QUADDRA

4 of 4 Hi Simon Chaddock, Yes totally agree and I did just that, my transmitter screams and shouts at you if you don’t set throttle to minimum on startup so I was forced into safety from the start. What I didn’t do was the basics and calibrate the esc to the transmitter. My bad assuming its all done in the little magic box of tricks. Purely an oversight by myself. Thank you for your help and joining the conversation Simon. Cheers.   Hi Martin Harris, Its possible that the help Ive received in this thread may work for you too. Hope so. Also hoping for some good thermal and slope soaring conditions this year. Best of luck Martin.   John Roberts, I see. Maybe worth moving the throttle trim down, might get a more abrupt stop. I will have a go. Just need that clement weather I was talking about.   Martin Harris, If enough of us wish for perfect flying conditions do you think the combined effort will work? I too, am hoping this fix will also remove that reverse thrust effect I’ve been experiencing..   Everyone, apologies for the very delayed response, life has a tendency to get in the way of fun at times. Thanks again to all of you, really appreciate the help. Edited By QUADDRA on 11/05/2018 21:48:42

3 of 4 Hello John Roberts 9, Yes you and me in the same boat with HK kit but to be honest I blame myself with this one because the first thing you should always do with new kit is to calibrate the throttle. You may very well find it beneficial trying out what I did. As Ken said take care and either remove props or secure the fuselage and keep hands well away from the prop. Turn on your transmitter. Set your throttle trims and end points back to stock. Put throttle to maximum then power up esc. ESC should go into program mode and you’ll here it start a series of beeps. You want to listen to the first set of four beeps the same. I disconnected the battery and reconnected a few times just to make sure I was hearing the correct sequence. So on the first sequence of four equal beeps I throttled to zero, probably on the third of the four beeps. The ESC will recognise this command set the esc calibration with your transmitter. Thats it! Try powering to zero and the brake should be working now. I also found that my maximum throttle chucked out a considerably larger amount of power so got myself a bonus. Its something we always used to have to do before all these computers and program cards and I guess its something we shouldn’t just assume that everything is already setup corectly. Hope, that, your helping me, has also helped you John. Cheers continued —>

2 of 4 Thanks Chriss, Dick, Mal & MattyB, between you all I think we’ve sorted it.   Hi Piers , thank you for your advice. It would seem that its my brain thats faulty not the program card. I am totally with you Piers, a better card would have solved this from the start. The wheel is obviously a work of a cost cutting exercise. You do get a beep from the esc but really just confirming its received instructions from the card. I use an ORCA program card with my cars and it is a lot more comprehensive but also a lot more money. Also thanks for the youtube link, very helpful, cheers.   Hi Ken, Thanks for the very good advice, I really must avoid getting those carol singers fingers with my voice. Seriously, yes I took care. I set the fuselage up facing away from me, elevated and secured so it doesn’t fly off on its own. Also, I always set startup to soft, it just about gives you a chance. Safest and best practice is always going to be remove props. Cheers Ken   continued ——> Edited By QUADDRA on 11/05/2018 21:47:39

1 of 4   Hello, finally, back to it…   Hi Chris, Thank you for your “switch 2 wires” suggestion, which I really liked, as it would have been a nice quick fix. Notice I said “would have”. Unfortunately, for me, it was not the quick fix, well when I knew it was, read on and you’ll see.   Hi Dick, You put me on the right path Dick. As you say esc end points cant be programmed with the Hobbyking program wheel, not to my knowledge. I thought why not simply dial in negative end points on the Aurora. 2% nothing, 5% nothing, 8% somethings happening, its not an abrupt stop but it is certainly slowing. Eventually dialled down ESC on Aurora to -40% and sub trim - 100% Now we have some braking. I’d say about 80%. I believe you were spot on with the ESC having a small gap in off and brake on thank you very much for your advice Dick, five stars.   Thanks for the instructions link Mal it has been helpful.   MattyB Ive checked and the program card although quite limited is compatible with the esc. But, you got me thinking when you said maybe I should follow manual programming of the ESC with the transmitter. That and Dicks comment about end points. So found instructions from tinternet regarding throttle calibration and success, not perfect but definitely more like the braking that I was expecting. Also thinking why didn’t I do this from the start. I always used to do this with other kit as a matter of course. We live and learn. continued—-> Edited By QUADDRA on 11/05/2018 21:47:58

