you suggest I would then measure the gap with feelers.This seems a practical approach to a job which could be difficult without special equipment..It would give me a rough idea of the size of the gap. Jon Harper Precisely my own view so after a couple of tankfuls of running in I put one engine in a Magnatella.It took off OK if a bit underpowered but after five minutes flight cut out and I had to land dead stick.I have decided to put anSC52 in the Mag. but still have two unreliable OS48`s on my hands! Thank you both for your advice.I will measure the gap and de-glaze one motor and see how I get on.

Thank you for your various replies.I think I can answer all the queries with a single reply. New liners were not used.Books on the subject(Bill Burkumshaws) suggest at least one ring replacement is usually possible without new liners.They are also expensive! When the motors stop they do so suddenly and noiselessly,no spluttering,change in speed or forewarning.There is no stiffness or resistance to turning over immediately after stopping. If run over-rich the motors cannot make top revs but will continue to run the tank out.(revs about 7-8000) The liners were not de-glazed.Is this crucial? If so I will strip one motor down and de-glaze with fine wet and dry as reccommended. The new rings were pattern rings(Gaviscool) I am unsure how to check the gaps but as both motors were re-ringed with pattern rings from the same source and show the same symptons this could be a pertinent factor..

I recently fitted new rings in a pair of OS 48 F/S engines which were showing signs of wear.Neither engine would tick over at acceptable low revs.I also took the opportunity to regrind the valves. Despite prolonged running on a rich mixture neithe motor is able to run for a prolonged period at top revs in excess of 9ooo without coming to an abrupt halt which I believe is seizing up due to overheating..Ironically both motors will tick over forever at low revs. Can anyone suggest a reason for this reluctance to run at full revs other than the tightness of new rings which I feel should have run in by now.. Both motors are mounted in test stands with an ample flow of air,11x6 props and a reasonably rich mixture.

After consulting with your goodselves I took the newer of my re-ringed motors(OS48) down and honed the bore with a small motor car type brake cylinder hone as a glaze buster.I used only a few up and down passes with modest pressure. to remove the glaze.The motor still runs but at 10,000 rpm and a rich mixture it`s still inclined to cut out suddenly and I suspect is overheating on its test stand. but I have no heat measuring equiptment to check this.It ticks over at low revs and up to about 8000 very smoothly but the peak revs if sustained(a minute or two) bring it to an abrupt halt. Will further running- in solve the problem?.What other causes could their be.I have ground the valves and set the tappet clearances whilst cold.Can anyone suggest another reason for overheating other than the hot weather!

Cuban8 I replaced the ring on the older engine because it would not tick over although it was fine at high revs but it could not run slow enough for landing.The second motor suddenly lost compression but regrinding the valves solved that problem.A simple job but one often overlooked.I subsequently fitted a new ring because I had one although in retrospect I might have better left well alone!

Thank you Steve, Pete and Stevo,.I did not de-glaze the liners,do you think it is vital?After a bit of running in,two tankfulls,the older motor runs fine.I have just done the newer one and it runs a bit hot even with a rich mixture but has had little fuel through it so far. I could use a hone on it,the type used on car brake cylinders,do you think this will be OK?Will fine wet and dry be better? Stevo I got the rings from Gaviscool on EBay.Who told me about him?You did! On this Forum a week or two ago. Many thanks,you saved me a total of £30.

I recently fitted new rings on my two OS Surpass 48 four strokes.I did not renew the liners. How long should I run them in? Is it a matter of running them in a test stand until they can run at peak revs,say 10,000.One of them,the newer one,is inclined to run hotter than the other at the moment.

Thanks chaps,they look just the job and price.

Does anyone know where spares for older OS four strokes are obtainable? In particular I need new piston rings for a 48 Surpass which is no longer available. I am trying Justengines.

This new(to me)make of glow engine now appears in HK`s list.They are made in Taiwan,smaller sizes and are slightly more expensive than ASP engines. Does anyone know anything about them?

Can anyone tell me what is the difference(apart from the obvious!) between digital and analog servos. When would analog servos be desireable or necessary to instal and why. I ask because my Seagull Pioneer states analog servos should be installed but gives no specific reason why. Are they tougher,stronger,more tolerant of higher voltages or merely more expensive? I would appreciate constructive comments.

Motorvation in Leicester does this sort of work.Google his site and EMail him.Wish you luck.I have his EMail details but in my modelling workshop and it`s all locked up for the night.

I built an E Pioneer using a HK3730 motor(mainly because it was so cheap at $13) and at 1000Kv seemed about right with HK`s own 4S LiPo at about $13 each. The model flew well and easily if a little overpowered but throttled back it was great to fly and the extra power(11x7 prop)was really useful for modest aerobatics and aborted landings. I used plastic geared digital servos from HK for the ailerons having lost faith in the HI Tek plastic geared HS81`s I have fitted in other `planes and which have stripped in the past.The small metal geared HiTec servos are also very expensive I used other HK non digital metal geared at the tail end and nose wheel. In the process of a very routine flight the model nose- dived from about 50 feet and the fuselage front end was destroyed. I put it down to pilot error at the time because the only detectable wrong was a stripped servo on one of the not too badly damaged wings. Nothing else seemed to have failed and it seemed more than likely the servo stripped in the prang. I was so impressed with the Pioneer I have bought another and am in the process of assembling it.I propose using HK TGS90S metal-geard servos(non digital) all round. One item I did notice whilst assembling the wings is that the pre-drilled holes for the aileron horns are seriously out of line with the servo arm making the aileron push rod at quite a sharp angle to the horn.Usually they are designed to be straight when the servo is centred and I propose to re-position the servo horns to align them better and get the push rods in a straight line when the servo is centred i.e. at neutral. I seem to recall my previous model suffered from the same defect to a lesser degree and it may have led to the unfortunate demise of that model which curved uncontrollably into the ground,the push rod on the stripped servo having jammed in the full up position. I appreciate that the leghth of the servo arm affects the angle at which the push rod operates and my servo arms are only about 3/4 inch long . Has anyone else experienced this problem? I would be interested to know which servos other builders have used successfully and also why Seagull specify digital servos which might be more accurate and possibly quicker but otherwise do not seem to have any great advantage.