Hello all, Hi Chris (McG 6969) That looks like a sensible answer and the easiest to test, First on the mornings agenda. I’ll keep you informed and thank you for your advice. Hi Dick (Dickw) Interesting, makes sense. yes keeping it all pretty basic so basic 30 amp HK esc and Basic and to be honest not a bad idea is the simple HK program wheel. I see what you mean. I maybe incorrectly assumed HK was sending me compatible items as I requested their input from the start explaining what I was doing and specifically requesting compatible everything. I also expected everything to arrive at the same time but from the arrival of the first part to completion of order can be counted in weeks. Lots of weeks! I will try the easiest fix first from Chris above. Hopefully its as simple as that, “and now I’m thinking why didn’t I think of that first". If that fails Ill move on to your solution. As far as I am aware the esc being basic can only be programmed with wheel or transmitter throttle stick. I will explore and update with my findings. Thanks Dick for your advice. Hi Mal, Thanks for the link, Ill have a looking the morning. Im a little confused on your instructions (it doesn’t take much these days ! ) Setting the scene: I have everything wired and connected then disconnect the esc and connect to program card with jumpers all set as specified & with brake on. ESC signifies instructions good with an audible beep. Re-connect to receiver and test. This is where I find theres no change, still not working. Decided, as a test to switch program card jumpers so setting now reads brake off. After going through the rest of the settings and powering back up there is still no brake.. Thanks Mal, Hoping Chriss answer is the answer otherwise I can see me struggling. Hi MattyB, So your telling me that HobbyKing has possibly sold me compatible items that aren’t compatible, no they wouldn’t do that, would they? Well it would seem that I have a busy morning ahead of me, Programming an esc with the transmitter will be a new experience for me. Im sure ill be keeping your final words in mind, “you only need to be successful once to set the brake” whilst I battle with the esc. Thank you Matty, Ive got lots to test. Ill update with my results. Many thanks everyone for all your help, really appreciate it. Lets see what happens.

Multiplex EG   Turnigy L2215J-900 brushless motor Hobbyking 30A ESC 3A UBEC 32mm alloy folding prop spinner TGS Precision folding prop 10x6 Hobbyking ESC program wheel   Hi I have an fairly old Multiplex EasyGlider that I decided to update to Lipo, new ESC & brushless Motor. All done and working well except motor braking. Quite a pain with the EG. Without motor braking the props tend to continue spinning which acts like a bloody great air brake. Also not ideal when landing as the EG lands on its belly so no room for spinning blades. I contacted Hobbyking and they of course had never heard of this issue but were good enough to send a replacement ESC. Thought that would be the cure. Just finished soldering connectors and ran a test but still no good, Throttle off but the prop still spins before eventually slowing to a stop. I’ve gone over everything with the programming wheel time and time again but still spins freely before finally stoping Program wheel setting Timing-Auto/ Rotation-Reverse/ batt-prot 3.2/ Prolectype-reduce/ brake on/ start soft/ battery setting to lipo/ Any ideas what the issue is and how to fix it. Cheers Edited By QUADDRA on 26/04/2018 01:32:22 Edited By QUADDRA on 26/04/2018 01:33:26

Hi Nigel, Thanks for your help, I'll head on over to BARCs Cheers

Hello, So I'm trying to help a relative who has no access to Internet, hope someone out there can help. He has for some time been in possession of an all glass glider, apx 3 meter wingspan called a Javelin. That's about all we know because there is no paperwork and no details on the box. What I have gathered from a look around the net is that it could possibly be from a company that no longer exists called Soaring Composites. Not completely positive about this but hopefully it's something to go on. So he has muddled through and has pretty much all sorted but setting of C.G. So could anyone help with the location that c.g should be set, at least initially.Hopefully someone will come back saying that they have/had one of these and the perfect c.g is......   Edited By QUADDRA on 17/09/2017 22:17:40

Hi Frank, I think our paths have crossed before, you probably helped out with another question. The multiplex heron looks like a nice glider. A friend has two Multiplex Cularis that fly well and look great in the air. I was surprised to see that it's been discontinued. Thank you for your reply and ESC recommendation. I'd prefer to get everything from the same store to reduce costs if possible. I need another lipo for my 1/10 F1 and want to get another Turnigy nano-tech ultimate as I've found them, actually a number of us have found them to be really good value. Still, I may not have a choice if Hobbyking don't have what I need in the UK. My biggest issues are getting components that are suitable, fit my old Easyglider and are compatible with each other. Also trying to keep costs as low as possible as it is an old Easyglider and I also have a big spend pending as pretty keen on switching over from 35 to 2.4ghz and as this is going to start adding up when I replace all five receivers that I'll need. Hope the weather improves and you can get your Heron into the air. Cheers Frank.

I have seen Multiplex 54mm Folding Spinner for 4mm Shaft £13.99 on the net that they say is designed for the Easyglider and is white so at a distance when gliding is reasonably hidden and looks like a glider, as it should. Quite nice. Would still need props. Can you get white props? I know it's important to get the right props so that would need advice and of course if I actually went for the Multiplex spinner I'll need a motor with a shaft that's 4mm. All extra shipping as I can't get a Multiplex spinner from Hobbyking. Just a shame that Hobbyking don't have the motor & folding prop in the Uk warehouse. Maybe they just haven't got round to getting back to me. You'd think they would want my money. So again Thank you Piers  

The items from UK🇬🇧 Warehouse £4.94 2-4 days And as you say extra for items from HK🇭🇰 Warehouse £4.57 14-39 days and maybe more for customs. I think prices are very good but delivery in a possible 39 days is not ideal. For an extra £11.99 I can have express delivery and get it in up to 10 days. Still not ideal but better than 39 days. When items from HK are under £20 value £11.99 seems a lot for delivery. Possibly still another 10 days. I have asked them to come up with similar items from Uk 🇬🇧 warehouse but still no reply so probably no compatible replacements. A pain

Folding Propeller W/Alloy Hub 40mm/3mm Shaft 10x6 (1pc) HK🇭🇰 Warehouse £7.21 HobbyKing 20A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller UK🇬🇧 Warehouse £8.55 Your recommendation looks better. KEDA 33-28L 1000Kv Brushless Outrunner 3S 100W HK🇭🇰 Warehouse £12.55 and two x Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 35C Lipo Packs UK🇬🇧 Warehouse £11.16 HobbyKing Programming card for BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller UK🇬🇧 Warehouse £2.95

Hi Piers, Thanks for your ESC recommendation. I've searched the web and found some details about the ACE 30 ESC and from what I've seen there's no brake. Actually think the ESC is on its way out as it won't fire up the motor but it is still giving me servo control, luckily for me. Still I can't complain as it's got to be the best part of 15 years old. So just as you've mentioned, I have been looking on Hobbyking. So much choice. So I asked for their advice on components to retrofit the Easyglider. This is what they said:

RC Plane Flyer, Hi, and yes, I've tried the rubber band with varying success and exactly as you said UV takes its toll. The band only lasted a few weeks. Seems a bit quick for UV to have done that so fast so I assume the stress of being spun also had a hand in its end. So looking for a replacement band just to get me by. Thank you for your reply.

Hi Denis, Thanks for your reply. They may use this for quadcopters now but when I purchased it 15 or so years ago there were no quadcopters. That's when I bought the glider, batteries, motor, servos & ESC etc, all at the same time. I literally said I'll have the Multiplex Easyglider and everything that I need to get me in off the ground.. Sometime before that I had purchased the Multiplex Cockpit MM transmitter. I was impressed with the TX so the easyglider was a natural purchase to get me flying on or off the slope. So if there is no stop on the ESC is there another way of forcing the prop to retract?

Hi I am having issues with folding prop not folding on Multiplex Easyglider, continuing to spin after engine off and acting like a huge air break. I've looked but can not find any way to turn engine breaking on on the ESC so I expect breaking is not a feature. I've gone into stall and thrown the glider around after engine shut down with varying success in folding the prop. Any ideas how to fold the prop with an ESC like this that doesn't appear to have the breaking feature?

So this is how every program used to start when creating a new model, line in centre. Now this keeps happening, at set up of Glider & Acro. Strange as I have only previously programmed Glider, never Acro